how to make a gbody handle

T-CHRGD:
Really looking forward to seeing pictures of the Spohn Pro-Touring adjustable rear sway bar & how it interacts & fits with the Fays Watts linkage. Does the Fays Watts linkage clear a Hooker Cat-back system do you know? Please keep us posted. When's your sway bar coming?

Rumor has it, it is ON THE WAY. :eek: Tuesday or Wednesday. :biggrin: (already stopped in today and it was not there yet) :(
 
Hang in there, T-CHARGED, I know the feeling well. I know that it is frustrating, but it will be worth it in the long run. I am anxious to see this on your car, too.
 
t-charged, do you have the gnx 3link back there? Also, do you think you would be able to fit 3 inch tailpipes around the watts link bars?

Looks great man, can't wait to here how it handles. You aren't to far from me, I'd like to go slung around in the pass seat. hehe:biggrin:
 
t-charged, do you have the gnx 3link back there? Also, do you think you would be able to fit 3 inch tailpipes around the watts link bars?

Looks great man, can't wait to here how it handles. You aren't to far from me, I'd like to go slung around in the pass seat. hehe:biggrin:

My other project car has the full GNX suspension ('79 Century Turbo Coupe w/ '87 drivetrain and GNX susp.)
The "T" in the pics has only a GNX rear cover (repo. w/o the torque arm).
With a full GNX susp. with the panhard bar, you wouldn't really need the watts link.
As for the exhaust, I don't really know. My exhaust doesn't go past the axle. Mark at SC&C might have a better idea of what would fit.
 
Thanks for the reply. When i get around to it I'll have to drop Mark a line then. I seen some pics on the FAYS2 site, and a few on pro-touring, but no-one has tailpipes.
 
I am running Hotchkis TVS with tubular upper control arms, f-body spindles 17x8f, 17x9r wheels with sticky tires (can't remember tire size off the top of my head). Also rear seat bracing, front chassis bar, and soon to be 1/4 panel/rad support bars.

Dropping weight helps tremendously also.

The car handles very well on long sweeping turns. The steering needs some help for the tighter turns.

Nick
 
I think I noticed the suspension on my 84 Regal was much better handling than my 87. The 84 was just a basic V6 n/a car. Why?
 
I think I noticed the suspension on my 84 Regal was much better handling than my 87. The 84 was just a basic V6 n/a car. Why?

Lack of power when you press down on the go-pedal?

I once built a 84 4.1 Regal to compete in the G-Stock class of SCCA Solo2. It was pretty light as there was no AC, straight bench,etc. I had to relearn everything on the car to post a decent time. It was one understeering pig compared to my GN. The GN was point it and feed the throttle. You steered it with the rear wheels. Once I broke the habit of flooring it when I wanted it to oversteer it didn't handle half bad. I'd like to build another NA V-6 G-Body as they have since bumped them down another notch into H-Stock. The V-8 and Turbo cars are still F-Stock.
 
I don't see how lack of power in the go pedal was a contributing factor. Might be a 100k mile difference? Who knows....
 
I don't see how lack of power in the go pedal was a contributing factor. Might be a 100k mile difference? Who knows....

Simply put, if your nose is plowing in a corner and you have the power to swing the back end around you can get through the corner better. If you don't have the power you have to compensate in other ways.
 
I think I noticed the suspension on my 84 Regal was much better handling than my 87. The 84 was just a basic V6 n/a car. Why?

It wasn't.

Unless the '87 had a lot more miles, bad suspension, bad body mounts, significantly more weight, worse tires, damaged steering, less chassis bracing, or a slew of other chassis/suspension mishaps.

Nick
 
Pics to follow when?

You should know me by now - "better late than never"

Note modifications to fit the 8.5 GN Rear on a lowered car. (Raising or lowering the car changes the angle of the bar across the center section, since the front of the bar is mounted to the body/frame.) The bar originally came in contact with the rear housing at the lower outside corners of the rearend center section, so I shaved the corner points of the rear housing, to match the angle of the swaybar drop sections, and I added a 1/4" aluminum spacer between the bushing and the axle bracket. Mark at SC&C has other bushing options to easily remedy this problem.
 

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Man, that looks SWEET! Are those spacers between your rear and the coil springs?

And, how has the handling improved since the watts link and the new swaybar?
 
Man, that looks SWEET! Are those spacers between your rear and the coil springs?

And, how has the handling improved since the watts link and the new swaybar?

Thanks :biggrin:

Yes, I put in SPC 1/2" spacers to get a little more room for the tires.

Car is still sitting as in the pics. I need to roll the fender lips before it hits the pavement again. I plan to have it at Kirban's Open House on 4/18. :cool:
 
you could always go out and get some AFCO coils, with one pig tail and the adjustable spring cups. I have em and love that set-up. Especially if going from low pro's to drag radials :biggrin:

Let us know how the handling has improved when you get back on the ground.
 
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