11" bolt on brakes

I just found this site and this guy talks about machining the spindle in order to fit the 4x4 hubs - does this sound like a good idea...

"Hubs:
The correct 2wd 98+ S10 Blazer hubs should be purchased off ebay as it's the
only place with reasonable prices. The BCA part# is 513200. 4wd hubs do not
interchange! The hub diameter where the hub slides into the knuckle is 3.62" on
the 4wd and the 2wd 98+ Blazer is 3.50" For my personal vehicles I am machining
my Belltech knuckles to 3.62" to use the lower priced 4wd hubs. BCA part#
513013 has no ABS and is the least expensive hub available. Approximately 1/3
the price. "

Anyone care to guess what the machining would cost??
 
I found a set up at local yard. $30.00 a spindle including the hub $10 a calaper. someone alredy took the driver side so I am looking for the driver side spindle. the only other one I found was $125 for spindle and calaper. hope one turns up soon.
 
I just found this site and this guy talks about machining the spindle in order to fit the 4x4 hubs - does this sound like a good idea...

"Hubs:
The correct 2wd 98+ S10 Blazer hubs should be purchased off ebay as it's the
only place with reasonable prices. The BCA part# is 513200. 4wd hubs do not
interchange! The hub diameter where the hub slides into the knuckle is 3.62" on
the 4wd and the 2wd 98+ Blazer is 3.50" For my personal vehicles I am machining
my Belltech knuckles to 3.62" to use the lower priced 4wd hubs. BCA part#
513013 has no ABS and is the least expensive hub available. Approximately 1/3
the price. "

Anyone care to guess what the machining would cost??


bump, hopefully someone will chime in

25,000 views, 250+ responses, more then the 2 stickies combined!
COUNTLESS HELP and CONTRIBUTION vs the stickies too!
Why This Thread still not a sticky is BEYOND ME!
 
bump, hopefully someone will chime in

25,000 views, 250+ responses, more then the 2 stickies combined!
COUNTLESS HELP and CONTRIBUTION vs the stickies too!
Why This Thread still not a sticky is BEYOND ME!

after further investigation ( earlier this week ) me and don3D determined that this either was an old website or things have changed very recently because the price of the hubs he refers to were not much less then the price of the correct hubs for the spindles...we both decided that buying the cheepo fleabay hubs ( $120 shipped for 2 ) was worth replacing when they go bad for us ( we don't/won't drive our cars enough to put REAL miles on them ).
 
updates

Well I have been working off and on on my DP brakes setup.

Mostly cleaning them up and reviewing the parts. I have not installed them eyt.

I did find the the sealed wheel bearing had lots of drag from sitting in the bone yard for a long time. I was worried that I'd have to buy new hubs. They are around 112 at autozone each!

I started examine them more and found that if you remove the ABS sensor from the hub you can see part of the bearing. I poured some axle lub in and started turning the back and forth. They do start turning better!

I was thinking that you could make a simple cover plate with threaded for a zirc fitting to lube them?

Them main failure on any bearing is loss of the lub/ grease or damage. Since these were not hit I figured this was worth it!

I'll post some pictures later.
 
pictures

Here is a picture of the cleaned up spindles and calipers.

I painted the calipers red for a little bling factor
 

Attachments

  • DP brakes 1.jpg
    DP brakes 1.jpg
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verry common for the bearings to go bad... gm said it was a bad design and can't keep them on the shelf, at the parts counter. i had to get 2 this winter as mine had lots of play. funny how no parts store or dealer has a warranty on these bearings.........
 
you can get the hubs on fleabay for $50 ea brand new -just fyi

Post a link. The cheapest I've found them is $100 new each and with a 6 month warrantee. I know AZ offers a 1 year warrantee but for $225 it just isn't worth it unless you drive the car a lot.
 
I believe that most of the cheap hubs are for the 4wheel drive versions. They have to be machined to be used.

Several people talked about doing it. Anybody do it yet? What kind of special jig required to put them on a lathe?
 
I just bought spindles from a 2wd 2000 blazer--they look to be correct, but I noticed that the piece that comes off the spindle for the tie rod ends to attach to are at a slightly different angle (when comparing the two different sides) Is this correct?? I hope this explanation makes sense, if not I can post pictures on Monday. Thanks!
 
i don't know if anyone else read the guy's physics-jargin on the gnttype.org link earlier in this thread but it is total b.s. if you look at the first pic in this thread and compare the length of the pad and how much of it is contacting the rotor (area) and the 2 large pistons evenly distributing the load vs. the stock setup, it is a no brainer! he says something to the effect of "coefficient of friction doesn't factor into it, only clamping force". has he ever heard of the contact patch on a tire? why do you think snowmobiles go so well in the snow? i'm not a physics major, maybe i missed something?:confused:
 
i don't know if anyone else read the guy's physics-jargin on the gnttype.org link earlier in this thread but it is total b.s. if you look at the first pic in this thread and compare the length of the pad and how much of it is contacting the rotor (area) and the 2 large pistons evenly distributing the load vs. the stock setup, it is a no brainer! he says something to the effect of "coefficient of friction doesn't factor into it, only clamping force". has he ever heard of the contact patch on a tire? why do you think snowmobiles go so well in the snow? i'm not a physics major, maybe i missed something?:confused:

Which guy; Doc, Bob, or me?
 
doc; he was not very flexible... he left out a lot of variables that contribute to a good braking system in his calculations. i disagree!
 
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