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I just got my scanmaster last week at the behest off all of my helpful respondants on this forum. Now that its there, I need to get a general idea about what the "good" values are for my car, as I am unsure about them. I suppose the main concern is 02 volts under WOT.. on several passes, I...

For whatever reason, I can't seem to figure out why my car just doesn't want to "go"...it gets relatively good mpg (17) for my knock-around driving, but its presently not going under the 14s, whereas prior to any modification I had a 13.69 pass.. My upgrades are in my sig, minus my recently...

I probed my O2 sensor the other day and with a voltmeter on a .25 volt scale, I got no reading. Then, after unplugging it (which I hear should throw a code and give me a check engine light), nothing happened.... Oh, by the way, any ideas why with 17 psi, 60 lb-ers, walbro 340, and erics 93...

Ok, part one- 2-3 shift is weak, but there...engine sometimes gains rpms between this shift, but settles in. Its a little slow, quite far behind my neck snapping 1-2 shift with the B+M shift kit installed. Any reason for this? My TV cable is reasonably taught...I hear any play is bad...

Im running the turbotweak street chip, and at 17 psi I get the feeling from the motor that at higher rpms its losing a little bit of power (rather than pulling like it should). Part-throttle response seems better for the most part, and occasionally I hear a bit of pinging at high rpms under WOT...

Now, I have big hands/arms that dont fit into the crevices to get at the nuts and bolts holding the drivers side upper control arm in place, so I was wondering if there's an easy way to get it off? I read that the two bolts are splined and have to be tapped out from the nut side, but a buddy of...

In the process of re-doing my front end, I'm realizing that 20 year old nuts and bolts seldom enjoy being removed, as per the resolved argument between my dremel and upper shock mount bolt. The destruction of 1 c-clamp also leads me to believe that the front retaining bolt on the lower control...

Ok, I will start with the simple one. 1) In the morning (on very cold days), the first time the car actually moves forward it hesitates a little bit, almost in the manner that it might if the rear brakes were hanging up a bit, or the diff was being moody. But its only that one time in the...

I am running 17 psi on a TurboTweak 93 octane chip... Should I still be using AC R44T's (I think thats what I put in as far as I can remember), or go down a heat range to the R33's? I know there's a certain boost level that you should run a colder plug with...I just forgot. And are AC's...

Looking for an upgrade..if anyone has any they want to part with, let me know. I'm on a budget, so "new" parts that just sat around are probably too expensive for me.. I think 70 mm is the next size up...any body have one in good used condition?

I'm going to be fixing up the suspension in my car very shortly, but I'm skeptical about the parts I should be using. I am pretty sure I'm leaning towards Energy Suspension for the bushings I need, but I dont know what balljoints and other parts I should be using. Anyone have any good names I...

I was doing a bit of reading the other day in that book "The Power-Pac Buick: Performance and Restoration Tips", and something caught my attention. They were talking about a street chip available with many of the same functions as the TurboTweak 93 octane chip I have installed already. Of the...

I just recently discovered that rotating piece at the base of the steering column on my car no longer returns to its proper location when putting the car in park, and it interferes with the tumbler...not a major problem, since I can just turn it the extra half inch around to be able to get the...

I followed all of the diagnostic charts for the unit, and here is what I have discovered- Brake light comes on with normal braking, and it took about 7 seconds to cycle initially. Pump does NOT self cycle after 2 minutes. My guess is the accumulator, however I am still in the dark about...

After thinking a lot about this problem, I narrowed it down, but still I would like some input. When the car is cold(er), it will start up, but sometimes register low vacuum (14 in/Hg) until the motor is running at 180-190 F. Also, it will shudder and hesitate when it first accelerates...

I dont really want to spend big bucks to replace this setup, but here's my problem. Ever since I got the car back on the road in October after sitting for 2 years, the brake warning light would come on..mainly under moderate force. Slowly, it has been coming on with less and less effort, and...

Hooked a Scanmaster up to my car about a month ago, everything read just fine aside from a slightly low idle air reading (which makes sense, because my IAC motor is on the fritz I think and the idle fluctuates sometimes). Anyway...got on the go-pedal, spooled the turbo up (which has been...

Ok, the car sat in our driveway for about 2 years without running, but I recently put it back on the road in October. The car was extremely well maintained by my parents since new, then it was turned over to me once they got another car. The car runs and drives beautifully, even under full...