School me on oil catch cans

The Granny

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2015
I'm planning on getting an oil catch can for the valve covers only. I've got aftermarket valve covers. I was looking into getting push in adapters that'll have either a -10 or -12 AN fitting on the exterior. I've read about people venting their cans back into the MAF or throttle body, what exactly does this accomplish/why is it needed? Why couldn't I just run a hose from the push in adapter to a catch can with a breather on top and call it a day? My car is without a MAF pipe also, running speed density
 
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I'm planning on getting an oil catch can for the valve covers only. I've got aftermarket valve covers. I was looking into getting push in adapters that'll have either a -10 or -12 AN fitting on the exterior. I've read about people venting their cans back into the MAF or throttle body, what exactly does this accomplish/why is it needed? Why couldn't I just run a hose from the push in adapter to a catch can with a breather on top and call it a day? My car is without a MAF pipe also, running speed density

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/complete-systems


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Why post a link link that he knows where to buy them

I would just run the lines to a catch can or 2 and call it good. No need to get fancy.


Ive never heard anyone runing tuem back into the intake setup. I've heard them doing that to the bov but thats different

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People run it back into the intake if the oil vapor smell bothers them, i mounted my can and breather right by the air filter which seems to suck up most of the smell.
 

thanks for the link but I've looked there and know they sell them, I'm trying to get an understanding of the system and how it works though based on what I've read on this forum about catch cans, some of it was confusing me.

Why post a link link that he knows where to buy them

I would just run the lines to a catch can or 2 and call it good. No need to get fancy.


Ive never heard anyone runing tuem back into the intake setup. I've heard them doing that to the bov but thats different

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that's what I was thinking would work, I don't see why it wouldn't but I read about people saying they do it like that and then run a line back to the MAF pipe for some reason? not too sure how or why you'd need to, but I just wanted some more clarity on why they were doing it so I can get a complete picture. but if I can just run lines from the covers to a can and be good then that's definitely what I'll do. I'll try to find those posts I found about people saying they route a line back to the MAF or TB so you can know what I was looking at.

thank you guys. as far as the smell that's not something I'll be too worried about, I don't think I'll have an issue with it.



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here's one of the posts I came across mentioning routing back into the MAF pipe.


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As mentioned thats how theyre set up stock, the reason people run open breathers is so the turbo isnt sucking up hot oily goo- which would be greatly reduced by the catch can. I have a catch can on my pcv as well and im always surprised how much stuff it catches. As for the smell, i thought id be fine with it but on a hot summer day in traffic with the windows open when the fan comes on it gets pretty unpleasant. Try just the simple can(s) with breathers, you can always remove the breathers and pipe the cans back into the intake if you wanna change it up. Also, the cans will probably be more effective with some vacuum drawing the vapor from the motor vs just pushing out to atmosphere.
 
The stock system used PCV(Positive crankcase ventilation)to clear the crankcase of unwanted oil vapor.
It used the funny cap on girlfriend side to provide ventilation under part throttle or high vacuum,under boost PCV closed and the vented cover hooked to turbo inlet would pull the unwonted vapors out,pull a little vacuum on the crankcase and free up some horsepower.
This is why some race cars use a vacuum pump with a catch can.
I don't see how hooking a catch can to the valve cover will do much.
Catch can hooked to PCV only works under vacuum,hooked to turbo inlet it will work most all the time as soon as your off idle
 
Since I live in Ontario Canada, the MOE (Ministry of Environment) are enforcing at random roadside spot checks for emission compliant vehicles. This means for vehicles licensed to drive on the roads, nothing vented to the atmosphere / no open breathers. The fine for each open breather is $375 .
This is why both my valve covers are routed into a single catch can and back into the MAF pipe just before the turbo. This is a closed system similar in concept to what the factory used. My PCV is vented into the second catch can, then a check valve and back into the dog house plenum, catching any oil that would have gone into my turbo / intercooler.
Additionally they are enforcing the use of a catalytic convertor, with another $375 fine if it's not on the vehicle. I run a hi flow metal matrix catalytic convertor that flows well over 500 CFM so it doesn't choke the exhaust flow like a standard unit would.
 
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The PCV system is for emissions, it recaptures combustion byproducts from the crankcase, and ideally routes them back into the intake to be burned off and run through the catalytic convertor. You want it routed back into the intake after the MAF, but before the turbocharger. That's because everything in the crankcase has already been metered by the MAF and running it through the MAF again can soil the MAF and cause BLM issues. Dumping it to atmosphere also can cause BLM issues, and it smells bad. And it's really bad for the air. Crankcase emissions cause almost as much pollution as the tailpipe.

Plus pulling a vacuum in the crankcase gets air out from under the pistons, which frees up a little bit of power and helps the rings seal better.

I finally got my setup working properly with two catch cans. I ran two PCV circuits. One using the normal PCV port under the plenum, through a high-end check valve to a catch can, and then back into the intake at the plenum. I used a check valve because the OE PCV will leak under higher-than-stock boost and pressurize your crankcase, which makes a huge mess.

The second circuit runs from the valve covers to another catch can, then into the intake pipe between the MAF and the turbo.

In normal operation (vacuum), the check valve on the original circuit is open, and fresh metered air is drawn into the valve covers, through the PCV opening in the lifter valley, through the catch can, and into the intake to be burned. When the boost comes on the check valve closes and the flow reverses. The turbocharger pulls the gasses out of the valve covers, through the second catch can, and into the intake tract.

My system has been working quite well. The car doesn't leak oil anymore, even under extended runs at high boost. I used to get a lot of water/oil mix in the original circuit catch can, but once I switched to a push-loc vacuum setup that all disappeared. I'm guessing the old stuff was leaking so bad it was letting a lot more water into the crankcase. My idle really stabilized when I switched to the new vacuum lines, so it was leaking. I just get a little bit of sludge and sometimes a little water if it's a really humid day. I don't get anything in the valve cover catch can except an oily coating on the inside, nothing collects in the bottom. The breathers I'm using have oil separators in them, so most of the oil is draining back into the valve covers and not making it to the can. I may eliminate the second can.
 
Got some pictures of that set up?
 
Got some pictures of that set up?

I wrote up the install a few years ago:

http://blog.andrewdscott.com/?p=72

There are some pictures, but to be honest, these engine bays are so full of hoses that a picture doesn't really help much. I did do some close-ups on the brass check valve, the breathers, and both catch cans. I mounted the "original circuit" catch can down next to the intercooler, and the valve cover catch can is bolted to the power steering reservoir.
 
I used a small JLT catch can mounted next to the AC dryer for the PCV with a check valve. Valve covers have fittings welded to them and hoses run up to a GN1 vented catch can mounted to the core support under the drivers side headlights.
 
Thank you every for replying. It makes sense now why I couldn't understand the routing back into the MAF portion I had been reading about, the car wasn't stock when I got it. I live in Texas so emissions aren't a concern for me. I'm going to try out a simple set up first, push in adapters with lines to a can with a vent/filter on top to release to the atmosphere and see how it works. If I get bothered by the smells or it doesn't do an adequate job of pulling the oil out I'll look into something more advanced, like a pump that was mentioned.


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Turbo6inKY... Great info in your blog... thanks for the info.

How do we get this pinned? I think everyone could benefit from this info.
 
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