THE b4black downpipe thread

[b4black]

This is an old thread (2006) from the other board, but I thought it might be helpful over here.

George,

I have a 1983 Turbo Buick Regal. This is the early carbureted version. I and others are very interested in a larger 2½" downpipe. I have heard reports that you make a very nice 2½" DP for the 84/85 Turbo Regal, was hoping you would consider making one for the earlier cars. The downpipes are very similar. Only the top portion is different and it is actually less complicated than the 84/85 DP.

Dowpipes interchange for all 1978 thru 1983 Turbo Buicks except Rivieras (FWD). I know there would seem to be very little demand for early Turbo Buick performance parts, but I believe that quite a few people would be interested in this. The small stock downpipe is one of our primary week spots.

Here are some comparison pictures. I can send you an stock downpipe if it helps.

Overall dowpipes (83 is silver, 84/85 has braided top)


Close up of top section


Thanks,

OK, so after a year or so, I said to hell with ATR helping me out and took matters into my own hands. Last fall I picked up a used 84/85 ATR 2.5" pipe and figure I could get someone to weld a new top to it.

The ATR pipe is nice. It doesn't look bigger, but it's not double walled like the stock DP and is much bigger internally. It bolts the the stock 84/85 elbow, which uses the same donut gasket as our cars. That got me thinking.

Today I cut a section of the pipe out in the middle. If you bolt the bottom to the converter and the top to the turbo (using a 3-bolt flange instead of the 84/85 2-bolt flange) they come real close to meeting. I then connected them with so cheesy flex pipe and it fits. Actually the flex joint doesn't look bad and once I get some decent clamps on it, it will look good.


The ATR is pipe not too expensive. I think they are $135 new and I paid $50 for a good-used. A cut off wheel, a flex pipe and some clamps is all that is needed. Also, you either need to get the right 3-bolt flange or cut it off the stock pipe. Best part is that it's a DIY job - no exhaust shop needed.


Getting the stock pipe out is work. I had to removed the crossover and passenger side manfold. AC comporessor might get in the way if you have one.

 

[b4black]

 

[b4black]

PS - I'm still using this DP with the flex pipe today. I did have to change the flex pipe twice so far. I have thought about taking it in to get it welded, but then it's nice being able to remove the top section. Getting it clamped well isn't easy. I found that 'guillotine' muffler clamps work best.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

I'll add my experiences.

I started out with the stock one and built a jig. Puts all the important stuff where it needs. FYI, I like building my own stuff so thats why I did it this way. Rich's way is easier and just as good. Unless your crazy like me or want a stainless 2 piece the ATR ones work fine.

Built a jig

Built

Welded. I didnt tig weld it I had my welder do it. I just dont have a tig. Could to it with a MIG but TIG is way better looking and you dont burn through.

I got pissed off that every time I wanted to pull the down pipe i had to pull the AC pump off and loose my charge so I built a stainless 2 piece since stainless was just as expensive and aluminized. Put a flex coupler in so it would be easily positionable.

 

[charlief1]

For some reason your pics aren't loading Rich.

 

[jimski]

I would like to buy one please. my dp is crap

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Since were showing off our pipes... lol

Here's mine.

Tig welded 2.5" stainless and then cerma-coated. I used V-band flanges since packaging is an issue for me. Everything just barely clears by 1/4" lol.... its a tight fit.

 

[b4black]

Very Nice!

You both have your joints in the same place. I assume putting it there allows the lower half to be removed from the bottom without removing the crossover & exhaust manifold.

I wish someone were still making 2½" 84/85 DP's like ATR was. If so, I bet we could convince them to make a 1978/83 pipe as well.

(I can see all the pictures, even using different computers. Mine were just links to existing pictures on the internet.)

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Very Nice!

You both have your joints in the same place. I assume putting it there allows the lower half to be removed from the bottom without removing the crossover & exhaust manifold.

I wish someone were still making 2½" 84/85 DP's like ATR was. If so, I bet we could convince them to make a 1978/83 pipe as well.

(I can see all the pictures, even using different computers. Mine were just links to existing pictures on the internet.)

Mine wasnt so much about ease of removal..... its not bad to get out for me really, as I can pull the fender off pretty quick.

I gave mine to joint because it makes Turbo upgrades much much easier. the only part changing is from the v band up! I have 3 different setups currently: a stock unit, a spec 35- 301 turbo unit (as pictured here), and my t70 turbo unit. so ease of testing and change is needed or else id pull my hair out hand fitting each downpipe again.

 

[mikemcvaney]

That is a mean down pipe nice work.

 

[charlief1]

Did you do the welding yourself Aj? Nice work and it's what I've been thinking about, but in 3" since I've got everything to do it. Still got to do the mock up on the mew motor mounts and the tranny crossmember but it's pretty simple.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Did you do the welding yourself Aj? Nice work and it's what I've been thinking about, but in 3" since I've got everything to do it. Still got to do the mock up on the mew motor mounts and the tranny crossmember but it's pretty simple.

yup did all the welding myself! on a 400 dollar Harbor Frieght Tig welder (remember when i bought that stupid 3 in 1?) , and the pro who has been teaching me was impressed with that little blue box welder. I wanted 3" really bad.... but there was just no way of fitting it in the engine compartment. Right after the first V-band where it bends down towards the trans it gets super tight. i expect the passenger to feel the hot spot on there feet once its running, so hopefully some dyna-mat will keep it reasonable.

I tell you what, the first bend that curves around from the 301 turbo discharges is gonna suck in 3". i went through a whole bundle of tubing trying to figure out the best way to make this bend. since the 301 housing dumps out in a funky angle, getting the smooth curve without causing eye straining uglyness is hard. I would weld it all together and call it good, but making it look half right and natural.... sheesh. what a pain. I wish you much luck on that first 12". (thats what she said too)

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

My hot side is the 86-87 and I won't be using the stock waste gate on it. I've already got the flange so I don't think that angle will be much of an issue on it.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yes, I put my connector in that spot for 2 reasons.

First, it was the only straight part on it to weld it to. Everywhere else was too curvy.

But otherwise that's the best place to put it. Don't have to pull the manifolds or AC pump and it comes off easy straight up.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

bump

 

[RUDE DOG]

Hell yeah!! couldn't have been a better time to bump this so that a few of us could check it out. I need to make a down pipe this winter for my car, but would like to get rid of the elbow. That jig is a great idea, gonna have to try it.

 

[charlief1]

Go to the fabrication section and you can see the entire thread on how to make your own down pipe.

 

[b4black]

Since the fender is off the car, this might be helpful. Not a lot of room down there.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

looks like i need to make you a pipe eh Rich?

 

[b4black]

That would great. The downpipe is one of the parts for the GN that I am not sure about what I am going to do. I was considering pulling the ATR downpipe off my '83 and putting the stocker back on it.