Choice for axles for 9 second car

karolko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
I was wonderin gif i could get some opinions on what axle they like to use for a 9 second car.

I am running a ford 9", and at Bowling Green i saw some moser axles, but what about strange?

I will be running 31 spline axles, due to my detroit true trac. any opinions?


Adrian
 
so is it really going to come down to opinion or is there something that one offers that the other cannot.
 
Any aftermarket axle is much better than a 20+yr old stocker and will be NHRA compliant if c-clip elimitors are used (for 10 second and faster). The more splines the better, but of course they cost more. Go ahead and order the whel longer studs while you're at it - NHRA requires them with open lub nuts so the inspector can see the studs being engaged at least X # of threads.

Shirley you realize that any increase in spline count requires a change to the differential pumpkin to accept the same spline count. :cool:
 
Any aftermarket axle is much better than a 20+yr old stocker and will be NHRA compliant if c-clip elimitors are used (for 10 second and faster). The more splines the better, but of course they cost more. Go ahead and order the whel longer studs while you're at it - NHRA requires them with open lub nuts so the inspector can see the studs being engaged at least X # of threads.

Shirley you realize that any increase in spline count requires a change to the differential pumpkin to accept the same spline count. :cool:

Scott, i am running a ford 9" so c-clips are long gone :) I also have a aluminum center section, pinion support, 1350 yolk and all the bearings. I am simply missing the alxes and gears.

Are any of you running aftermarket gears? If so what brand and what gearing. I am running 28" tires and might move up to 30"

Adrian
 
the rearend in my car came out of a low 9 sec ride. it has 33 spline strange axles and a strange spool. i think nick micale was running 31 spline axles in his 9sec ride and one snaped not to long ago :eek:
 
At least 33 spline axles with a spool. If I had to do it again, I would go with 35 spline axles. Go with the taller tire.
At least 1/2" studs. Larger would be better. Again, if I had to do it over, I would have gone larger than 1/2".
 
Hey Don,

The problem for me is that i want to keep the thing really streetable, and thus have chosen to go with and buy the detroit true trac, which is a heli style posi, and the largest spline count is 31, thus my limitations. I could go with a true detroit locker, but that click click sound of metal on metal scares me.

Spools for the street seem too much and dangerous.

I have chosen to go with strange axles, as MW are very expensive last time i checked. I should ask Nick Micale if he did end up snapping a 31 spline axle.

Adrian
 
The question would be what type of 60' is anticipated. If you plan on going 1.40 or slower at full weight a 30 spline with a limited slip is adequate. If you plan on running into the 1.30's repeatedly id ditch the 8.5" and go for a 9" with 33 spline and a spool. Not worth throwing a lot a an 8.5" when you can have a much stronger setup when all you would be saving was the housing and brakes off the 8.5" only to have a weaker rear.
 
i am building up a 9" and i am expecting to do low 1.3's/high 1.20's. This thing is not going to hit the track very often, so it will not be seeing repetative abuse.

my rear end combo will be
ford 9"
strnge aluminum third member
strange axle 31 spline
detroit true trac
aluminum pinion support
Strange 1350 series chromoly yolk
Wilwood calipers/brakes
 
I have not heard good things about the true trac.
A nine inch with 31 splines does not do it for me at all.
 
Adrian - If you already have the Detroit unit never mind but FWIW I went with a new posi called a Wavetrac Autotech Driveline - your source for Wavetrac®, Holinger, Drexler, Quaife® that accepts 35 spline axles and carries a lifetime guarantee against breakage. It is also a helical type diff but is allegedly a lot quieter than the Detroit locker types. I think you have the right idea about not using a spool on the street. As far as the axles, I run Mosers on both the race car and the new street project. Go with the highest spline count you can and stick with any reputable mfr such as Moser, Strange, or Mark Williams and you'll be fine. It's easier and cheaper in the long run to overbuild the driveline and have room to grow in the future without having to look over your shoulder.
 
Will How much did you pay for that diff?

I am thinking about upgrading my setup after thinking about it, but it i have to sell my soul for a new diff....
 
i am building up a 9" and i am expecting to do low 1.3's/high 1.20's. This thing is not going to hit the track very often, so it will not be seeing repetative abuse.

my rear end combo will be
ford 9"
strnge aluminum third member
strange axle 31 spline
detroit true trac
aluminum pinion support
Strange 1350 series chromoly yolk
Wilwood calipers/brakes

Id skip the aluminum third member for the street. A Nodular should be fine.
 
most of the time the aluminum center section is about the same price as the nodular..... i have 33 spline an aluminum center section and full spool.... i do drive mine on the street when it run's without any problem.
 
Will How much did you pay for that diff?



I am thinking about upgrading my setup after thinking about it, but it i have to sell my soul for a new diff....

Don't remember exactly as I bought my housing, center, axles, gears, and diff all together. I'm pretty sure it's in line with most any other diff. They have been in use for a while out west and are just now making their way over our way. I know some guys that have been beating the crap out of one with 10 sec wheels up launches in a heavy car with no issues. Call Rocky or Tony @ Moser for a price.

Id skip the aluminum third member for the street. A Nodular should be fine.

There's no problem running an aluminum center on the street if set up properly.
 
Will i spoke to the guys at Strange, and they said that with Aluminum housings that are mainly driven on the street would wear a specific groove nto the gears, and if i were then to take the thing to the track and beat on it there, it would then wear a second groove into the gears and eventually cause the gears to howl.

What do you think about the validity of this??? I really like the weight savings of the Aluminum housing but i do not want the thing to howl.
 
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