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on less thing on my list to do, thanks! i didnt think the boost was that low already on this chip. i guess i did something right years ago

so since i got the chips burnt, one was street and one was alky, the details on my street chip are pretty still exactly what i needed and nothing has changed, just a 45a instead of te44, tt 5.6 B 4239 60# street 93 20*-18* 16-17 psi i think its still perfect for it... any one say otherwise?

i have a te44 but needs to get rebuilt, im gonna get it all together and see how it goes, and what it feels like, if it runs that bad ill probably end up trading it to some one and putting a 44 back in, what do you mean by you need more convertor? its a 3200 stall?

so your telling me the only possible way for these cars to go over 17 lbs of boost is through meth injection?

perfect, but why do you still have the solenoid on? "Your bleeding off air just before the solenoid with manual boost bleed valve"

What's limiting more boost to run? Why am I limited to 16-17 on pump gas? Can't I just add more fuel to compensat for more boost?

Who knows I might drive it for a week than go balls to the wall on it and put the alky back on when i feel comfortable again but ill just know its there when i wanna do it

ok sounds good, the spring side of the nozzle goes to thshes the compressor housing correct? so all its doing is telling the wastegate when to open when it hits that certain psi the spring and ball opens and pushes the wastegate open, what about surge? i had a post a while ago about a BOV...

so would i just leave the wastegate at a neutral tension, and use the manual to control the boost?

I will start that way And see what kind of boost it will hold with just the waste gate rod, if it's not enough I'm gonna get a simple manual controller

That's what I thought, when it reaches certain pressure and opens to bleed it like a waste gate but on the cold side

Ok thank you all I needed to know, so the more opposing tension on the rod is less boost correct?

te44 purchased from bwr, when the head gasket blew it ate up the bearing in that turbo, the fan barely shaved the compressor housing, turbo does not include wastegate. 300 OBO

i think i answered my own question, so i just connect the turbo nipple straight into the waste gate actuator, so the only thing that controls boost pressure is the wastegate rod, correct?

so when i get my chip re burnt i can just have him delete that code? so how would i run the vacuum lines, do i still need that special Y connector i have the nipple on the turbo, and waste gate nipple?

so factory, this car uses the electronic solenoid that opens the wastegate? can i unplug that line to the solenoid and just use the adjustable wastegate actuator? is there a reason to have both a manual boost controller and adj wastegate? how do they work hand and hand? i just have zero...

so im gonna go with a 17#boost chip and set it 16 on the street to be safe, work it up a little.

i plan on putting it all together and driving it straight to cottons, or if any one here is closer to nj than him, im down, i just want some one who knows what theyre doing, not risking doing this myself.

been down that road, ive had the car for about 5 years, the car will be ready to go by next week hopefully, tune up/ spring cleaning is not thought twice about this car since it was sitting for 3 years, im not new to cars, everything to this is car done by me minus machine work, and internal...

i can say this truthfully that i have ZERO idea how to tune these cars and what to look out for besides kr, or how to adjust and feel out how the car is running, whether it be lean or rich or about to blow up. i dont know what baseline to start at, im honestly scared shitless to blow the thing...