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Update: I Fixed it. I really wish I could say for sure what it was or that I found the so called "smoking gun" but I didnt... What I did was double and triple checked all of the pins on the ECM and harness pushed the connectors in as hard as I could, then I re-seated the chip the cal-pack and...

Update: I've actually made progress on this issue. I found my old stock ign. module and coilpack and put it in, it didnt fix the problem but it made it less severe. after this i noticed that when ever I hit a good bump in the road that the issue was popping up. I got the car back in the garage...

Update: Well its not the coil pack either but I did notice when I was pulling back into the garage that the IAC counts were over 60. I did the full reset on it jumping that ALDL pins, and got it to around 22 with the tps at .42. drove it around the block, after about ten mintues while at a stop...

Update: No good news though. I did double check and re tighten the positive cable at both ends. checked basically the whole engine harness and the ecm for loose wires, found nothing. bought a new Oxygen Sensor which made it idle better until it warms up and the issue starts anyway. still no...

I got chance to to look at the flat connector to the ignition module, some of the pins do move around a little bit. how do I go about tightening that up? I cranked down the center bolt as tight as I felt comfortable turning it. car still has the same symptoms though.

Hey guys, I need some direction here I don't really know what to look at on this one. Having an issue where once the car is fully warmed up (driven for about 20-30 minutes to where the oil pressure drops down at idle) it will start stalling out at cruise and idle. Its seems like a power loss...

The module is GM, I'm not sure on the coilpack I've had to replace a few over the years, There is a 4 digit code stamped on the side its says either 5508 or 550B

Still for sale

bump, any reasonable offer considered. OBO

bump. open to offers. OBO

I have directscan version 1.5 with all the cables. Havent used it in a few years, upgraded to powerlogger. $60 shipped

I have the original Grille off of my 84, could use some cleaning up, a couple fins are cracked. $50 plus shipping

I have An analog cluster that came out of my 84, the odometer doesn't work but everything else did including trip meter, boost and tach, its been sitting in a box for 5 years to be honest. $50 shipped if it will help you out

Like the title says, was in my car running great just this spring. I went with tr6 ignition. have paypal, can post pics if needed

I have a new Napa one still in box part # 38-5129 if that fits your application. I bought it for my 84 but it turned out I needed a resevior aswell. $20 plus shipping if you still need one

cant tell it wont go into boost, what I do know is that from a cruise at around 15hg vacuum to 0psi it will rise about 3lbs of pressure. I will try unhooking the wastegate and run it to see what happens. i filed and tightened all the bolts and nuts to the coilpack as a last resort but it didnt...

Fuel pressure doesn't drop when I get on. I Have a pressure gauge in the dash, its being monitored at all times.

Update: still having the same issue I got a log of it acting up if someone can look at it and let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary. heres what I've done so far. new plugs, new coilpack, and I upgraded to a heated o2 sensor no change in symptoms.

Thanks for hijacking my thread.. just kidding don't worry about. Whats your fuel pressure at? They always say start with the easy stuff, I'd turn it down a couple pounds and see if that helps. As long as there's no KR your alright.

About another 100 miles on the car. hasnt had that same problem again yet... although it did just throw a code 45 today for the exhaust being too rich now... changed the plugs after the compression test above so I'll pull them tommorow and see what they look like, might replace the o2 sensor...