Zam70

A

AsphaltAnihil8r

Guest
Well I want to start sanding my car in my free time ,,like there is any:)) )

1: Do they make electric DA sanders?
2: is it better to buy a compressor and air DA sander?
3: What grit paper do I start with?
4: Do you use finer grit papers as you progress?
5: if the car is arrow straight now ,do I need fillers?
6: On a car from the factory do they use fillers?

Im sure there will be more ????

What books do you recommend...
Thanks D
Dennis
 
Well I want to start sanding my car in my free time ,,like there is any( )

1: Do they make electric DA sanders?
A: I have never seen any. There are electric orbital sanders...it could work...

2: is it better to buy a compressor and air DA sander?
A:well yes but, It takes ALOT of air to run a DA...you'll need a big one.

3: What grit paper do I start with?
A:this depends. If the body/paint is shot - you'll want to start with 80 and let the sander do the work (don't press down hard). After the entire car is sanded you'll want to prime it and then the blocking starts...block intially w/ 180, reprime, guide coat - then block with 400, reprime, guide coat - block again with 400, keep priming blocking w/400 until you are happy with the body. Light reprime and then wet block w/ 600 then scuff pad for a final prep. You can use a soft block with the 600
By the way, dry blocking is faster and messy/dusty (wear a mask!), wet blocking is easier and less messy (no mask needed)...when wet blocking, you can never have enough water.

4: Do you use finer grit papers as you progress?
A: see above

5: if the car is arrow straight now ,do I need fillers?
A:If it is straight enough for you, you can actually skip the 80 w/DA step and just start out blocking with 180. This will show you the imperfections right off (low & high spots). Minor waves/dips will sometimes block out with multiple primes. When blocking DON'T use alot of pressure. Let the paper do the work. You'll need a long board and some smaller blocks as well (all hard). Use the biggest board/block you can for the area you're working on...You'll use your hands for the real odd ball areas (ie:header panel or scoop area). At all times, sand diagonally in random patterns. If you don't you will create grooves - You're trying to level things so you'll need to go from different directions over and over....try to never sand the exact same path twice. I always hold the block, board or paper diagonal to my stroke. DON'T be in a hurry...a good block job will take a LONG time.

6: On a car from the factory do they use fillers?
A: yes - in the seam areas (ie:1/4 to roof seam)

What books do you recommend...
A: I have never read any on body/paint work, I learned from those who do it for a living

There are different techniques that all lead to similar results...maybe some others will chime in.
 
A few questions/comments. Wouldn't an orbital sander apply to much heat to the underlying sheetmetal causing it to warp if you weren't careful? I have a powerpainter that I use on the house and I don't think they make the correct nozzles(even the one for stains) that will let you spray automotive laquers with out a lot of overspray(wasted materials) and orange peel. If it was me I would save up the money and get a compressor and tools. Who knows maybe you'll be like me and end up painting everything you have. Good tools are an investment that dont depreciate with age. For the price of labor on a professional paint job you can have a nice compressor and gun.
 
Eric I added this :rolleyes: to the post to let everyone know that I was joking..:)
 
Originally posted by zam70

5: if the car is arrow straight now ,do I need fillers?
A:If it is straight enough for you, you can actually skip the 80 w/DA step and just start out blocking with 180. This will show you the imperfections right off (low & high spots). Minor waves/dips will sometimes block out with multiple primes. When blocking DON'T use alot of pressure. Let the paper do the work. You'll need a long board and some smaller blocks as well (all hard). Use the biggest board/block you can for the area you're working on...You'll use your hands for the real odd ball areas (ie:header panel or scoop area). At all times, sand diagonally in random patterns. If you don't you will create grooves - You're trying to level things so you'll need to go from different directions over and over....try to never sand the exact same path twice. I always hold the block, board or paper diagonal to my stroke. DON'T be in a hurry...a good block job will take a LONG time.

I definatly agree with this one. If the car is straight enough as is, you don't want to mess it up using a DA. There is an art to blocking with the DA, and it doesn't just happen overnight. However, if the top surfaces of the car are laquer cracked, you should be fine with the DA since its relatively flat. Just make sure you don't heat it up too much.
If you need any supplies, I can get you a number of our local supplier our shop uses up here. If you need any help, advice, or would like to see how to do something, feel free to shoot me an email. I'm not too far away from you.
 
The car is very straight for my taste,it's not black so that helps some.the car will be painted the Original Dark Met Blue,so that may help with any imperfections.

It sounds like you are saying skip the DA and just Block the old Paint off the car,is that correct.
if so do I start blocking with 80 or is that for coarse of a grit:)
 
You don't block the paint OFF - you block it flat. spray a guide coat ( light coat of flat white would be good in your case since it's a dark color...) Just lightly mist it on, block w/180
 
Originally posted by zam70
You don't block the paint OFF - you block it flat. spray a guide coat ( light coat of flat white would be good in your case since it's a dark color...) Just lightly mist it on, block w/180
Ok so I dont have to go down to bare metal,even tho the car has sh!t paint.
Sorry ,I'm trying to unserstand...
 
depends on what you mean by **** paint. If the paint is solid (not peeling or cracking) it will be fine.

Think of it this way - think of the paint on there now as your first primer coat and go from there
 
Top