Search results

Made a few test pulls to make sure everything was in order with the new rear end, wheels/tires, and suspension parts. After I felt everything was good, I cranked the boost up to 14 lbs. From a 20mph roll it lifted the driver side front wheel off the ground.. Made some adjustments to the anti...

well for some serious updates, I've actually started re-doing the whole car. Started off with the correct 87 header panel and bumper fillers. I also added in a set of fiberglass front and rear bunpers. I swapped in the 8.8 and all the rear suspension and the anti-roll bar, added a set of pro...

Here's some video from the previous setup

Here's the Anti-roll bar welded on, The 8.8 swap parts. Planning on throwing that in the car as soon as I get some wheels that will fit the new backspacing/bolt pattern.

I guess I'm kind of bringing this thing back from the dead. A lot has changed. The stock rods in the LS1 let go, so that pretty much trashed the entire shortblock assembly along with the oil pan. I did get the cam and everything swapped over to an iron block 5.3. I switched to E85 for fuel. Car...

Yeah there is no way i'd cut up a T or GN to do this to. The limited was cheap to get and i had must less reservations in removing/modding it, wether it be temporary or permenant.

I promise there isnt much fancy work to this. I have little to no welding experience. I bought a $500 hobart 140 MIG welder, and just started welding stuff together. I have mostly harbor freight tools that I use for fabrications (angle grinder, metal chop saw, vice grip clamps, etc) I just...

Hard to put an exact number on it because I had some of the parts already but this is what it would probably cost you comparatively if you bought new. Vic Jr/rails and Elbow- $560 Head Studs- $70 Cam/Springs/Pushrods/Gaskets/Lifters/Trays/Timing Chain/ARP crank bolt- $1300 LS1 motor-$6-900...

Wheels came in. Thanks to Eric and the guys at Wike's in statesville for getting them mounted up for me this afternoon. 295/50/16 mt's on 16x8" (4"BS) smoothies.fit perfect with no hammering or rubbing. Just have to paint match the stockers. finished up the Microsquirt harness, just need...

got my box from columbia river today and wasted no time getting the hotside done. The headers have 3" vbands, they transition to 2.5", merge into a 3" collector and then into the turbo. Downpipe is 4", straight no muffler. I still need to put the wastegate on there, but need to get the header...

Small update, got the fuel lines all done and put the fuel sysem together. All the accessories put on the engine, installed new intake seals, and got that on and tq'd down. Everything clears the headers, barely. I was also able to use the factory power steering feed line from the fbody PS pump...

it is a stock size for a 65 mustang, but 3" thick. Some of the guys who build fairmonts/zephyrs and other bigger body cars with similar setups have no issues with this radiator.

Yeah now that i look closer at the differences, it does have the older header and grille. I think it may have been a replacement because the original color of the car is white and the header panel is the light blue (under the primer). I have the GN header/bezels/fiberglass bumper and some filler...

The manifolds it the steering box, id hve to get a different style, the ones in the picture were off a 01 fbody. If i was gonna pay for a set of manifolds and then for a set of vbands to weld on, id probably end up spending what i did for te headers (229 shipped)

Its tagged and insured, its an 87

Chuck, i ordered the Koul Tools getup today, after watching the video demos on it, i HAD to have one. My headers came in, obviously you get what you pay for, the bolt holes in the flanges dont line up right with the heads, so I'll have to modify those. I did get the radiator, turbo, and...

I tried everything from wd40, motor oil, an axle grease. I ended up having to put the hose (after heating for a min with a heat gun) in the vice, lube te inside with wd40 and the fitting with axle grease and stil had to hammer the fitting in with a piece of 2x4 in between. It took me 2.5 hours...

I just welded them in stock location. Put the bolts through, tacked them in place and then removed bolts and finished welded them in. For tonight i got the pumps and some of the lines mocked up. I swear this is the first and last time I use the Russell twist lok fittings, ever.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271431960032?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Link to the setback plates you can buy the motor mount kit from Jegs PN 62630K, i actually got it cheaper from the local speed shop buying the pads and mounts separately by about $8. PN's for them...

well my hood shuts, i dont know any other factors, everything is solid mounted with no give.