Turbo Motion IC Kit?
- Thread starter tjhgn85
- Start date
I would definately say a fuel pump + scantool would be a must. I recommend fixing any probelms such as cracked mainfolds and such before even attempting to mod the car. Other upgrades like ecm, injectors, turbo, exhaust, and so on aren't need but complement the kit nicely.
I ran mine with a stock turbo for a few months....the car wasn't super fast (no power past 4000rpm) but was a blast to drive (smokem' on command).
I ran mine with a stock turbo for a few months....the car wasn't super fast (no power past 4000rpm) but was a blast to drive (smokem' on command).
Men in Black
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Hey nocooler, its time to change your screen name. How about cooler than before, or yescooler, or yeah, I'm cool. Just a late nite thought. see ya.
What...you dont like Nocooler ? It's good the way it is....ha
Nocooler can also be like - "Cant get much cooler than this..." I dont take it to mean...Not cool
It can also be "Like no cool you have ever seen before..."
Okay, 'nuff said
(Gonna get my previlegs revoked)
Nocooler can also be like - "Cant get much cooler than this..." I dont take it to mean...Not cool
It can also be "Like no cool you have ever seen before..."
Okay, 'nuff said
(Gonna get my previlegs revoked)
Electric Fan
I believe the electric cooling fan is the only required item. You need to make room for that intercooler. It might be a good time to upgrade to an 86/87 computer and chip at this time so it can control the cooling fan. The chip burner programs the temperature the fan(s) turn on, that way you don't have to install an extra sensor or leave the fans running all the time. I think my JL chip turn the fans on at 165. Don't forget the computer will also need an 86/87 MAF and MAT sensor.
You will need intake manifold gaskets, I would replace the oil return and PCV grommets. While the intake is off it would be a good time to drill and tap the extra boss next to the temperature sender if you plan on installing a temperature guage. I would probably do this anyway just in case you decide to install one later, just put a plug in after tapping if this is the case. My autometer sender required an 1/8" NPT tap. Also a good time to put in a new 160 thermostat and gasket. I replaced my leaking valve cover gaskets with rubber style gaskets at this time. You may need extra vacuum line to reach the new vacuum block that comes with the kit, actually it would be a good time replace all vacuum lines if they haven't been replaced recently.
The kit comes with a longer throttle cable but mine did not come with a longer cruise control cable. I never use my cruise control anyway, so no biggy. It comes with electrical connectors to reach the TPS and IAC connections. The original TV cable should reach no problem.
I had Jason send the thottle body to Jay Jackson to get hogged out to 62/65mm. He then modified the hole in the intake to the size of the back of the TB. If you don't plan on putting on big injectors and turbo there probably isn't much of a point in doing this. If you do decide to do this be sure to ask him about it when you place the order so he can get it back from Jay Jackson by the time he finishes your kit.
He no longer modifies the turbo mount/shield. Too many people saying that it's a bad idea I guess. I ended up cutting a window out in mine, it makes it a hell of a lot easier getting that oil return line back in the grommet. It can be quite difficult to do this especially with a new oil return grommet.
I don't have my kit totally installed yet due to miscellaneaous problems associated with a PT54 turbo in a hotair style configuration. It's compressor housing is quite a bit bigger in diameter than a TA series turbo. This means I have to mount it slightly higher to clear the intake manifold. This in turn requires modifications to both the up pipe and down pipe. I will try to get a picture of my progress next weekend and post it here.
If you don't already have one an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would probably be a good idea since you will probably need to run a higher static fuel pressure.
I will update this thread if I think of anything else significant.
Allen
I believe the electric cooling fan is the only required item. You need to make room for that intercooler. It might be a good time to upgrade to an 86/87 computer and chip at this time so it can control the cooling fan. The chip burner programs the temperature the fan(s) turn on, that way you don't have to install an extra sensor or leave the fans running all the time. I think my JL chip turn the fans on at 165. Don't forget the computer will also need an 86/87 MAF and MAT sensor.
You will need intake manifold gaskets, I would replace the oil return and PCV grommets. While the intake is off it would be a good time to drill and tap the extra boss next to the temperature sender if you plan on installing a temperature guage. I would probably do this anyway just in case you decide to install one later, just put a plug in after tapping if this is the case. My autometer sender required an 1/8" NPT tap. Also a good time to put in a new 160 thermostat and gasket. I replaced my leaking valve cover gaskets with rubber style gaskets at this time. You may need extra vacuum line to reach the new vacuum block that comes with the kit, actually it would be a good time replace all vacuum lines if they haven't been replaced recently.
The kit comes with a longer throttle cable but mine did not come with a longer cruise control cable. I never use my cruise control anyway, so no biggy. It comes with electrical connectors to reach the TPS and IAC connections. The original TV cable should reach no problem.
I had Jason send the thottle body to Jay Jackson to get hogged out to 62/65mm. He then modified the hole in the intake to the size of the back of the TB. If you don't plan on putting on big injectors and turbo there probably isn't much of a point in doing this. If you do decide to do this be sure to ask him about it when you place the order so he can get it back from Jay Jackson by the time he finishes your kit.
He no longer modifies the turbo mount/shield. Too many people saying that it's a bad idea I guess. I ended up cutting a window out in mine, it makes it a hell of a lot easier getting that oil return line back in the grommet. It can be quite difficult to do this especially with a new oil return grommet.
I don't have my kit totally installed yet due to miscellaneaous problems associated with a PT54 turbo in a hotair style configuration. It's compressor housing is quite a bit bigger in diameter than a TA series turbo. This means I have to mount it slightly higher to clear the intake manifold. This in turn requires modifications to both the up pipe and down pipe. I will try to get a picture of my progress next weekend and post it here.
If you don't already have one an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would probably be a good idea since you will probably need to run a higher static fuel pressure.
I will update this thread if I think of anything else significant.
Allen
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
They pretty much covererd whats needed for the install. Just a couple more hints too. (should be obvious to most.... cept maybe me 
)
1. make sure ALL clamps are TIGHT, I blew just about every IC hose off until I got them tight enough.
2. make sure you get the PCV and oil return to fit the new grommets BEFORE its on the car. I pushed the pcv one through (even though it was rtv'd in place). Had to pull the intake.
3. With a TA turbo the intake hose (to the maf) is routed a bit different but still fits ok.
4. Make sure you have some good injectors. I'm running 55's, but i'm hunting for 10's....
TurboD:
You will love this kit with a 54 if you have enough converter. I have a 3500 stall AC 9" with a TA-54 w/.85 housing and it spools pretty quick (sometimes a bit too quick on the street ) I cant wait to see what happens with the CNC ported iron heads and the DFI
)1. make sure ALL clamps are TIGHT, I blew just about every IC hose off until I got them tight enough.
2. make sure you get the PCV and oil return to fit the new grommets BEFORE its on the car. I pushed the pcv one through (even though it was rtv'd in place). Had to pull the intake.
3. With a TA turbo the intake hose (to the maf) is routed a bit different but still fits ok.
4. Make sure you have some good injectors. I'm running 55's, but i'm hunting for 10's....
TurboD:
You will love this kit with a 54 if you have enough converter. I have a 3500 stall AC 9" with a TA-54 w/.85 housing and it spools pretty quick (sometimes a bit too quick on the street
) I cant wait to see what happens with the CNC ported iron heads and the DFI Nice write up....
Good to get some advance pointers from guys that have been there / done that.
I hope to upgrade to the TM I/C kit in the winter or early spring....
What are some of the results guys are getting from there cars...? I'm interested on daily driver type cars.....anyone ?
Nocooler ? TType85 ? Turbod ?
Good to get some advance pointers from guys that have been there / done that.
I hope to upgrade to the TM I/C kit in the winter or early spring....
What are some of the results guys are getting from there cars...? I'm interested on daily driver type cars.....anyone ?
Nocooler ? TType85 ? Turbod ?
No Dyno test
I haven't done any dyno testing. All I did was get a few 0 - 60 readings on the g-tech. My best out of 4 tries was a lousy 8.25 seconds. BFGoodrich radial TA's don't seem to get great traction but even if they did I don't think my times wouldn't have been much better.
I have no results at all yet since I haven't finished my modifications. Fabrication takes a bit of time and I only work on it on the weekends. I still have to modify both the up pipe and down pipe as well as install new motor mounts, hook up the test pipe to the exhaust, install the racegate and plumbing, figure out and run my vacuum lines. That should get it running, then once I run most of the gas out of the tank I will install my Walbro 340 and hotwire kit. I still have to hook up all my guages; coolant temp, oil pressure, and boost.
I'm not sure if I will be able to install the electic fuel pressure guage, the throttle body linkage comes close to the fitting on the fuel rail and the pressure sender is a bit bulky (the same size as the oil pressure sender). This one may stay on the back burner for a while.
That's where I'm at now, hopefully after this weekend I will be closer to finished.
Allen
I haven't done any dyno testing. All I did was get a few 0 - 60 readings on the g-tech. My best out of 4 tries was a lousy 8.25 seconds. BFGoodrich radial TA's don't seem to get great traction but even if they did I don't think my times wouldn't have been much better.
I have no results at all yet since I haven't finished my modifications. Fabrication takes a bit of time and I only work on it on the weekends. I still have to modify both the up pipe and down pipe as well as install new motor mounts, hook up the test pipe to the exhaust, install the racegate and plumbing, figure out and run my vacuum lines. That should get it running, then once I run most of the gas out of the tank I will install my Walbro 340 and hotwire kit. I still have to hook up all my guages; coolant temp, oil pressure, and boost.
I'm not sure if I will be able to install the electic fuel pressure guage, the throttle body linkage comes close to the fitting on the fuel rail and the pressure sender is a bit bulky (the same size as the oil pressure sender). This one may stay on the back burner for a while.
That's where I'm at now, hopefully after this weekend I will be closer to finished.
Allen
As far a times......mine is still in the works. I have yet to make a good pass with the car. If its not one thing it is another. As far as daily driving - it is plain awsome, 20psi on 94 octane pump fuel and 22* of timing all of the time! I am having some turbo issues, the Ta49 I bought needs attention and the stocker that Twins loaned me is was to small. I had a cheeta on it and loved it but the turbo let go @ 20psi (no more compressor wheel). I'll get it all sorted out and put down some decent times on pump gas/street tires/thru the exhuast.
