Annual pull the motor day today. Update 7/03/16

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BARRACUDA1968

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2011
This is the 3rd year in a row I've pulled this motor.

Year 1 motor ate itself up. It happens, previous owner detonated the shit out of it.

Year 2 had a stroker 109 built for it. Lifted the heads the first time I put my foot to the floor. Motor had too much compression for the tune and fuel. Champion irons were shaved to 39cc chambers and not checked during build.

Year 3 fixed the year 2 issue with aluminum heads and cometics. It's the leakiest motor I've ever owned. The head gaskets are seeping oil. Leaking is too much to live with.

I decided to pull it so I could do a better job installing head gaskets. I've had a lot of practice so I can get the motor out in 5 hours. I plan to do all my own work this time. I've wasted thousands of dollars hiring other people.

I'm not sure what head gaskets I'm going to run this go around?? I'd like to run the cometics but I'm not going to risk it again.

I may also go from head bolts to studs.

When I find some motivation I'll get it tore down and keep everyone posted.

 
I hope not just the head gaskets. I can go from a running car to having both gaskets replaced and running in less then 8 hours. Thats counting lunch and BS'ing and I've only done in a few times
 
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Use head studs, nothing to even think about on the question of bolts VS. studs.
 
robzombie said:
Use head studs, nothing to even think about on the question of bolts VS. studs.
Click to expand...

I was supposed to have studs the last time I had the motor out. I showed up to pick up the motor and I had bolts instead. Decided to just go with it. I'll use them this time.
 
I'm also putting a motor together and was considering MLS gaskets and even have a couple sets on hand.

Like you though I'm not up for a car that marks it territory everywhere it goes and am hesitant about using them because even though I've both read sides of the coin as to whether they will leak or not and at least ten different methods with even more results I'm just not in the mood to do this twice.

I've run low tens with plain jane 9445's and only had issues and blew one when I detonated under high boost. So I may just use them again but still haven't decided.
 
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nothing wrong with bolts. Studs can be a PITA at times. I have studs in one motor and bolts in another.
 
I've read a few issues with studs leaking etc so I'm a little hesitant to go down that road. I'll make a final decision when the time comes.
 
Boost231 said:
nothing wrong with bolts. Studs can be a PITA at times. I have studs in one motor and bolts in another.
Click to expand...

The problem I have with bolts is that depending on what sealer you use it will throw off the torque value and also if you do have to remove a head you have to go through the process over again where with studs they can be put in and sealed properly without worrying about torque values being off.

I put my studs in the block with sealer and walk away for a couple days and then put heads on knowing that the sealer is set up and I won't have any coolant leaks from there. Also if you do use bolts and have to re-torque later you will break the sealer loose and introduce a possible leak.

Like everything out there, there are a hundred ways to do something. I just stick with what works for me.

Hence the hesitation on the MLS gaskets. I have used them on my diesels with great success but after reading the horror stories on the 3.8 Buick it scares me to go through it and have to do it again.
 
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BARRACUDA1968 said:
I've read a few issues with studs leaking etc so I'm a little hesitant to go down that road. I'll make a final decision when the time comes.
Click to expand...
Clean the threads in the block with a tap. Use loctite 545 hydraulic thread sealant for 100% leak free success.
 
BARRACUDA1968 said:
I was supposed to have studs the last time I had the motor out. I showed up to pick up the motor and I had bolts instead. Decided to just go with it. I'll use them this time.
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I mean, MY GOD! Why do so many board members have these problems?! Who the hell did you take this engine too?
I feel a sharp jab in the heart every time I hear a Buick brother tell one of these stories. Of course, I'm sure it's worse for you.

BTW, Don't tell me who this guy was. It just doesn't matter.
 
Also make note that ARP ultra torque grease (the new standard) is different than the old standard moly grease. Ultra torque grease has its own torque specs.
 
BEATAV8 said:
Also make note that ARP ultra torque grease (the new standard) is different than the old standard moly grease. Ultra torque grease has its own torque specs.
Click to expand...
Supposed to reduce "torque scatter". My first use was on the LST...Torqued to the specs, set for a day, went over them again..very little loss, & very close to being the same. Checked the 3rd time... zip diff.
ARP also has recommended their thread sealer. I use it.

BTW: WHEN CLEANING THREADS, DO NOT USE A COMMON THREAD TAP>>>THREAD CLEANING TAP, ONLY!

Back under my injector bench, waiting on engine parts....:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all the tips. I'm going to get a nice corner in the shop cleaned up and begin the tear down. My 2 issues I know of are the leaky head gaskets and my crank seal is leaking after 1500 miles. This is number 2 on the crank seal. I have an Earl Brown cover that I may sell and go to a TA Performance cover so if the seal fails again I don't have to remove the timing cover to fix it. I'm either very unlucky with these seals or somethings causing the failures. I'll be checking my balancer for any imperfections first. I'm running a .010 under chain so I'm a little short but I've been told these seals compensate up to .060.

I'm going to try and get the motor tore down this week. I'm leaning toward Felpro head gaskets this time. I need to go back through my numbers for compression ratio to figure out where I'm at but I believe we used a .039 Cometic to achieve 8.5 compression last year. I'll be asking for help there too because I get a different compression ratio depending on who's website you use.

Bore 3.830
Stroke 3.625
Deck clearance .007
Piston Dome volume -27
Head CC 49
 
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Look for a reason for the head gasket oil leak. You'd need a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges to check the straightness of the decks. Also look for any debris between the gasket layers.
 
I have the same oil seepage / coolant leak issue at the studs. I don’t believe I put sealer on the treads either - cant recall as it been 4 years ago. Leak is getting progressively worse. No mixing of the coolant and oil tho. Hopefully this is my problem as well. Just gotta find time to pull the engine now:rolleyes:
 
BARRACUDA1968 said:
I may also go from head bolts to studs.
Click to expand...
I have also run both and you should not have an issue with either.i think you should carefully go through you build strategy and maybe give a call to some of the more experienced turbo buick engine builders. im not trying to offend,i have seen some of your previous posts and i know these cars can get frustrating.
 
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