Removing Smog/Useless Emissions Equipment off my 83 Buick T-Type

[nothingman]

Sorry I know there are posts on here somewhere that would help but I can't seem to find them, I've done quite a bit of searching... I've only found some dead ends. Also not worried about emissions testing because in AZ I'm safe.

Any post(s) which explain the smog/emissions equipment that is safe to remove and how to do it, without making my car run bad or not run at all?

I'm mostly hoping to lose the smog pump and those shitty tubes running across the engine compartment cluttering it up, getting in the way when I have to make repairs :/ Also hoping to cut down on the crazy amount of vacuum lines heh. I believe this car was originally a California which I think adds even more useless emissions garbage. I've read a little about removing the EGR stuff... I'd have to buy a new computer chip in order for it to run correctly? Any help or link to some schematics, maybe a tutorial?

I figured I might as well tackle this issue while I have the turbo assembly off the car. Thanks folks!

 

[b4black]

For the SMOG pump
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/before-black/26340-smog-pump-thread.html

On the EGR, I don't see any benefit to removing it. It's disables itself at WOT. With it unhooked, it will knock while cruising down the highway. You can't get new computer chips for the carb engines.

 

[nothingman]

thanks for the link. they didn't get too detailed but am i understanding that i can remove the two valves above the power steering pump on the right side, the tubes running to them, the smog pump, the charcoal canister and the miscellaneous vacuum lines running to them and as long as i plug the tube that runs to the cat my car should run fine without any computer issues? i have attached two pics of the valves and another what looks to be a solenoid that i can remove correct?

 

[b4black]

Yes, those can be removed. One of the air tube goes to the catalytic converter, the other to the back of the intake manifold (behind the turbo). There is a check valve at the manifold. For me, the check valve didn't stay closed, so I stuck a big (½"?) bolt into the hose where the tube was to block it off. Later, I unscrewed the check valve and put a pipe plug in it's place.