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You blew the fuse inside the meter trying to measure voltage with the meter set for current. Take off the back cover and check the fuse. And remember: If you want to measure current, you have to unhook a battery cable. Have the red lead plugged into the meter socket marked 2A fused and set...

Alden, in the NLP.

What made you decide to buy a new set?

A bad MAF can cause an excessively rich condition, meaning dumping the fuel. If you don't have a scanner you might want to try pulling your plugs, let your cylinders dry out for a while, and get the car started again. Force the ECM into backup mode by pulling the connector off your MAF and see...

2QUIK6, I just visited your party page. I'm sending my home address to you for when you send out invitations to your next event! :D

I'm doing mine now, with the help of another few people who've done their's before. Like stated in a previous post, take your visors, coat hangers, dome light off. Push/pull the side molding one end at a time. There's some little black clips that hold them on and hopefully you won't break them...

Take a light coat or sweatshirt with you. That island can get cool with a lake breeze. The island is basically a tourist trap, but has some historical significance. Ft. Mackinac was occupied by the British, the US, and the french. The downtown area has those little shops that women seem to love...

Now get out there and wake up the neighbors. :cool:

There's supposed to be a bypass connection near the alternator to power the pump directly. Or you could unplug the connector at the back bumper and hook up a continuity tester light, then turning the key to see if you get the two second prime voltage supply.

I was hoping you would hear the pump, because all that would mean is that the pump wires weren't reconnected correctly and it's running in reverse. Been there, done that. Hmmm, sounds like you either have a ground problem or a bad relay.

Do you hear the pump trying to prime the fuel rail when you turn the key?

Forgot to add that you just disconnect the oil feed line at the turbo, not the entire line. You could disconnect the line at the brass pressure sensor block at thread in a fitting and attach a rubber hose if that's easier.

Alternative way of priming the pump can be done by removing the turbo oil feed line and taping a funnel on it. Remove oil filter and throw it away, as it's probably packed full of jelly. Pour some oil in the filter before installing. Now dump a little oil in the funnel. It'll slowly flow down...

I've tried two different OEM ignition module/coilpack assys with the same result. Spark is there, and I think fuel is there because of noid light pulse and the chugging when cranking engine (plugs smell gassy, but not wet). That said, the ignition module is doing it's job according to everything...

I've got the same thing going on. I have good spark, verified by a Snap On version of the ST125; noid light verified injectors are being driven; cam sensor has been adjusted a million times; fuel pressure good; but no cigar. It really wants to light off, but I get the feeling that it's just not...

I'm having the same problem. Fresh rebuild, no SES codes, have spark on #s 1,3,5, test light pulsed on injectors 1 and 3 (didn't try 5 but the plug gets wet. However, my cam sensor has been tough to set. I have been able to get the voltage drop with a few degrees of 25 ATDC, but not dead on. Is...