I'm on the road and pretty screwed

[WH1_T-Type]

When I dragged my WH1 to my dads place water got into the cab and onto the ECM and fried out a terminal point. Didn't do exaclty what yours is doing..but you could take a look at it. Water could have gotten into your cab through the heater box under the hood.

 

[Jerryl]

Well I'm not sure where the crank sensor is. Other than near the crank.

I'm stuck on the side of rt. 80 in Ohio at mile marker 89.3. I doubt I'll find an open shop today.

Crank sensor is on the DS, 90 deg/close to the crank, behind the pulley. There are 3 wires with a plug-in comming from it.
Can't miss it.

At least check for spark when it shuts down.
Either way, now is the time to narrow down the problem, so you can fix it later.

 

[dabobbo]

Allrighty, I just updated my wife that I prrrobably won't be home tonight. I was only able to get about 40 miles outside Toledo. I ain't making it to Cleveland the way the car is running. It's worse today than it was yesterday.

To review-i now only get about 4 or so miles and the car starts sputtering. Fuel pressure is ok, gague on the rail, new coil pack, ignition module, and maf sensor. Idle seems fine.

I pulled the ecm out and have it on the floor. I pulled off at exit 91 and I think I will head back to Toledo. I'd still like to try to get home today but that is looking less and less likely

Thanks guys!

 

[dabobbo]

Crank sensor is on the DS, 90 deg/close to the crank, behind the pulley. There are 3 wires with a plug-in comming from it.
Can't miss it.

At least check for spark when it shuts down.
Either way, now is the time to narrow down the problem, so you can fix it later.

thanks, ill look at that. I post slow on my phone, I mentioned above that I have idle. Just sputtering at throttle.

Oh and I forgot to mention earlier that I have directscan but neglected to bring my computer. (Grrr stupid)

 

[BlownV6]

I dont know much about the electronics and this may be stupid!! Next time it sputters , Loosen up your gas cap and see if there is a vacuum (sucking sound). I have had a number of different situations where the vent wasnt working and so the pump could not overcome the vacuum created in the tank. Sorry if its stupid - but try it. Good luck Mike

 

[Jerryl]

I dont know much about the electronics and this may be stupid!! Next time it sputters , Loosen up your gas cap and see if there is a vacuum (sucking sound). I have had a number of different situations where the vent wasnt working and so the pump could not overcome the vacuum created in the tank. Sorry if its stupid - but try it. Good luck Mike

GREAT idea!!

 

[TurboBuRick]

Sir, unplug your cam sensor with the motor running. That will put the system in batch fire.

Your ce light will come on. Don't worry about that. Drive the car and see if it cleared up.

 

[John Larkin]

Sorry to hear it did not work. Mine did exactly what yours is doing and that was the fix. Do you have the Directscan cable plugged into the ecm? That connector will also make the ecm goofy if it goes too far in. Remove it if possible.

 

[dabobbo]

Mike nothing is stupid right now. If you said I should dance naked around a burning tire i'd consider it.

So I don't know if it indicates anything, but I got about 2 good miles after stopping and releasing the pressure before it started sputtering again.

I'll try the cam sensor and when I get to toledo ill get some brake cleaner to try the crank sensor thing mentioned above.

 

[dabobbo]

I think we're onto something here. I unplugged the cam sensor and I just did 30 miles with no sputter.

2 questions - is it possible to limp it home like this keeping in mind I have 600 miles to go andif I can,will I need to plug the sensor into start the car? Say when I stop for gas?

 

[salvageV6]

You need it plugged in to restart the car.

I'd leave the thing running at the gas station if you could.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Fine to drive the car with the sensor unplugged.

Like SV6 said, if you shut it off, you will have to plug in to start the motor.

 

[dabobbo]

Ok, so now I get defeat from the jaws of victory. I think I have another problem. I was able to get about 100 miles down rt 80 when all of the sudden, with no warning, the car backfires and dies. I coast to the side of the road, reattach the cam sensor, and the car starts right up. I detach the sensor and take off, 2 or 3 miles later - same thing. Backfires, dies, and starts right back up. I think ill need to stop here for the night (I'm at a rest stop iin Broadview Heights, Ohio) and try to find a shop tomorrow and hope they are even slightly competent.

 

[TurboBuRick]

For sure you need is a new cam sensor cap but it's not easy to find. Been discontinued. You can still buy the complete sensor but can be pricey.There is a guy on the board selling some complete new ones for $125. Not going to do you much good now but if you can get home, it's an option.

What kind of module did you put on the car? AC/delco? Is original AC/Delco? Assuming it is, put the old one back on try running in batch fire again.

If it continues to act up, go for the crank sensor. Make sure the harmonic balancer is tight and non of the blades that go through the sensor are bent. I would still replace it and set the gap.

It will be hard to find a shop that knows anything about the car but you never know.

Good luck.

RL

You prolly went right by me on I80. You could have stopped by. Day late and a dollar short. :biggrin:

P.S. Make sure fuel pump is not cutting out. That could also cause the car to just die.

 

[gusszgs]

When she snuffs out, before you plug the cam sensor back in, maybe try disconnecting the ecm at the battery (orange wire) wait a bit then re-connect. Just a thought.

 

[dabobbo]

I've tried both MAF's and they both are the same. If I let the car sit for awhile it seems to run longer (with the cam sensor unplugged of course).

Is the crank sensor difficult to replace and adjust? All of my manuals are at home. I climbed underneath and took a look at it, I would just be worried about adjusting it.

Yeah, I was pretty much past you by yesterday. I just want to get home. I'm in a Holiday Inn in North Royalton, Ohio now. At least I know my car won't get stolen, they wouldn't get far.

 

[87geeinn]

Have you checked grounds on the back of the passenger side head, negative battery cable, and positive battery cable (to make sure it is not grounding out on pass. side manifold)?

 

[TurboBuRick]

I've tried both MAF's and they both are the same. If I let the car sit for awhile it seems to run longer (with the cam sensor unplugged of course).

Is the crank sensor difficult to replace and adjust? All of my manuals are at home. I climbed underneath and took a look at it, I would just be worried about adjusting it.

Yeah, I was pretty much past you by yesterday. I just want to get home. I'm in a Holiday Inn in North Royalton, Ohio now. At least I know my car won't get stolen, they wouldn't get far.

Setting the crank sensor is quite easy. Cut a cardboard strip off a permatex package or something similar and use that for a gauge.

Replacing it can be a pita. The new sensor will not work in a factory bracket. You have to replace it with a new style. Unlesss you get lucky and it already has the new bracket.

So whats the deal did you buy the car?

RL

 

[hesermon]

Sounds like my trip to Ohio last summer, tried every thing listed above, turn out to be the fuel filter. Car ran great for about 60 miles before dieing, then about 40 miles then about 20 miles. I tried the fuel filter as a "WTF" and drove the next 450 miles without a hitch.
Just a thought, good luck!

 

[dabobbo]

So whats the deal did you buy the car?

RL

No, my job moved me out to Wisconsin 3 years ago from New Jersey, and in March due to family reasons I had to move back. I drove it out there just fine 3 years ago. A friend was storing it for me in his garage.