Repeat procedure.

Cut the muffler off the Regal and added a 3" straight pipe where muffler previously was, now I don't why I ever put a muffler on on it. Its pretty quiet. It's not the best flowing exhaust I'll loose 2psi of boost from the target running the cutout closed and gain it right back with the cutout opened. Next racing for the car is a Test and tune June 30th and another round of Flashlight drags July 7th. Now it feels like Im driving through the 10" PTC converter, last year at the track 110mph was the best the car could do in the 1/4, 89mph in the 1/8.
 
Nope it's never been serviced or tested in anyway. Not much to gain I think with it being a gutted computer controlled distributor. Nothing in there but the VR sensor and Flamethrower race 4 pin HEI module, rotor and shaft.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
is the mechanical advance under the rotor locked out?
Click to expand...
You will love this one A.J.
There is and never was a mechanical or vacuum advance in these computer distributors. They originally came with 7pin HEI and the ecm controlled the ignition timing. All you could do is set the initial ignition timing on these.
 
hmmmph! very cool.... i dids not know thats.... I will need to keep this in mind.

maybe its time for me to give up my points :p
 
I understand your point, lol Yes, but I lifted this from post 449 of this thread:
dizzy-jpg.140587


That's all that's inside to start, just a stock VR sensor and the rotor shaft. Zero advancing equipment.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
hmmmph! very cool.... i dids not know thats.... I will need to keep this in mind.

maybe its time for me to give up my points :p
Click to expand...

Points? Seriously Aj?o_O With the HEI distributor you get a stronger spark and if you use the 6A or 6AL along with one of the J&S units you'll notice some difference.

If you've got a spare distributor send it to Scot W over at GNS Adam. He can put new bushings in it, balance the shaft, and set some tighter clearances for the distributor. That will help you with your goals.;)
 
WarWagon said:
I understand your point, lol Yes, but I lifted this from post 449 of this thread:

That's all that's inside to start, just a stock VR sensor and the rotor shaft. Zero advancing equipment.
Click to expand...

Agh, i forgt all about that pic.... this threads getting nice and long! months and weeks of bitchen progress! you make us Proud Adam!

But I do like how that is configured... this is perfect for what i have been thinking about to do next which is try a ford EDIS style of ignition system. would be 100% programable throughout the curve.

charlief1 said:
Points? Seriously Aj?o_O With the HEI distributor you get a stronger spark and if you use the 6A or 6AL along with one of the J&S units you'll notice some difference.

If you've got a spare distributor send it to Scot W over at GNS Adam. He can put new bushings in it, balance the shaft, and set some tighter clearances for the distributor. That will help you with your goals.;)
Click to expand...

lol, im actually pretty good at using points...

it what i was first taught... when i was a kid (like 2 weeks ago :p) I apprenticed at a Dick Harrell speed shop and spent summers running the Sun Machine spinning distributors. I still regularly use my Cragar quad point super spark or my Accel dual point. Nuts? completly.

I have for the most part been using an HEI in my buicks.... but i do have an old odd fire dizzy i converted thats points i use when i have ignition troubles... simply because i know its 100% reliable. theres lots that can be made from an engine when you can use MSD and control how long your dwell is..;)
 
I'm surprised that you never used the petronic conversion Aj. I've used it several times for reliability and have never had an issue with them.
 
Alright the weather has been stupid with rain, Flashlight drags cancelled and no testing on street. So the plan is now weather permitting I'm driving the Regal to the track this Thursday and doing a test n tune. Very curious to see what the car will run now, Bison is rebuilding my old PT53 turbo into something bigger and found out the turbine wheel was ate up. All my previous track days I was running that turbo but never knew it was hurt.
I don't know how to tell for sure but the car feels like its driving though or over powering the 10" s stall converter right now. The rpms are too high for awhile. Whats the best mph one has got from a 10" s stall?
 
Drove to and from the track yesterday with the Regal, little improvements were had and my best foot brake launches ever. 93/alky, 28" MT drags, 29-30psi boost, First pass I used the trans brake @ 3500rpm got a 12.16@112 (best mph ever)leaning out and surging a little, next pass I dropped boost to 25psi and turned the nitrous on and launched off the footbrake with a 1.8 60ft and got a 11.92@101. I forgot to turn the alky down or off and the car was over fueled and was breaking up on top. Next pass was on the nitrous again and the same foot brake launch but I turned the alky down to 5. This got an 11.90@109 still breaking up and popping on top. Pretty much no boost foot brake launches So best 1/8th mile was 7.5@93 and best 60ft was 1.8 both on and off the trans brake. I will have to go back over the tune and tune tune tune some more, the car easily has 11 sec potential without the nitrous but Iwill have to see what is off and why it's so slow. At least is consistent, lol
Posted slip of the best run I'm car 3688 and that was a Hemi Challenger in the left lane lol
 

Attachments

  • Slip.jpg
    Slip.jpg
    43.3 KB · Views: 109
With a perfect tune it would be in the tens! But Im not a tuner by trade and I learn as I go. There isnt a chip you can buy or a local shop that knows how to tune a turbo Buick properly especially one with a carb, so its up to me. Truth is none of these runs are clean but the car is performing better each time I take it out and it still has a way to go. But good side is no exotic parts and still under 5k for entire project, Copy that.
 
I don't know I have not looked at them in months. I'm sure the plug wires are cooked on now and I'd have to buy a set just to look at plugs. Seems worth it lol.
 
You need to take a look at the plugs after running down the track Adam. That will give you a better idea of the tune.;) Especially while you're at the track so you can get a better idea of what you need to do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Pierre
Refresh engine
2
Replies
33
Views
3K
ITSAV6
ITSAV6
Anthony P
FS: 3.8L N/A engine - never fired, built several years ago $1100
Replies
2
Views
1K
Anthony P
Anthony P
G
100,000 mile engine service - a few questions
Replies
11
Views
558
granitestategn
G
J
Showing some love to the GN - Time for updates - Looking for Advice
Replies
19
Views
2K
JadeMonkeyStang
J
D
DFW new owner (again)
Replies
3
Views
338
HotAirWH1
HotAirWH1
Top