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Looks beautiful outside now. I am heading that way in 10 minutes.

I still had .4 volts drop between the alternator B+ post and the positive battery post under load so I ran a new heavy wire there and now have less than .05 volts drop. Everything seems fine now so I am gonna call it fixed. Thanks everyone for your input on this. Brian

So I started it up this afternoon and no charging. I turned it off and removed the alternator. I took the alternator to Oreilly and it tested bad 3 times. This is the same new alternator that I got at Autozone and it had tested good at Autozone last week. So, I took it to a different...

It had just 1 wire that connects to terminal "L". In the factory wiring diagram it passes through a resistor and the dash light. I get voltage there at the alternator and the alternator still does not work sometimes. That is why I ran a switched hot wire to the "I" terminal which should also...

Thanks Rick. Good info in that article.

Thanks, will do.

Does the ECM do that by supplying 12 volts to the "L" terminal at the alternator connector? I have verified 12 volts to the "L" terminal and it has a new connector. I also hot wired the alternator with switched ignition power to the "I" terminal at the alternator which you can do with this...

Hey Earl, I am starting to think that it could be the new alternator. I ran some tests this morning and actually wrote the results down and they are interesting. It is about 40 degrees here this morning. I measured the voltage with my good volt meter with the ignition off vehicle not running...

Thanks Rick. I will do that.

Ok this is not on my GN but on my 1997 Chevy Tahoe. A few weeks ago I was driving it and the alternator quit charging. I figured it was the 17 year old Autozone alternator so I took it back and got a new one. They did not even test the old one because the bearings sounded bad when turning it...

I plan on being there.

I went by the machine shop this morning. All of the rods were from .0011" to .0015" clearance so I am getting them re-bushed. I told the machine shop guy to get them all between .0008" and .001" but as close to .001" as possible. Thanks for all the input on this! Brian

At least 4 of them were bigger than .001", maybe more. I will go by the shop tomorrow and get a measurement on all of them. These rods have a few thousand miles on them. Everything else checks out good on them. The pins in my old pistons were .9274" which would have made the fit better...

What is the recommended clearance between the piston pin and the rod? This is a K1 rod with a .927" floating pin. Current clearance is .0014" on the loosest one. I can get them re-bushed if needed but my machinist is saying they should be more like .0005" which seems a bit tight for this...

I figured HMP but last time I was there the track prep was crazy good. Sunday is drag radial and slicks only I think and that keeps out the junk vehicles. I don't know if Sealy is even open much anymore. Since Henessy bought it it has become their private test track. Track prep there was...

What track is that at? When u going back? I run that same tire at 13 psi all the time and it usually hooks good but I have all the HR stuff in the back. It still hooked good back when I just had the Southside Machine lowers and the stock rear bar however. I just have the KYB shocks. I also...

That was a great meet up! Thanks James for getting it together. It was nice to see a real GNX in person. Thanks Ryan for bringing it out and for the coffee. It was good to see everyone again. The pictures of all the cars lined up at Sonic are priceless! I wish I could have made it over...

I am only 8 miles away so I will be there.

Still dry at my house but people are using boats to get around less than a mile from me. I can't get to work so I have just been doing stuff around the house. I put a new water pump on my car this weekend but can't go anywhere to drive it. Oh well. Everyone stay dry and safe.

I might make it out. I only live 5 miles from there.