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well from what i understand i had someone take a look at them, and they told me they were aftermarket, i just dont know what they are, so i might have to do a little more inspection to see if there worth welding or just checking out some from the link, thanks again for all the help

ooooooooh them are a little more on the exspensive side ive been seeing them mostly for sale between the 200-400 range, but thank you very much for the link.

Pretty close to factory mines bigger injectors, bigger turbo,

Ive heard from multiple shops that its a waste to get them welded itll just weaken them and thell rebreak

so ive noticed my exhaust headers are getting old and have cracks on both driver and passenger side, so just gonna buy a new pair. so are these a pain to get off? and if so is there any tricks? and any recommendations on replacements? :) greatly aprreciated

yeah, im not a electrician so when i look at wiring diagrams it doesnt really make much sense to me, i kinda get it, but i dont wanna end up cutting something important

hello :) ive been slowly but surely fixing my 87 GN, for about 3-4 yrs now, alot of new stuff and alot of new stuff to go, but im getting tired of the mess of wiring the previous owners had left...is there a way or a guide that i can strip away all the unncecary stuff to get it to as close to...

now i feel dumb lol, i litterally have 1 of those sitting in the back seat of my car didnt even think about it...lol but i messed up and shattered my horn plate pressuring it back on...*facepalm*

lol silly question, i just fixed my steering column igntion problem putting it back together the pressure plate, which is a QUICK easy way to press it back down, i dont have a special tool and ive done this before just dont remember how i did it lol, thanks for any help

thanks shadow come monday ill give him a ring and see whats going on and turboburick now it goes to the start position but theres no tension on the key itself it goes all the way threw the movement just no tension on the key so you have to click it back it doesnt do it itself.

well hopefully i can figure out another way to start it.. :(

last fall i stored my car for the winter...no issues...i go to pull it out this spring..grab my keys throw the battery in it turn the ignition first click unlocks steering wheel second click engages third click.....nothing just smooth..no tension on the key nothing....i started tearing the...

yeah thr powermaster brake unit Sent from my GT-N7100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

*Update* Engine swapped...checked engine when popping the postivie cable back on and off with ignition on the switched powermaster engine clicks.....brakes lights still on...fuses are not blowing....brakes at about 10-20 percent....brakes have not been bleed? will the brake light be on if...

im gonna pull the motor off mu old powermastet unit and do a swap see if shell work worth try Sent from my GT-N7100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

that makes me sad..... thanks for the advise just bought this unit lol Sent from my GT-N7100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

hey guys back with brake issues, been working on em for a couple days now...i think im making progress hopefully....lol but now for some reason when ever i start the car up i have visually seen it eat 3 30amp fuses....just pop em immedaitly....anyone have any idea why this is

it was when the ignition was on. i had the key ans was tapping it with a wrench. or do you have to do that as soon as someone turns rhe key Sent from my GT-N7100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

i dont know. i cant hear it when i turn the key initially theres like a 3 to 4 second primising aound from the engine but sont know if its the pm dont think anything else makes thay noise Sent from my GT-N7100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app

ok reading threw my manual here, i think i might need to primse the system now its telling me to remove the booster tube.....and on the illistator breakdown...theres no booster tube...or brass nut....