Giving up on boost issue

[Daledammit]

Sorry I posted that twice I'm new to posting on here have just used it for 10 years to problem solve. Everything I've ever had I felt I could offer to help someone always beat me to it and posted it already.

I have checked to make sure the puck does swing freely when disconnected from the gate so it's not stuck or anything but I know that doesn't mean it's sealing completely either.

Will post updates from gauge swap shortly

 

[Daledammit]

Ok swapped the gauge for a known good autometer gauge, vacuum showed identical and a 1lb difference in boost showing 11lbs consistently with the hose run straight from the compressor nipple to the wastegate.

I'm thinking this is just a normal variance on the cars, mine may not make as much boost as others with a stock gate.
I was going to try the other turbonetics valve just to make sure one wasn't junk. Looked at the diagram for hose hookups that came with it and realized the picture was an external wastegate. It doesn't show how to hook up for an internal gate. I think i have tried to hook it up for the wrong setup. I was hooking it up inline instead of using it to bleed off to the atmosphere. I know I said I was using a bleeder valve and that probably misled everyone's thinking because I thought I was setup the right way. I'm going to T into it in the morning and see. If anyone has a picture of the right way to do it I'd be grateful. I never posted any pics of my setup because I had taken it off and was focused on not getting 13 lb boost without it and I'm sure everybody would have noticed immediately. I do apologize for that.

 

[Daledammit]

Ok swapped the gauge for a known good autometer gauge, vacuum showed identical and a 1lb difference in boost showing 11lbs consistently with the hose run straight from the compressor nipple to the wastegate.

I'm thinking this is just a normal variance on the cars, mine may not make as much boost as others with a stock gate.
I was going to try the other turbonetics valve just to make sure one wasn't junk. Looked at the diagram for hose hookups that came with it and realized the picture was an external wastegate. It doesn't show how to hook up for an internal gate. I think i have tried to hook it up for the wrong setup. I was hooking it up inline instead of using it to bleed off to the atmosphere. I know I said I was using a bleeder valve and that probably misled everyone's thinking because I thought I was setup the right way. I'm going to T into it in the morning and see. If anyone has a picture of the right way to do it I'd be grateful. I never posted any pics of my setup because I had taken it off and was focused on not getting 13 lb boost without it and I'm sure everybody would have noticed immediately. I do apologize for that.

 

[hensleyt]

When I disconnect the hose to it, it will make 20lb boost under throttle.

mine did almost the same thing when i got my TB 10 years ago.it was less I think 16 unhooked 10 hooked
It was a pluming problem ! I just cant remember what it was . I know that is no help.
In that Pic the pluming just dose not look right

 

[hensleyt]

Note that the waste gate solenoid has two ports...one is connected to the "Y" hose arrangement from the actuator and compressor housing. The other is open to the atmosphere. From the factory, there was a small piece of foam attached to the open port as a filter. It does not matter which port the "Y" hose is connected to. This pertains to the intercooled cars only.

In the plastic "y", one end has a small restrictor in it. This restrictor is connected to the compressor housing port. The hole in the restrictor is normally .045-.050". Boost control will not be right if the hole diameter does not fit into this range. Some dealer replacements do not. The function of this restrictor is to prevent the waste gate solenoid from being overwhelmed by the volume of the boost coming from the compressor port and thereby being rendered ineffective.

Connect the "y" in reverse with the restrictor leg going to the actuator and you will have 12# of boost with a stock actuator and about 17# with an HD model. Shortening the waste gate rod will not do much in this case.

 

[TTA976]

Throw the plastic T away. Run a Hallman boost controller and hook one hose from the BC to the actuator and one hose from the BC to the compressor nipple. Make sure your puck is sealing and moving freely. You gonna have to preload your actuator. Turn the rod out 4 or 5 turns and hook it to the spindle. You can use an angled pliers to connect. You shouldn't need more preload than that. Adjust from there with the BC. If you maxed your BC you will need to turn the rod more.(but don't forget to turn down the BC so you don't over boost).. more than 8 or 9 turns of the rod you need a different wg. Anyway turn the BC half way in and go from there...

 

[TTA976]

..

 

[TTA976]

..

 

[Jerryl]

The "Y" in the picture is not the stock unit and is most likely missing the orifice.

 

[Daledammit]

Okay thanks, I have another Y connector from an old car I'll try it. The Y in the picture does have a restricted side in it but the hole size may be wrong. I have a stock wastegate so I can't adj. it. I plan on replacing it obviously but I wanted to fix this first before adding another variable. I know the plumbing looks wrong, it turned over before the pic but the angled leg of the Y is going to the wastegate and the straight piece goes to the compressor and the solenoid.
I was able to achieve more boost with a ball and spring brass bleeder inline from compr to wastegate from my old car. 15lbs is all it will take without knock but at least I can get more than 10lb now.
The turbonetics bleeder I never could get to cooperate. I did note there's a big size diff in the ports on ball and spring versus the turbonetics, I'm wondering if the ports are too small to let enough pressure off fast enough. The ports are the ones that came with it though.

 

[aminga]

I see you are from Alabama but not sure what part. Here is a thread from some N.Alabama members. Maybe you could reach out and contact them for some help.
If they are not in your area you could start a thread of your own. To let members know where in the state you need help. There could be someone right down the road from you. Another set of eyes can be a big help some times.

http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/n-alabama-tr-owners-sound-off.427493/

What he said

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Turn the rod out 4 or 5 turns and hook it to the spindle.

Out, or in, as in shorten??

 

[Ttype6]

Don't allow any boost pressure to act on the actuator,then see how much boost it will make. Ease into the throttle gently in third gear since there is a possibility of over boost.

 

[hensleyt]

I see you can adjust boost with the aftermarket ball and spring so all is good with the health of the turbo and cat.
So it's boost solinoid , plumbing or chip
I did not see what chip it has in the car,did I miss that in one of your post?

 

[aminga]

I see you can adjust boost with the aftermarket ball and spring so all is good with the health of the turbo and cat.
So it's boost solinoid , plumbing or chip
I did not see what chip it has in the car,did I miss that in one of your post?

The chip does not set the boost.

 

[hensleyt]

Your are correct if he stays with a aftermarket boost controller
It dose if he is trying to use the stock boost controller
It seems like he keeps going back that way(stock)
It works very good for street use and a DD

 

[aminga]

Your are correct if he stays with a aftermarket boost controller
It dose if he is trying to use the stock boost controller
It seems like he keeps going back that way(stock)
It works very good for street use and a DD

The ECM only controls the duty cycle of that solenoid. Yes it lowers the boost but not directly

 

[Ttype6]

Yes it lowers the boost but not directly

The computer can only raise the boost level above the level that the wastegate can produce on it's own based on the wastegate actuator's spring pressure. When the boost solenoid is not energized,the boost pressure is based on a pressure signal from the compressor to the actuator. The only thing that the solenoid can do is interrupt that signal by bleeding some of the pressure off into the atmosphere which results in less force acting on the wastegate actuator which opens the wastegate a lesser amount forcing more exhaust energy to flow through the turbine. This raises the boost.

 

[Daledammit]

Sorry guys had a storm and a tree fell on my garage, been too busy to work on the car for awhile and check this thread. Stock chip is in it. I do keep going back to stock boost control just trying to eliminate any additional issues. I've had faster buicks before but my goal with this one is just to get the most I can out of mostly stock parts, so I can work on it because I want not because I have to because I tore something up again. Whatever the issue was I can bypass it with a bleeder now at least. Car runs fine so I'm gonna let it go til it creates a problem. My plans are kinda put on hold til I get the reconstruction on the garage finished. Oh and no cars or motorcycles were hurt. Just temporarily trapped inside and a couple of scratches that will buff out. Thanks for all the input you guys had, I learned a lot just trying to solve this that I'm sure will pay off later.