Short/Load killing Battery

[s3dcollier]

I posted earlier with an issue where my battery seems to keep dying when the car is not being used longer then a day. I keep charging it and finally the altenator croked. The car broke down the same where the cd player started skipping, blinking on/off. Looked at the Scan Master and the voltage went any where from 6.8 - 10 volts. Advance Auto tested the alt. off the car and was only getting 10 volts out of it. Wow, thought It was over. Even had them change the battery out after getting car back together and battery being dead after 2 days of not running. I had the altenator off the car and let the car sit. Thinking the battery was the problem, my scan master after replacing battery and altenator still reads between 12.8 - 13.6 volts. When I first got the car 5 months ago, I was steady around 13.8. Last post someone said that was even a little low. I pulled all the fuses in the car (some killed the engine) and pulling one by one, no change in voltage. I disconnected both relays for fan under hood still no change. I disconnected the Ac plugs, still not difference. I am stuck. I still don't think the reading is good and that there is a short or something pulling a load off the battery while running and or when it's off. Any suggetions of where to look next would be great. Car does have an up and down idle, but that was there when I got it too. Car does not lack balls in any way. She gets up and goes. Chrips in 2nd gear. Hauls ass. The only modified wire I see is on the temperature sending unit, it has been regrounded by the altenator bolt. If you disconnect this, the fan doesn't work (haven't checked during any high temperature, thermostat is 160). Car is also missing the Fan Delay Relay. Fan stays on all the time when Car is on.

 

[BABY BOEING]

Remove your negative termanal with the key off and place a test light inbetween with the clip attached to the cabal and the probe to the negative side of the battery. If the test light lights you have a draw. Their will usually be a small draw caused by you radio to keep it's presets and time but the test light will be very dim.

On a charged battery with the engine at idle your votage will not be very high, 13 volts is normal. To properly test it you would have to bring it to be load tested. They would connect the termals to your battery for a voltage reading and the an inducive lead to the positive wire off the alt. Then while reving your engine to about 2000-2500 rpm's load your battery which will full field your alt. and the inductive lead will read the amps. produced. Or for a easier method hold your volt meter on the battery and get your voltage reading. Have some one start the car and if the voltage while running is higher than the votage with the key off it's charging. Hope this helps.

 

[s3dcollier]

Ok, did what you said, I started pulling fuses. Found the Cig/Lit pulsing. It was not as bright as test light can get by far. I am going to get a multimeter with amperage ability to see the amps or milliamps it's drawing. This fuse knocks out my radio and interior lights. It also makes the test light dead if fuse is removed. I'll have to check again to see if it knocks out my power windows. Going to check the wiring on the radio, but I am sure that's fine. Presets stay and deck turns off when key is off, so I don't think my wires are crossed. Even without this fuse in the block, volts were 13.6 or lower. I will get amper draw and post back. Maybe it was just a bad battery to begin with. I hope it is that easy.