how to make a gbody handle
- Thread starter gear644
- Start date
One of the best things you can do is to cut the rear spring pearches off and reverse them. The posistion of the springs behind the axle causes the car to squat and reversing them gives you more downforce and a better response for handling and launches. It's a standard round track modification.
turbofish38
Le Pétomane
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2002
The springs sit on top of the tubes on the G-Body. That trick might work on the 77 and older A-Body but I'm wondering what do you do with the upper spring pocket in the frame?
There's just a slight offset to the rear Eric. You're only reseting the perch about .75 to 1" but it posistions the perch only slightly foward. It helps on a launch or coming out of a corner. There's not enough offset on the upper mount to do a whole lot of difference except in the way downforce is treated under acceleration.
T-CHRGD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
Out of Ideas ?? I will post pics this w/e of my Fays2 Watts Link from Savitske Classic & Custom !! Finally Done !! :biggrin:
T-CHRGD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
Too soon to tell, but I am sure it will. :biggrin:
I need to work on some tire clearance issues with my new 17 X 10 wheels before I push it too hard.
T-CHRGD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
I worked on different options with the bolts (tried grade 8 carriage bolts), but the shoulder bolts are best for shear strength. Fortunately, the shoulder bolts are available in 1/4" increments, so I went with a 1/4" shorter bolt and was able to eliminate 2 washers that would have extended the head out even further.
The bolt heads are not really a problem. My new Boze wheels have a 4.75 B.S. and there is just enough room. I spent alot of time measuring, and knew they would fit in the back. I also knew it would be close at the lip. If my car was not so low it would not be as bad. I plan to roll the fender lips, and possibly add a 1/2" spacer. Then it will be good to (Really) GO
Gary Wells
White turbo Buick trailer park trash
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2002
T-CHRGD: Thanks for posting the information & the pics. I am going to have to look into that. Looks like it might run with my current suspension set-up posted up above. The brake line running over the passenger side axle clamp. Does that require a new brake line to clear the clamp, or is the pre-existing brake line long enough to clear after being raised up like that? Also, does that replace the rear sway bar or just work in conjunction with it?
T-CHRGD
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
The brake lines are the same, just re-positioned. I will need to tie them down better, as they had to be moved away fron the clips on the axle tube.
The Watts Link keeps the rear perfectly centered on the frame. You still need a swaybar to reduce body roll, but since the trailing arms and swaybar do not have to work to stop the side to side movement between the body and axle, the swaybar works much more efficiently at its primary job, reducing body roll.
I will be changing the swaybar from that in the pics. Spohn Performance will very soon have their "Pro-Touring" rear bar available. I will post more pics once that is on.
The Watts Link keeps the rear perfectly centered on the frame. You still need a swaybar to reduce body roll, but since the trailing arms and swaybar do not have to work to stop the side to side movement between the body and axle, the swaybar works much more efficiently at its primary job, reducing body roll.
I will be changing the swaybar from that in the pics. Spohn Performance will very soon have their "Pro-Touring" rear bar available. I will post more pics once that is on.
Gary Wells
White turbo Buick trailer park trash
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2002
The brake lines are the same, just re-positioned. I will need to tie them down better, as they had to be moved away fron the clips on the axle tube.
The Watts Link keeps the rear perfectly centered on the frame. You still need a swaybar to reduce body roll, but since the trailing arms and swaybar do not have to work to stop the side to side movement between the body and axle, the swaybar works much more efficiently at its primary job, reducing body roll.
I will be changing the swaybar from that in the pics. Spohn Performance will very soon have their "Pro-Touring" rear bar available. I will post more pics once that is on.
Spohn has had that bar coming out for quite some time now. Hopefully, they will redesign the clearance between the lowest point of the center section directly under the pumpkin and the ground. Thanks again, T-CHRGD
Similar threads
