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Did you see my comment in your second paragraph? It got thrown in with the highlighted quote.

I like that idea. I was overthinking things and trying to come up with an equal length fulcrom that would "rock" the cam movement to above the valley, where I would have the dial indicator mounted the opposite way. Duh...I think I'll take the easy way for $1.:biggrin:

Well, I'd like to say I have all the greatest tools, and some I do, but the dial indicater I have came with my Summit cam degree kit. :rolleyes:

I, too am paticular. Didn't spend this much money and time to cheap out on a $4 gasket. I'll order one tonight, so I can have it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. I'll try fishing the dial indicator in there tonight and see if it looks like you say.

I know they are pretty cheap, just trying to save a day of waiting for Brand X auto parts store to get in a gasket for a "Turbo Regal". And your method of checking end play is what I was describing, but it sounds like readings will be off, because you can't get a straight parallel shot at the...

So how would you go about getting a clear, parallel shot at the cam, while the block is on a stand (so accessing from the back will be dificult), and the front cover is on, to get a good reading?:confused:

-6? If you want to upgrade, you need a -8 feed, and use your old feed line to return. But most GNs run 10s on stock lines.Im not sure where your damage is, but mine got kinked around the front cover area, i ran a -8 line from fitting near drivers side upper a arm to fuel rail. just needed a few...

I see lots of threads addressing roller camshaft endplay (not billet), and lots of good advise for methods of getting it right. Most will probably agree that after 2 attempts, you should start over with a new gasket. Here's my question...has anyone tried using something like blue painters tape...

OK, used both sets together and came out exactly .0015 on #'s 1,2 and 4. Just a hair tighter on #3, but decided to stick with it since it's mostly a street car. Now on to the rods. Thanks for all your help, guys. Happy spooling!

OK, I'm gonna try the mixed set and see what happens. I'll post the results tonight or tomorrow night (depends on when I get some spare time) for anyone that might be interested.

Thanks to everyone for your input. Does the mix-match of std/.001 bearings really work without any ill effects? In theory, it should put me right in the .0015-.0018 range, but if it causes premature wear, or something worse, I'll stick with the .002. BTW, I've had the HV pump on a stock cover...

I can see how high ol pressure will cause leaks, but can you explain to me how higher pressure will cause bearing failure? I don't doubt you, I'm just curious.:confused:

Yea, I know you didn't want to hear plastigage, but it's better than just assuming everything is fine. I also know .002 is a little on the high side, but I am running a high volume oil pump and ported front cover...I would think that helps make up for the larger gaps, right?

I have a stout 109 block, RJC girdle, will mostly see street use with some track time peppered in. With std. main bearings, I get about .002 clearance. I tried a set of .001 under for fun, and come out between .0008 and .001. Is this too tight for the street? Should I settle for the .002? I just...

Crystal clear. Thanks.

OK, good info. How much clearance do you need between the crank and block...maybe .005 - .010?

Cool, thanks.

Good Question. I'm interested in hearing some opinions on the "long rod" stroker kit for mostly street use... Subscribed.

Besides clearancing the block for the stroker crank, what other hidden costs are there to consider when going stroker? Do I need to change my harmonic balancer and flexplate to match? Also, stock rods are press in pins, Scat rods are full floaters...will my JE pistons still fit these? Do I need...

80239. I would also be interested in you pricing it with the harmonic balancer, front cover and flex plate that go with that motor, if they are available.