how to make a gbody handle

It wasn't.

Unless the '87 had a lot more miles, bad suspension, bad body mounts, significantly more weight, worse tires, damaged steering, less chassis bracing, or a slew of other chassis/suspension mishaps.

78k vs. 219k, don't think there's any worn/damaged parts but there could be...
 
I'm replacing my current tires with some Michelins that have high ratings in several areas, cornering, accleration, braking...we'll see how much of a difference they make when they get here in a few days....
 
You should know me by now - "better late than never"

Note modifications to fit the 8.5 GN Rear on a lowered car. (Raising or lowering the car changes the angle of the bar across the center section, since the front of the bar is mounted to the body/frame.) The bar originally came in contact with the rear housing at the lower outside corners of the rearend center section, so I shaved the corner points of the rear housing, to match the angle of the swaybar drop sections, and I added a 1/4" aluminum spacer between the bushing and the axle bracket. Mark at SC&C has other bushing options to easily remedy this problem.

ttt interesting..
 
Anybody use the oem ones kirban has. I don't want to worry about sweaking or any other noise. If you do use poly on the body or any other bushings be sure to use synthetic grease. Super Lube

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4 years ago I put my car back together. I used poly every where. I have had no noises after putting anti- sieze on every thing. 1 hard lesson to learn.
 
GNS (a supporting vendor) can sell you frame bracing kit that is now available. Should help the center protion of our frames...part between the wheels. Check with Scot W.

Conrad

www.gnsperformance.com
 
1LE is the option you are looking for on the F-Bodies for a larger front swaybar. As far as the bolts pulling out while using a 36mm bar, thats becuase of improper installation. Not the bar or the car's fault.

Moog 5658 front springs
Moog 5413 rear

New MOOG problem solver bushings in the front crontrol arms

34 or 36mm Hollow front swaybar

Decent rear swaybar

Boxed or solid lower rear control arms

This set up will do wonders for the car for a cheap price.



If you want something a little more elaborate, get a set of Howes tall ball joints and a set of adjustabe front upper control arms to help out with bump steer.

Check out this thread for a lot of good info:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...ls/244936-moog-5658-front-spring-results.html


Can anyone help me……wondering what the spring rates & overall lengths of the stock factory front & rear coil springs ?

How would they compare to these?
Moog 5658 front springs
Moog 5413 rear

Thanks,

dave
 
Back on Post #13 UNGN wrote..
A larger rear sway bar will make he car feel as though it handles better more than a front sway bar.
A G-body understeers a lot from the factory. A larger front swaybar will flatten the cornering, but it will still understeer.

A larger rear bar will turn the back end the car, reduce understeer and make the car feel like it handles much better.

I've heard this before, and if this works, could one run a stock GN front swaybar , and a larger rear swaybar in the rear, like even a HR PartsNStuff rear bar thats big... 1.25" (.250 wall)...?
 
I love supporting the vendors, but cutting card board templates is way cheaper. I had a welding shop cut me some out of 1\8 metal. Cost me 75 dollars and works well.

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