Anyone going to Cordova IL dragway Sunday?

I just did the fuel pressure test and with 18 boost I hit 61 total fuel pressure. Reads 40 ish at idle. So fuel pressure isn't the issue.

I did 2 pulls. TT chip set for 93 oct and alky. I don't know the timing. I'm running 42.5 injectors

I have not done a compression check yet. Can someone tell me how to set the car up for a compression test? How do I keep the car from trying to fire?

1st pull alky on 2 and I got 761 02's and 1.7 KR

2nd run I hit it in 1st from a roll and went well in to third. Great fuel pressure all the way. This time my service engine soon light came on and now the car idles up and down, up and down.
 
My check engine light was code 34. MAF circuit low no signal. I rapped on it and now it idles fine.

Could the MAF sensor be my problem?
 
Could be.

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
MAFs are hard to diagnose visually; they kind of either work or not. Rapping on it to fix it would lead me to believe there is an issue, at least with the wiring if not MAF itself. With the O2s as high as they were with the alky only on 2, I def think you were rich this past weekend. The alky should be run at 6 for adequate pressure. the 1.7kr isn't bad. Try taking away 5% of wot fuel and put the alky back on 6 and give it a try. You were 8% positive on the fuel before I believe. The MAF may make it run poorly but the TT chip locks AF in at 255 and bl @ 128 at WOT so MAF is not used then anyway.
 
Ok here's another update.

I didn't clean the MAF just re-installed it. I talked to a buddy of mine who's a master tech ( just not familiar with Turbo buicks ) and he said if I rapped on the MAF and changed the way the car ran that I need to change it. I asked him if the MAF could cause any problems with the performance of the car even though the car idled and ran fine. He said yes it can definitely effect a lot of things. He told me to re-install it and start the car which I did. The car idled perfect and revved up off idle just fine. Then I let it idle and went and tapped on it with my knuckle and the car died instantly.

Time for a new MAF. Tell me what I need to get and I'll order it tomorrow.

Second update. I've never pulled the chip out of the car so I did that tonight just to see what I had.

It's a TT chip which I knew. It's say's

5.6 1611
42# Alky
25/21 23 25 psi

This is all the info I can give you guy's for now. Tell me where to go from here and I'll do it.

Thanks Brett
 
You were way rich at the track! Eric has a ton of fuel, even with alky, in that chip bc it's meant to be run at 25 psi. Timing is also aggressive so don't run it without alky. Put the alky back on 6, leave fuel alone, and start to creep up on 25psi as long as you don't get knock. Do this AFTER: you get a MAF translator and a new MAF of your choice, usually based upon the size of intake you want to run. Others based upon the size of the turbo inlet you plan to run. My 3" intake and LT1 MAF seem to flow plenty, but I do plan on going to a 4"MAF when I get a new turbo with 4" inlet. The translator works with them all though. Most vendors sell both translators and MAFs, pick your fav.
 
we4Mateo said:
MAFs are hard to diagnose visually; they kind of either work or not. Rapping on it to fix it would lead me to believe there is an issue, at least with the wiring if not MAF itself. With the O2s as high as they were with the alky only on 2, I def think you were rich this past weekend. The alky should be run at 6 for adequate pressure. the 1.7kr isn't bad. Try taking away 5% of wot fuel and put the alky back on 6 and give it a try. You were 8% positive on the fuel before I believe. The MAF may make it run poorly but the TT chip locks AF in at 255 and bl @ 128 at WOT so MAF is not used then anyway.
Click to expand...

Sorry I posted while you were posting this.

When I was at the track after the first run I went back to the pit's to change the chip back to base settings.

When I got to value #1 it said 146. That means I was +14.1. I know this is hard to believe but I swear I stopped the SM at 138 which is +7.8. It was my first time so I'm sure I messed it up.

What I'm trying to do is get all the main stuff figured out before we go racing at Earlville so we can eliminate any head scratching and I can make some passes.

I'll so my best to get you the info you need so you can tell me what I need to do to get this car running like it should.

Thanks for all the help!
 
we4Mateo said:
You were way rich at the track! Eric has a ton of fuel, even with alky, in that chip bc it's meant to be run at 25 psi. Timing is also aggressive so don't run it without alky. Put the alky back on 6, leave fuel alone, and start to creep up on 25psi as long as you don't get knock. Do this AFTER: you get a MAF translator and a new MAF of your choice, usually based upon the size of intake you want to run. Others based upon the size of the turbo inlet you plan to run. My 3" intake and LT1 MAF seem to flow plenty, but I do plan on going to a 4"MAF when I get a new turbo with 4" inlet. The translator works with them all though. Most vendors sell both translators and MAFs, pick your fav.
Click to expand...

You beat me again! LOL

I will be more than happy to buy what ever you tell me. I don't have a favorite choice because I have no clue what is good?

If I change MAF brand etc how will I mount it? I have a flexible tube inlet hose and my air filter is mounted down low behind the front bumper. I read the LS1 maf sensors don't have the same mounting holes as the current MAF I have now. I need some help getting a parts list together for the MAF sensor replacement. If you were me how would you do it?
 
If you can tap on the MAF and the car even remotely hesitates, its bad. Your 02's would be in the 900's if you are extremely rich. Thats all I used to tune with 10 years ago.
 
BARRACUDA1968 said:
You beat me again! LOL

I will be more than happy to buy what ever you tell me. I don't have a favorite choice because I have no clue what is good?

If I change MAF brand etc how will I mount it? I have a flexible tube inlet hose and my air filter is mounted down low behind the front bumper. I read the LS1 maf sensors don't have the same mounting holes as the current MAF I have now. I need some help getting a parts list together for the MAF sensor replacement. If you were me how would you do it?
Click to expand...


What diameter is your intake? I assume 3" since it's on a TA49 with a 3" inlet? The stock MAF is 3" so direct replacement size wise would be the 3" LT1 MAF. You may need to fab a quick bracket to support it though with the flex hose unless you want to go to a hard body intake.

Here are a few links:
Translator: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+050BUICKTRANS+eq++Tp+
MAF: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+02225180303+eq++Tp+
Shorty intake: http://buickgn.com/mafpipes3INCH.htm

Just some starters for you. Feel free to shop around. I've used all vendors in my sig with success and good service.
 
TT/Ameasap said:
If you can tap on the MAF and the car even remotely hesitates, its bad. Your 02's would be in the 900's if you are extremely rich. Thats all I used to tune with 10 years ago.
Click to expand...


And there's a reason you stopped doing it that way. I've seen NB numbers all over the place with no fluctuation in real AFR.
 
Yes I have a Reds pump hotwired. I have the receipt in a box at work but I can tell you tomorrow what the pump is exactly.
 
we4Mateo said:
What diameter is your intake? I assume 3" since it's on a TA49 with a 3" inlet? The stock MAF is 3" so direct replacement size wise would be the 3" LT1 MAF. You may need to fab a quick bracket to support it though with the flex hose unless you want to go to a hard body intake.

Here are a few links:
Translator: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp ic 050BUICKTRANS eq Tp
MAF: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp ic 02225180303 eq Tp
Shorty intake: http://buickgn.com/mafpipes3INCH.htm

Just some starters for you. Feel free to shop around. I've used all vendors in my sig with success and good service.
Click to expand...

That MAF looks shorter than my stock unit. If I use that I will have to do something with the inlet tube otherwise my inlet tubes won't reach both ends.

Is there a good choice that is the same length as my current MAF?
 
Actually, I still read the NB #'s with my WB. Now, a NB can have different numbers vs a new one and each car reads a little different, but if it's a known good NB, he should be able to tune from it. My current car likes around 800-820. My other 3 TTA's laid over in that range and liked 760-780. My GN liked 740-760 range. this is all top of 3rd.
 
TT/Ameasap said:
If you can tap on the MAF and the car even remotely hesitates, its bad. Your 02's would be in the 900's if you are extremely rich. Thats all I used to tune with 10 years ago.
Click to expand...


TT/Ameasap said:
If you can tap on the MAF and the car even remotely hesitates, its bad. Your 02's would be in the 900's if you are extremely rich. Thats all I used to tune with 10 years ago.
Click to expand...


I'm clueless on why my readings were in line based on my tune. Theoretically I should have been rich the way I had it set with 18 psi and even with 20 psi and alky.

Should I install a new 02 sensor as well when I get it going again?
 
Well, I can tell you this. I have added nearly 20% fuel at 18psi and im out of room on the chip. I have to send it back in to get some adjustments. My 02's are 800-810 top of 3rd and WB is 10.8-11.0.
Its extremely hard to tune with a person that is learning these cars over the internet. So, I suggest bringing the car to me. I am not the best tuner, but I have made some cars run hard in the past and if I dont know something, I have good resources to rely on and call them.
 
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