Your car NEEDS braces! Best mod ever!

No idea if both would fit without bending some of the 4 piece braces to clear the GNX style...I doubt very much any noticeable difference between the two versions. At least from a marketing stand point you got both options available to you.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

I actually did both. I bought the GNX style brace and when I removed the carpet realized the old X style was in there. They both fit up without any hassle
 
Bolted, but when I do the interior I will have the GNX brace welded in. I just wanted them in before I took the body off to make it as rigid as possible
 
Good deal thanks for the input!! I am in the middle of a similar build your pocket is a little deeper than mine so it will take me a bit longer but i am in no hurry!!
Chris
 
hello; The SC&C brace was at my door when I got home yesterday. Good quick job getting it to me. I believe it is PC black and it is beefy. Now to find some time to play with it. I might start a new thread on the subject.
IBBY
 
Been looking for those "firewall to core braces" myself for years, any info as to what car thay came from would help.
 
hello; Update. I spent my Sun. here in Mass. playing with the TB. It was like summertime and it's October. I know it won't last.
The SC&C front brace will not fit with the PTE SLIC. If you wanted maybe it might? You'd have to move the IC over and maybe grind off some of the IC. The IC is just too deep and the angle of the brace is too small. I wasn't going change things around too much and I wish it did fit as it's a quality,beefy pc.
For now I'm just going to use the brace Kirban sells that's made out of sq. tubing. I can't get the triangulation and I don't want adapters to add to make it work.
Look in the for sale section for braces being sold.
IBBY
 
My GN is stripped down so doing either seat brace would not be a issue but if i ended up doing the GNX type and welding it in i would want to do it now. It sounds like no one has ever really found any difference in the two though what about doing both or is that way overkill! I'm sure that would keep it tight!!!!!
Chris

I have the bolt in double X-braces that Kirban sells. They do make a noticeable difference, but they "Buzz" at certain RPM or road vibration. I have zip tied them together at the junction of the X and that helped somewhat. I would think that the GNX style brace would be more solid & not buzz.

~JM~
 
For the X braces i used 1" flat stock and welded them where they crossed. Cheap and easy to do.
 
For the X braces i used 1" flat stock and welded them where they crossed. Cheap and easy to do.

1" and flat stock together does not make sense to me. If it was flat it shouldn't be 1" ;):confused:. Can you be a pal and explain a little more? Any pics you could share?
 
1" and flat stock together does not make sense to me. If it was flat it shouldn't be 1" ;):confused:. Can you be a pal and explain a little more? Any pics you could share?

It was 1" wide and 1/4" thick steel. I bolted in the end and welded where it crossed, but i will probably weld near the bolts too. I can get pics today for you.
 
These are some diagrams someone posted on another forum, sorry about the "off-brand" car. ;)

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There is some debate on the very rear brace between the bumper supports (often a tow hitch is used). Some say it's worth it, some say it's better to leave the car a little "loose" in the back. I honestly don't know either way, I've never raced one of these cars.



Well the big thing here is (my theory anyway) that it triangulates the front end. Remember that a triangle is the strongest shape in that it can't be bent or distorted. Ever take a bridge building class in high school?

Now granted, the braces here don't form a true triangle since there's two sepatrated mounting points under the engine cradle. But it's gotta be better than nothing. My plan is to shorten the cross bar under the radiator, move it inwards, and weld it to the other two bars like this:

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And in addition to that, cut a smallish triangle out of flat steel and weld it between the two towards the point under the engine cradle, forming a true solid triangle. That should make it all a lot stronger than as-installed by the factory, without the extra weight and cost of having aftermarket ones made out of heavier gauge tubing. And FWIW, I paid about $15 for these three pieces at the U-pullit yard. Will it work? I really can't imagine why it wouldn't.
One thing i always wondered about---the yellow and green lines,arent they the same as the bumpers????

post pics of the chargers and shelby...
 
From what i had heard was that the bumpers arent a solid brace because of the play they get from the bumper shocks.
 
One thing i always wondered about---the yellow and green lines,arent they the same as the bumpers????

post pics of the chargers and shelby...
I know I have read that the yellow line is some sort of brace and that you can install a tow hitch too to help with frame movement.
 
I cut a piece of hose and put it where the pipes cross so now there is a rubber insulation where they meet.

D


I have the bolt in double X-braces that Kirban sells. They do make a noticeable difference, but they "Buzz" at certain RPM or road vibration. I have zip tied them together at the junction of the X and that helped somewhat. I would think that the GNX style brace would be more solid & not buzz.

~JM~
 
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