Recent content by Tim Riecks 6

It should jump around. If it doesn't then there would be something wrong (whether it be the sensor or otherwise). The only time it should have a somewhat constant reading is when you are accelerating heavily. The jumping around is where you get your cross counts (on a scan tool) from.

Did you bleed the brakelines after you installed the new brakes?

Perhaps he did read the whole thing and DID notice the diesel part of it. Maybe he had his ass handed to him one too many times by just about everything else on the road and figured you'd be easy prey. Nice to know that you sent him off all pissy. Love it!!

I checked NAPA and Kragen online. NAPA part # is: NF LF12K - $11.99 - flasher/turn signal (loud flasher kit) NF LF12 - $10.99 - flasher/turn signal (loud flasher) NF EL12 - $10.99 - flasher/turn signal (electromechanical flasher) They are all made by Tridon and are all the better...

Well, I'll be dipped! I never knew there were two separate flasher units! I would have replaced the one in the fuse panel also had I not went back and read this thread. Wiring diagram shows them both, but I never would have noticed that either had I not known. Many thanks for the info. I...

Don't forget - you need to figure for interior volume. You need to subtract the thickness of the material from the overall length, width, and height. Example: one of my boxes is 38x16.5x24 or something like that. That would be 36.5x15x22.5 since the HDF is .75" thick. If this box was not split...

I plan on upgrading the front speakers in the LeSabre T-Type pretty soon here. I plan on going with 6.5's in the doors and some 4" in the dash. My reasoning for this: I have whatever size is stock in the dash of my Celebrity (the stereo system testbed) and love the sound. Just those two speakers...

Mine blink slowly also. My LeSabre T-Type is the same way. I've been thinking of replacing the flasher units (in the fuse panel that make the lights flash) on both cars but haven't gotten around to it yet.

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html scroll toward the bottom of page and you'll see the picture showing the proper hookup of the wastegate Y.

Expensive because of the oil cooler.

Does the fuel pressure decrease rapidly after you shut the car off or does it take a long time to go down? Possibly a leaky injector? I know you said they are new, but if you have any luck like mine you would get a bad one. I'd check it out anyway.

I tend to go overkill on just about anything I do. When I had to have my alternator rebuilt it was no different. I had a local place rebuild mine with the 200 amp stator and smaller pulley. Total was $160 or $180 for the rebuild and another $20 I think for the pulley. From what I've heard the...

Assuming that everything is hooked up properly and all gaskets, etc. are there, and also assuming you have a scan tool (preferably) : http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/IACresetscan.html The TPS/IAC can take a bit to get the hang of as far as setting them, but once you've done it a few times...

I always go to my local library and copy off the wiring diagrams from the Mitchell automotive manuals. Very good thorough diagrams. Also have very good diagnostics. If I had a scanner I'd send you some scans. Actually, not sure, but I think there might be some wiring diagrams on GNTType.org...

Back to what was said about not wanting to go with too large of pipe... I've heard this a couple of times too. Then I have to explain to the people that in a turbocharged car the turbo is already placing a restriction in the exhaust flow. The more free flowing you have after the turbo, the better.