After trying to find information on setting up a fuel system for an external fuel pump and not finding much help - at least not much for someone on a budget like mine (namely as cheap as possible)
I ended up MacGyvering my own setup.
I am aiming for low 11's / high 10's and need more fuel than a single 340 can provide. However, I didn't feel comfortable with a dual pump system out of a (probably unreasonable) fear of leaning out if one should fail - so my alternative was to go external. Another reason for this choice was that I had gotten a Aeromotive A1000 series pump with some other assorted parts I had purchased online.
Fuel cells seemed pretty pricy, so I choose to sump a used stock NA tank. I went with the Competition Engineering kit at $60. After calling around to find a radiator shop to clean it out, and getting a no from everyone, I washed it out myself with soap bleach and water. I drained it thoroughly using a shop-vac and blew it dry with my compressor. After doing this multiple times for 3 days straight and smelling no sent of gasoline, I tested the tank by sticking a lit torch in the pump opening - Nothing happened. [I doubt that a tank would explode after taking the precautions I did - with the size of the fuel sender opening it would most likely just cough at you a bit - However, if you try this yourself you do so at your own risk!]
I shaped the sump to fit the tank using a vice to pound the right sized groves to fit the grooved bottom of the tank. I then drilled 5 holes into the tank according to the diagram from Competition Engineering (Circular cutting bits really suck and I would NOT suggest using them. They will just end up giving you more metal filings to worry about later - just drill 5 holes using your biggest regular metal drill bit and cut out the 2 1/2" circles with tin-snips). I then clean both the sump and the tank's surfaces thoroughly with sanding wheel - especially along the area on the tank where the sump would attach. After I had shiny metal surfaces free of debris, I fluxed and brazed both the tank and the sump with 95-5 solder - this will ensure a stronger beading later on. I then fluxed both the tank and the sump and attached the sump to the tank using self-tapping sheet-metal screws (I made sure to drill holes big enough for the screws to fit through around the sump first as it is made of thicker metal and I wanted to be able to "feel" that the screws were getting a solid grip on the tank - this really helps pull the sump and tank close together for a good seal). I brazed the sump onto the tank using a propane torch, flux, and some more 95-5 solder making sure to fill in all the cracks and cover all the screws. I then cleaned out the tank again and again as I had before, plugged the outlets on the sump and tested for leaks.
I chose to go with Russell's fittings - obtained at about $7-14 per at a local Checker's Auto (cheaper online if you already know what you need, try ebay, i did. I got 5 straight -8AN hose ends, one 45* hose end for the fuel rail, and a right angle for out of the sump. You will also need some signaw 1/2" to -8AN male adapters for the filter, and some 10 to -8AN male reducers if you are using an Aeromotive pump). I also ordered 15ft. of Russell's Twist-lok hose in -8 AN for $45 when I ordered the sump (you can opt for stainless steel at twice the price). I also bought one of accel's fuel filters in a 1/2" in and outlet PN 74720 for $30. You should be able to pick up a -8AN to fuel rail adapter at a local Hydro-Air or similar store. If not, Ramchargers carries them for about $10. be sure to hook up the filter in line before the pump. If you can find the right fittings you may be able to save some money by hooking it up straight to the intake side of the pump. I just used regular fuel line to run from the fuel return after the FPR to the stock fuel feed line.
Also, if you are concerned with theft of your pump, you can mount it in the base of the spare tire well and run your lines through holes in the front and rear. It should be at just about level with the outs on the sump. Insulate over the top to help eliminate noise and to isolate the pump from anything that might damage it. Use speaker wire for power.
Cost:
$60 sump
$45 hose
$30 filter
$100 various fittings
$280 Aeromotive Pump ($200 or less if used or if you go with another brand like the paxton unit - it is made by aeromotive anyway)
$20 solder/flux/flux brushes/screws/speaker wire
-----------------
$535 Total
Tools needed:
Hammer, vice, torch, drill, sandpaper, tin-snips
Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Once again, this is just how I did things and if you follow my method you do so at your own risk.
I ended up MacGyvering my own setup. I am aiming for low 11's / high 10's and need more fuel than a single 340 can provide. However, I didn't feel comfortable with a dual pump system out of a (probably unreasonable) fear of leaning out if one should fail - so my alternative was to go external. Another reason for this choice was that I had gotten a Aeromotive A1000 series pump with some other assorted parts I had purchased online.
Fuel cells seemed pretty pricy, so I choose to sump a used stock NA tank. I went with the Competition Engineering kit at $60. After calling around to find a radiator shop to clean it out, and getting a no from everyone, I washed it out myself with soap bleach and water. I drained it thoroughly using a shop-vac and blew it dry with my compressor. After doing this multiple times for 3 days straight and smelling no sent of gasoline, I tested the tank by sticking a lit torch in the pump opening
- Nothing happened. [I doubt that a tank would explode after taking the precautions I did - with the size of the fuel sender opening it would most likely just cough at you a bit - However, if you try this yourself you do so at your own risk!] I shaped the sump to fit the tank using a vice to pound the right sized groves to fit the grooved bottom of the tank. I then drilled 5 holes into the tank according to the diagram from Competition Engineering (Circular cutting bits really suck and I would NOT suggest using them. They will just end up giving you more metal filings to worry about later - just drill 5 holes using your biggest regular metal drill bit and cut out the 2 1/2" circles with tin-snips). I then clean both the sump and the tank's surfaces thoroughly with sanding wheel - especially along the area on the tank where the sump would attach. After I had shiny metal surfaces free of debris, I fluxed and brazed both the tank and the sump with 95-5 solder - this will ensure a stronger beading later on. I then fluxed both the tank and the sump and attached the sump to the tank using self-tapping sheet-metal screws (I made sure to drill holes big enough for the screws to fit through around the sump first as it is made of thicker metal and I wanted to be able to "feel" that the screws were getting a solid grip on the tank - this really helps pull the sump and tank close together for a good seal). I brazed the sump onto the tank using a propane torch, flux, and some more 95-5 solder making sure to fill in all the cracks and cover all the screws. I then cleaned out the tank again and again as I had before, plugged the outlets on the sump and tested for leaks.
I chose to go with Russell's fittings - obtained at about $7-14 per at a local Checker's Auto (cheaper online if you already know what you need, try ebay, i did
. I got 5 straight -8AN hose ends, one 45* hose end for the fuel rail, and a right angle for out of the sump. You will also need some signaw 1/2" to -8AN male adapters for the filter, and some 10 to -8AN male reducers if you are using an Aeromotive pump). I also ordered 15ft. of Russell's Twist-lok hose in -8 AN for $45 when I ordered the sump (you can opt for stainless steel at twice the price). I also bought one of accel's fuel filters in a 1/2" in and outlet PN 74720 for $30. You should be able to pick up a -8AN to fuel rail adapter at a local Hydro-Air or similar store. If not, Ramchargers carries them for about $10. be sure to hook up the filter in line before the pump. If you can find the right fittings you may be able to save some money by hooking it up straight to the intake side of the pump. I just used regular fuel line to run from the fuel return after the FPR to the stock fuel feed line. Also, if you are concerned with theft of your pump, you can mount it in the base of the spare tire well and run your lines through holes in the front and rear. It should be at just about level with the outs on the sump. Insulate over the top to help eliminate noise and to isolate the pump from anything that might damage it. Use speaker wire for power.
Cost:
$60 sump
$45 hose
$30 filter
$100 various fittings
$280 Aeromotive Pump ($200 or less if used or if you go with another brand like the paxton unit - it is made by aeromotive anyway)
$20 solder/flux/flux brushes/screws/speaker wire
-----------------
$535 Total
Tools needed:
Hammer, vice, torch, drill, sandpaper, tin-snips
Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Once again, this is just how I did things and if you follow my method you do so at your own risk.
