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That distributor was new 4 weeks ago it has some pretty big grooves cut into it looks worse then the distributor that cane out of my small block Chevy after 7 years of service. I went a head and replaced it and swapped my white spring in my oil pump for the yellow spring that I believe will...

Okay so I pulled my distributor out to replace it with the new one and looks like the teeth on the distributor are worn pretty good I think this verifies some of my high oil pressure suspicions what color spring should I run I still have an assortments that came with the oil pump rebuild kit...

That’s a very good point I will check into that if the new distributor doesn’t resolve my power issue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t recall what spring I used but I got a set of manual gauges I can throw on and see what pressures I’m looking at Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t set spring pressure. I assumed it ran fine before so clean the valves up and it will run better so I do not have spring pressures for you as of right now. I lapped the valves and installed a intake seals and cleaned surfaces reassembled it. I’m not dismissing valve spring pressure as my...

Also I have another question you mentioned high oil pressure at high rpms will prime the lifters which in the event the push rods are to long would cause me to lose compression. Here’s my question when I bought a new timing cover and oil pump rebuild kit I packed it with petroleum jelly and...

The surfaces got scraped clean and a light wire brushing on the iron heads and block factory gaskets in my engine tech gasket kit were used I will have a new distributor tomorrow morning I will give that a shot before I dig into the valve covers but here’s the cam specs Valve Lift (INT/EXH)...

Well I never milled the heads or block and my compression readings are 120psi on all 6 cylinders correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t that rule out push rod geometry I gues they could be to loose but I haven’t bounced one off the rocker arms yet lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Factory Toyota cluster that was a thought that I had to I’m going to buy a digital tac timing light and recheck everything it still seems under powered I don’t think my tac is off very much Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exhaust is true duals 2.25 mufflers are strait thru glass packs no cats exhaust flows well and is only a month old Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I think valve spring pressure is not my problem as far as I can tell I am not floating the valves at 3000rpm almost everything is new that’s bolted to the engine I did run a compression test on the engine 120psi on all 6 cylinders wasn’t the 150psi I was hoping for on a new rebuilt motor...

Yeah unfortunately I didn’t get to drive it before the rebuild but I did rev it before the rebuild and it reved clean to red line with poor oil pressure I’m sure spring pressure could be a factor but I’m thinking it could actually be a bad hei distributer if I still had my old one I would throw...

Lucus 5/30 break in oil no metal in the oil new oil pump/timing cover the engine runs and idles good I can drive it 70mph just won’t go over 3000rpms it doesn’t back fire or anything just hits a wall at 3000 and won’t go past it around town it does pretty good but trying to get into passing gear...

15 degrees at idle with vacuum advanced unplugged I have advanced and retarded it it didn’t seem to gain any rpm i was thinking maybe a bad ignition coil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys iv been digging thru forums looking for some one that has had the same problem is as me but haven’t had any luck finding anything. So I have a rebuilt 3.8 na even fire it’s been bored .60 over turned crank new cam all new bearings timing chain Quadrajet carb new rebuilt new hei...