Car doesn't start! No spark! Need help!

Doesn't matter if the cam sensor is properly timed or not, you'll get spark eventually during crank if all is good electrically.

If you get no spark, look for bad connectors, blown fuses or damaged wiring. Assuming the sensors are good.
 
Earlier in the thread the engine started for a couple seconds. Had to have spark then. Doubt the module took a crap all the sudden. Don't throw parts at it. It was running before.

Rick
 
Turned the cam sensor a little bit counterclock wise. No sparks. Same as before. Ordered a new module some minutes ago.
 
Try jiggling the CCCI connector while someone cranks the engine. I have seen several bad connectors and believe it's an ongoing problem with those.
 
GNVenom said:
Try jiggling the CCCI connector while someone cranks the engine. I have seen several bad connectors and believe it's an ongoing problem with those.
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Since the ECM is firing the injectors the ICM is getting good crank and cam signals. The cam sensor may be out of time, but it is working.

The coils have their own power feed via the CCCI fuse (in fuse block, upper left, 10 Amp). Check that first then with key-on, engine-off make sure that both pins M & P on the ICM connector (pigtail end) has +12 volts.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Both Pins M & P have 12 V. CCCI has good ground, too. When I put off the crank connector from the sensor. Then turn the ignition on and put the connector back to the sensor, the fuel pump starts for two seconds. Same with the cam sensor. I checked all wires between CCCI, ECM, ESC, sensors and fuse block. Everything ok, but no spark. Ignition modul arrived today. Hope it will solve my Problem.
Thomas
 
Beware of aftermarket ignition modules. I have seen more that don't work than those that do. And, most aftermarket modules won't give you a tach signal.

Removing or replacing ignition component connectors have nothing to do with fuel pump prime. That's handled by the ECM.

Your problem is definitely electrical, and if I had to guess, it's a bad connection somewhere within the engine harness. Possibly even moving the sensor connector might be disturbing the bad connection., giving you a false prime event.
 
Check the engine grounds again, mostly the EFI harness grounds that attach to the back of the cylinder head. The ICM could have died just being on the shelf, it happens.

One thing that is interesting is that re-connecting either the cam or crank sensor with the key-on causes the fuel pump to run. This means that the ICM sent a reference pulse to the ECM. That is, the ICM thought that the crank and cam signals were properly seen. And sent a reference pulse.

I can see this possibly occurring with the cam sensor connector, but shouldn't with just the crank signal being toggled. However, I've never tested this, may be a good thing for me to try someday just to see what happens.

Operating properly the ICM needs both crank and cam signals before it will send a reference pulse to the ECM. The ECM in turn will start to fire the injectors (batch fire during cranking), and turn on the fuel pump. Which is what you are seeing. The ECM will continue to run the fuel pump as long as reference pulses are received. They stop, 2 seconds later the ECM cuts the fuel pump.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Got a new module and coils from STANDARD, but had no time to put it into the car yesterday. Will check the grounds on the rear of the engine again. Hope to get the time today, but will do it defenetly on Friday.
Thomas
 
Put the new module in. Nothing! No sparks on plugs. Checked grounds on right side of engine again. They are good. Checked 12V on pin P and M during starting. Volts drop down from 12 V to 9V. Jumpered 12 V directly from battery to fuse block Ignition and CCCI. Nothing! No start. No sparks! How can I measure or test the crank sensor. It is still the old. But there is fuel from the injector in the cylinders. I smell it.
Another point is that the oil pump didn't pump any oil. Oil filter is still dry after all the starting trials. Now I am happy the engine doesn't start. When I put the pump together I forget to prime the pump with oil or after the long time of sitting the oil is gone.
How can I prime it. I used a high flow pump.

Thanks Thomas
 
Take the cam sensor cap off and crank the engine to see if the sensor is rotating. If it isn't you found your problem.
 
Btw did you pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly before you put the front cover on. The oil pump will not prime without it. The only way to prime it is to pull the cam sensor and use a drill with a priming tool. But you need to pack the oil pump first.
 
v6turbo87 said:
Btw did you pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly before you put the front cover on. The oil pump will not prime without it. The only way to prime it is to pull the cam sensor and use a drill with a priming tool. But you need to pack the oil pump first.
Click to expand...
It may make it easier with PJ, and have done it both ways. Just takes longer without PJ (with a drill of course ), and if everthing is correct, it will prime. I understand the manual says to fill the pump with petroleum jelly but I never felt comfortable shoving petroleum jelly through the oil galleries on a fresh motor.

There is typically an exception to the rule on these cars. lol
Having said that . . . I would not spin the pump dry.

Thomas, your call. But priming is a must. lol
 
At this point he doesn't even know if the oil pump is being spun. As I said take the cam sensor cap off and crank the engine to see if it is being spun.
 
This thread took a turn. You can disconnect one of the oil cooler lines and pour oil into it while slowly turning the pump. Depending on what line used you may need to spin the pump backwards (counter clockwise) to pull oil in. Once you have a little oil in the pump, reconnect the line and spin it clockwise. It should prime.

Are the spark plugs soaked? Are they all consistent? Have you check for spark with a new spark plug or inline tester?

Rick
 
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