flat tappet cam break in

[jab529]

just wondering for those with flat tappet cams how you went about break in? i have the 206/206 flat tappet comp cam kit installed in my rebuilt stock motor and am not sure how to break them in. comp cam says to remove inner springs before break in, but the machine shop that just installed them and rebuilt my motor said no special break in and just run motor for 30 mins 2000-2500 rpm. here's the kit i have installed http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_i...=1353&osCsid=c30362dd504128812bda92cc3a8d69b4

also, im looking for new bolts for my new water pump but cant seem to find a set online. i found a set with timing cover bolts as well, but i only need the water pump bolts.

meant to type out flat tappet CAM not CAME.

 

[Guess]

That's how I broke in my 204/214. I varied the rpm between 2000-2500(might have been up to 2800. The cam info should give instructions) for 30 minutes. Some say overfill the oil a little bit so you get plenty splashing up on the cam. Drain out excess before driving. I used Joe Gibbs BR30 oil, excellent for flat tappet cams. What oil are you using?

Somebody knows bolt sizes and lengths for the water pump. You may be able to buy them local. Or just call gbodyparts and they may be able to set you up with some.

 

[turbo nasty]

Add ZDDPlus to the oil as well for a more robust high zinc break in.

I would add it to Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, etc.
No harm in high zddp during break in.
The uhh oohhhhs from not having enough is another story.

Didnt click on the link for your cam specs but if it has aggresive lobes and high lift I would break it in with light springs as well.
With mild cam run it in with the springs for the cam.
Be aware of oil psi, fuel leaks, water temp, noises, etc during run in.
I always energize the fule system and then use shop air to PSI the fuel psi regualtor to check for leaks before start up.

Also, let the engine cool completely back to amb temp before next fre up this will season/condition the springs and is what is recommended by spring manufacturers.

Change oil after it cools and then again after couple hundred miles.

As far as the bolts go.....My local Ace hardware has a great selection of bolts both standard and metric.

 

[jab529]

Thanks for the input guys. I have not decided on what engine oil I am going to use to break in yet. And after looking around I am seeing the water pump bolts come with timing cover bolts as well, so I will just replace all.

 

[jarredsoon]

I used Joe Gibbs break in oil as well, I have 7000 miles on the engine and all is well. My cam is a 212/212 flat tap. I have been using the Joe Gibbs oil since then.

 

[trbojo]

brad penn break in oil sae 30...tons of zinc...after that, valvoline racing oil with lucas break in lube added.

 

[jab529]

just got off the phone with comp cam directly and i do not need to swap out to lower rated springs. are you guys using break-in oil for just the initial 3o min break in? and switching to your oil of choice after the 30 min break in? im going to be using valvoline vr1 for my oil after break in.

 

[jarredsoon]

I use break in oil for the 30 min and then new break in oil for 500 miles after. Then switch to multi viscosity oil of choice.

 

[williamsGN]

Used Vr-1 with a bottle of ZDDP, before and after break in.

 

[Guess]

Add ZDDPlus to the oil as well for a more robust high zinc break in.

Ha! I added some ZDDP also because I thought it couldn't hurt.

I also put a strong assed magnet on the oil filter to keep any fine metal shavings in the filter. I did the cam break-in and drove for about 30 miles. Then I changed the oil and filter and put BR30 back in.

 

[turbodave231]

In my experience, the lubricant you put on the cam at installation is critical. There is a ZDDP paste available (Kirban and others) that stays put on the lobes when you install it. Richard Clark has done extensive testing on this lube versus other recommended cam lubes. Some engines will sit on the stand for a long time before they are started. The problem with other lubes IMO is that they run off the cam and end up in the oil pan before you fire the engine. The ZDDP paste will stay on the cam indefinitely until you start the engine.

The most critical time for cam break-in is the first few seconds. There will be NO splash lube for the first few seconds and having an extreme pressure lubricant on the lifter to cam contact will keep the lifter and lobe from galling. Once galling starts, the cam and lifter are toast!! The other recommendations about keeping the engine above idle and varying engine speed are all intended to promote splash lubrication (and are all great advice too)