Just looked at a 85 T type, info please?

Wahoo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
I just looked at this 85 t type, the body is pretty straight and rust free but needs paint badly, bumper fillers both sets, it has 95k miles seems to run ok.

Took it for a test drive and floored it and at high rpms it hit boost for a couple seconds and then I heard a clicking noise? It only did this once, I floored it a few other times and it didnt make the noise.

Also what was strange was that the digital rpm tach said it was idling at around 1,200rpm.
Another strange thing was it idled fine but then I closed the hood and the idle kinda went down and then back up like it had to find idle, did this for about 30seconds up and down idle.

No smoke when starting or giving throttle and letting off.

The car had a very small amount of rust on the corners of the doors and a small dent near the rear quarter wheel well.

A major problem I found was it seemed to have an oil leak and it was dripping on the exhaust crossover near the oil pain, I couldn't see it dripping so probably wasnt a fast leak but it was hitting that crossover under the engine so I don't know where the leaks from, could be rear main seal? Or just a valve cover? But seems like it would be hard to fix even the valve cover gasket with the turbo right above it(passenger side).


He wants like 3k, does this week like a good deal? Non t top car, red interior, also hvac controls don't work, the blower wire was unplugged under the good because if it was plugged in the blower would turn on and you couldn't turn it off the hvac buttons wouldn't respond.

Car is completely stock. Needs a battery too, seems like it struggled to turn the starter fast, took 5-7sec to start cranking slow at first, so might be the starter.
 
Oil leak is most likely the rear main seal, which is a very common issue. The clicking could be a header crack. The tach not working right isn't uncommon at all, but you'll need to send it to Caspers electronics to get it fixed. I'm guessing that it's got the climate control style AC and it's a pain if things aren't working right. Parts for them are hard to find and no one's making them anymore.

$3K isn't a bad price but I'm with Derrik here. See if he'll take less since it's going to need some work as well as $ to get everything right.
 
Yeah the climate control has buttons that don't really click, and nothing responded. The thing thats good is its rust free but has some minor rust. I think it might be the rear main seal, how hard is that to fix?

So you think the clicks at high boost is the headers hitting something or what?
 
How much are budget after marketer headers for these hot airs? I need to price out everything with this car to see what it's worth it in the end.

Both sets of fillers $?$?

Headers and possible turbo $?$

Climate control $?$

Battery $70. Unless its the starter...$$$

Also forgot to stat the headliner is shot too $?$

Can anyone give me some rough estimates of the costs of the above parts? I did try to search for the bumper fillers but I'm having trouble.


Then ill need at least a scanmaster too
 
Fillers run all over the place as far as price. I've seen them as low as $60 each or you can get a set from spoolfool and those are about $600 each end, but the fit and finish are great so very little hassle fitting them.

After market headers? Find a used set of postons (good luck there), speed daddy headers that need modification to work, custom made (now there's some $), or fix the stockers.

AC controls can be switched over to manual fairly inexpensively.

You can get a mini starter for a SBC powered car, which is the same as the RWD Buick. Evilbay has them for under $100, or go to a parts store and find one for a 95 (?) vette if I remember right. Battery isn't that expensive either if you think about it.

Headliner can be gotten as an ABS replacement and I think it's about $120. Check G body for them.
 
I wish this car had t tops, the guy said he paid $2,800 for it and he won't go lower than that... I'm not sure if I should just do it. Maybe I should drive it again at least to see if I can hear that clicking noise.
 
I wish this car had t tops, the guy said he paid $2,800 for it and he won't go lower than that... I'm not sure if I should just do it. Maybe I should drive it again at least to see if I can hear that clicking noise.

Run away and do not look back. You just saved yourself 10k. Brad
 
Run away and do not look back. You just saved yourself 10k. Brad

What do you mean I just saved myself 10k? I would buy the car in hopes the engine doesn't have any issues but if it were to pop I would swap a junkyard 5.3 and then turbo that.
 
What do you mean I just saved myself 10k? I would buy the car in hopes the engine doesn't have any issues but if it were to pop I would swap a junkyard 5.3 and then turbo that.

By the time you get the car figured out and upgraded your wallet will be 10,000 lighter. just get an 86/87. Brad
 
By the time you get the car figured out and upgraded your wallet will be 10,000 lighter. just get an 86/87. Brad
Thanks for the advice, don't you have an 85 though? If you could do it over again you would go 86/87?
 
Thanks for the advice, don't you have an 85 though? If you could do it over again you would go 86/87?
Yes- I am probably the only fool left who has one that runs perfectly. I should have converted it to an 86/87 the day I bought it 10 years ago. Brad
 
There are a few of us like Brad, who got stuck on the HA design. Maybe we're masochists or just trying to be under dogs. A HA car is one of the hardest type to build up and switching to the IC (86-87) is much easier since there's a lot of parts out there for you modify it. When it comes to a HA car you have to either find parts that aren't made anymore or make them yourself. This also leads to a lot of experimentation and research which means $$$$. If you want an easy way to go fast buy an LS based car and get it over with since this will let you make some fun power easily.;) If you want to convert your car to LS power it will cost more than buying one that came with an LS engine. If you want to convert to the IC design that will also cost.

There's really no way around it but no matter what you do it's going to cost something so pick a direction and be prepared to spend some cash to get where you want to be.
 
I think that we all have to face the facts. A perfect Turbo Regal is going to cost quite a bit. An imperfect Turbo Regal is gonna be less to start with but will cost quite a bit in the end. Both will have tons of future costs because when most people get interested in these cars they will start upgrading and tuning not to mention the normal maintenance on an aging car.

The decision to get this car should be answered by the following questions:

Are you willing to put in the time and money to get the car in the condition YOU want?

Are you willing to put in the time and money to get the car running the way YOU want?

Will working on the car be fun for YOU?

Remember it's your time and your money so it has to be a car that you can have fun with.
 
The clicking noise he is hearing could very well be DETONATION. I would RUN from that car as fast as I could, if you want a Turbo Buick get an 86/87, you can find one that needs the same amount of work for I'd say 6,000 give or take a few, and you dump a couple more into it you will have a nice fun ride. But like the gentleman stated up here, these cars LOVE MONEY, and you WILL be out 10k after it is all said and done for a nice fun vehicle.
 
We'll what I wanted to do if i got a g body (I love and want one) was to swap a junk yard 4.8/5.3/6.0 and use mega squirt for fuel and ignition.

This car of all the g body's has the strongest rearend, so I won't need to worry about that.

The car I'm looking at is also very clean and rust free for what it is, and I never see these around. I won't have to travel for it.

I wouldn't mind working on my car when it comes to performance modifications, I also always wanted to paint a car myself so maybe this will be the car.

I'm surprised not that many hot air guys came in and said Do It! I know there are fast hot airs!

I always wanted a turbo car too, so idk if I should just bite the bullet...
 
We'll what I wanted to do if i got a g body (I love and want one) was to swap a junk yard 4.8/5.3/6.0 and use mega squirt for fuel and ignition.

This car of all the g body's has the strongest rearend, so I won't need to worry about that.

The car I'm looking at is also very clean and rust free for what it is, and I never see these around. I won't have to travel for it.

I wouldn't mind working on my car when it comes to performance modifications, I also always wanted to paint a car myself so maybe this will be the car.

I'm surprised not that many hot air guys came in and said Do It! I know there are fast hot airs!

I always wanted a turbo car too, so idk if I should just bite the bullet...

Sounds like you are commited to burn through 13K. Crap- for a three thousand more you can have it all now. Brad
 
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