KR under moderate acceleration.

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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So my car has been sitting for about 2 months while I sorted out my hydroboost system.

Before parking it I was reading 7 or 8* of kr at wot. Suspecting false knock I installed new motor mounts.

Also during the hydroboost install I noticed the car getting really hot and the pump gasket was leaking. I put in 160* thermostat new water pump and gn1 aluminum radiator because my old one was full of gunk. Now the car rarely seems to get over 120*

Now that I have the car back on the road I'm getting 1.2* of kr at about 60% throttle and 4.0 at wot. Car also seems to run lean at idle no matter what I set my translator to.
 

MaxVO2

Lemur with a long Femur
Jul 24, 2004
368
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Rockville, MD
****How are BLM's at idle? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Also, since the car has sat some, it is possible that you perhaps have dirty or gunked up injectors. If you pull the up pipe off and look in the throttle body, is it all soaked with oil or carbon deposits? Have you done a proper tune and spring cleaning?

Pull the plugs and check the overall condition, and whether they are worn or showing any sign of fouling, which could be coming from a numer of places.

Anyway, just some things to consider off the top of my bald head.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
Nov 6, 2006
4,564
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So my car has been sitting for about 2 months while I sorted out my hydroboost system.

Before parking it I was reading 7 or 8* of kr at wot. Suspecting false knock I installed new motor mounts.

Also during the hydroboost install I noticed the car getting really hot and the pump gasket was leaking. I put in 160* thermostat new water pump and gn1 aluminum radiator because my old one was full of gunk. Now the car rarely seems to get over 120*

Now that I have the car back on the road I'm getting 1.2* of kr at about 60% throttle and 4.0 at wot. Car also seems to run lean at idle no matter what I set my translator to.
verify 1to 1rise,then pump pressure and afr.the car should never knock,octane,volume,drivertrain parts hitting etc all play a role
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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So far couldn't get to op temp to get accurate blm. just sits at 115, if I drive hard and park the blm climbs slowly to 134.
Throttle body is clean. Spark plugs and wires are brand new and properly gapped.

Did fuel pressure test when I was chasing the false knock, 38 at idle and climbing with boost. I can get a rental guage and re-confirm. Its got a new delphi pump and filter.

Other than the numbers the car has never run so good. I don't hear any knock. The hr partsnstuff mounts are doing their job. I confirmed the false knock condition, there is a dent on the bottom of the down pipe where I had been hitting the control arm. My old mounts were toast I can flex them to their maximum by hand.

I'll put my old 180* thermostat in and see what happens. I think the new one is allowing fluid to bypass, it shouldn't even be starting to open at 120.
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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Ohhh yeah thermostat is bad. popped the hose off the housing and the car burped its entire contents onto the floor through the ice cold thermostat. Nice, thanks autozone.
 
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We4ever

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Aug 13, 2019
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Put the new thermostat in. Car gets to op temp now, no other changes.

warm idle blm 136.
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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af04
l8 34
bat14.3
int jumps between 122 - 133
bl 136-139
rmp 775
tps .42
iac 16
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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So I replaced the PCv valve and now BLMs are at 156 at idle and the car stumbles if you try to give it any boost. :( limped the car to autozone and did another pressure test. 38# rising with boost. Put in a bottle of octane booster and it didn't help.
 

Boostrules

Member
Mar 16, 2013
129
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So I replaced the PCv valve and now BLMs are at 156 at idle and the car stumbles if you try to give it any boost. :( limped the car to autozone and did another pressure test. 38# rising with boost. Put in a bottle of octane booster and it didn't help.
What octane booster? Should use a proven one like Boostane, the off the shelf ones at the local parts store like autozone etc. are BS.
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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I used the off the shelf bs got it on rewards card so I'm not out any monies
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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Well my problems are worse, car stumbles and cuts out under boost and car is running lean and I can't figure out why
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
142
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I got the fancy brass PCv from kirban. Intercooler and pipes looked ok, I'll pull the cooler tonight and take a closer look
 

grass doctor

Well-Known Member
Sep 21, 2018
1,536
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sounds like something not right after you changed you pcv valve , maybe disturbed some other vacuum lines or something ,

The PCV is a controlled vacuum leak. That is why I like AC Delco one ( CV893) . If you use aftermarket PCV's then each one of those may have a different size opening, but you say you got from Kirban so IDK

BLM's will always go up when you have a PCV vs when you dont. So a motor with a plugged PCV should be below 120 on BL.

check vacuum block gaskets, make sure the hoses are nice and soft not hard(leaky), etc.
 

We4ever

Member
Aug 13, 2019
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I'm also getting Mal code 44. I've squirted cleaner on the vac block and all visible lines and can't find any leaks.
 

grass doctor

Well-Known Member
Sep 21, 2018
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saint augustine fl
CODE 44
Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the ECM to increase injector on-time (thus increasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate > 128 by a substantial margin.
The conditions for setting this code are:
  • no Code 33 or Code 34 (MAF Error) present, and
  • the O2 sensor voltage remains below 250 mVolts, and
  • the ECM is in Closed Loop control, and
  • the above conditions exist for more than 50 seconds.
Typical causes for this code include:
1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM