wiring a Nitrous system on a Turbo Buick

Joined
Jan 31, 2006
i have a Nitrous system (small shot 25-75 HP) and i want to wire it to activate the instant i go WOT at low to zero boost and for it to shut off at a preset boost level(lets say 10-15PSI), What would be the best way of doing this?


I was thinking (first mistake) about using an adjustable boost activated switch.???


Don't need Nitrous just want it.



 
i run a trigger switch off the throttle linkage,with a switch inside the car.
 
i run a trigger switch off the throttle linkage,with a switch inside the car.

Switch inside car = manual switch?
Switch = turns it off ??
trigger on the throttle linkage = Activates it??


I was also thinking of a throttle linkage activated switch but my main issue is turning it off while still WOT in the middle of a run.

How big of a shot do you use?
Do you use it the for the whole run?

thanks for you help.
 
arm switch in car with 12v at common terminal
out from switch to a 20psi hobbs with N/C terminals ... honeywell 83299 screw terminals /83314 spade terminals hobbs is NC and adjustable from 10-35
from the hobbs to a N/O terminal on leaf switch mounted at throttle linkage
from leaf micro switch common terminal to the nitrous solenoid /fuel solenoid
connect other side of solenoids to ground

once armed with the switch on theres power through the hobbs
go wot and leaf closes micro switch and nitrous is on
once boost reaches hobb setting it opens and nitrous stops
lift throttle and the throttle nitrous stops
 
I use to use phone cord red button i mounted on steering wheel (75-150 kit,First NOS Kit For a GN back in the 80's),I could take it on or off. Press it an "Your Gone!!!" bone stock motor,turbo,inj, with stock chip, exhaust an k@n filter in cold box , i ran 11.9 @119 with 1.70 short! street tire (MCeary's L60's) through the mufflers.Test pipe of course. Just turn your boost down to manually to 9-10psi Total,The Nitrous will boost it to 19-20Psi!!! Run the nitrous all whole length of the 1/4 mile ,run 100 octane plus fuel to save detenation

Enjoy!
 
I use to use phone cord red button i mounted on steering wheel (75-150 kit,First NOS Kit For a GN back in the 80's),I could take it on or off. Press it an "Your Gone!!!" bone stock motor,turbo,inj, with stock chip, exhaust an k@n filter in cold box , i ran 11.9 @119 with 1.70 short! street tire (MCeary's L60's) through the mufflers.Test pipe of course. Just turn your boost down to manually to 9-10psi Total,The Nitrous will boost it to 19-20Psi!!! Run the nitrous all whole length of the 1/4 mile ,run 100 octane plus fuel to save detenation

Enjoy!


yup !!! those were the days..
 
I believe you can't have too many switches backing up switches with a nitrous system. I use a 400+ hp shot for 1.4-2.0 seconds to spool a 91mm turbo. The engine is on methanol.

I use a gpo (general purpose output) from the aftermarket ecm to setup an operating window for the nitrous activation. The gpo activates a relay, allowing the nitrous system to be hot as long as the rpm and map are within the programmed window.

I use two master manual arming switches on a panel within reach of the driver. One switch makes all the electronics controlling the nitrous system live. The other switch is the main master that makes the WOT switch live. This switch remains off until the burnout is finished.

A micro leaf switch at the throttle allows the system to be activated only at WOT.

An adjustable map switch is set at a max map limit as a backup to shut off the nitrous system if the gpo window switch fails to do so. The gpo is the primary shut off switch.

Another relay only allows the nitrous to start activation if the transbrake button is first depressed. A timer relay is another control I use if I want the nitrous system to continue spraying after the transbrake button has been released. The delay box does not override the gpo shut off point or the map switch shut off point. It simply allows the nitrous to keep flowing if those other shut off points have not been met yet by the time I need to release the transbrake button to launch the car. The timer delay is adjustable. I can have the nitrous shut off .001 second after transbrake release, or let the nitrous keep flowing until the other shut offs come into play after transbrake release.
 
I use to use phone cord red button i mounted on steering wheel (75-150 kit,First NOS Kit For a GN back in the 80's),I could take it on or off. Press it an "Your Gone!!!" bone stock motor,turbo,inj, with stock chip, exhaust an k@n filter in cold box , i ran 11.9 @119 with 1.70 short! street tire (MCeary's L60's) through the mufflers.Test pipe of course. Just turn your boost down to manually to 9-10psi Total,The Nitrous will boost it to 19-20Psi!!! Run the nitrous all whole length of the 1/4 mile ,run 100 octane plus fuel to save detenation

Enjoy!

thanks for the reply
i might eventually try the whole run but as a rookie i want to take baby steps. short runs and low low boost.
 
arm switch in car with 12v at common terminal
out from switch to a 20psi hobbs with N/C terminals ... honeywell 83299 screw terminals /83314 spade terminals hobbs is NC and adjustable from 10-35
from the hobbs to a N/O terminal on leaf switch mounted at throttle linkage
from leaf micro switch common terminal to the nitrous solenoid /fuel solenoid
connect other side of solenoids to ground

once armed with the switch on theres power through the hobbs
go wot and leaf closes micro switch and nitrous is on
once boost reaches hobb setting it opens and nitrous stops
lift throttle and the throttle nitrous stops

Thanks Paul as always great replies with details.
 
I believe you can't have too many switches backing up switches with a nitrous system. I use a 400+ hp shot for 1.4-2.0 seconds to spool a 91mm turbo. The engine is on methanol.

I use a gpo (general purpose output) from the aftermarket ecm to setup an operating window for the nitrous activation. The gpo activates a relay, allowing the nitrous system to be hot as long as the rpm and map are within the programmed window.

I use two master manual arming switches on a panel within reach of the driver. One switch makes all the electronics controlling the nitrous system live. The other switch is the main master that makes the WOT switch live. This switch remains off until the burnout is finished.

A micro leaf switch at the throttle allows the system to be hot only at WOT.

An adjustable map switch is set at a max map limit as a backup to shut off the nitrous system if the gpo window switch fails to do so. The gpo is the primary shut off switch.

Another relay only allows the nitrous to start activation if the transbrake button is first depressed. A timer relay is another control I use if I want the nitrous system to continue spraying after the transbrake button has been released. The delay box does not override the gpo shut off point or the map switch shut off point. It simply allows the nitrous to keep flowing if those other shut off points have not been met yet by the time I need to release the transbrake button to launch the car. The timer delay is adjustable. I can have the nitrous shut off .001 second after transbrake release, or let the nitrous keep flowing until the other shut offs come into play after transbrake release.

thanks for the reply
i also considered timer and delay controls but i first want to make a few runs with it to see if i like the results to then decide which way i am going to go = keep it or sell it.
 
i used it for the whole run,a 35 shot at the track dropped the car 4 tenths,i ran up to a 50 shot on the street while playing with others.
 
Very easy to get addictive to it. Kinda pricey filling the bottle up. We could go threw 3/4 a week . Had a filling station that helped with $$$$.
 
Very easy to get addictive to it. Kinda pricey filling the bottle up. We could go threw 3/4 a week . Had a filling station that helped with $$$$.

i hit the track 2 times a year (spring and fall) for about 10-12 runs each and on the street i drive around with a white flag like a big punk.
local Speed shop gets S55.00 plus tax so its not too bad.

What do you figure 1 bottle per track day?
 
i hit the track 2 times a year (spring and fall) for about 10-12 runs each and on the street i drive around with a white flag like a big punk.
local Speed shop gets S55.00 plus tax so its not too bad.

What do you figure 1 bottle per track day?
I run a 10 lb bottle. I change out the bottle when it becomes half empty (5 lbs used up). After halfway, the effectiveness goes away. With the shot size that I'm using and the small duration of activation time, I'm presently getting about 7 runs out of a bottle before I have to change it. That's about how many runs I'll do in a day.
 
I run a 10 lb bottle. I change out the bottle when it becomes half empty (5 lbs used up). After halfway, the effectiveness goes away. With the shot size that I'm using and the small duration of activation time, I'm presently getting about 7 runs out of a bottle before I have to change it. That's about how many runs I'll do in a day.
7 runs at 400 HP per run
my bottle should last me a year @ 50-75 HP shots X 10-12 runs
Not too bad
 
7 runs at 400 HP per run
my bottle should last me a year @ 50-75 HP shots X 10-12 runs
Not too bad
That's 400 hp per run, but only activated to spool the turbo for 1.4-2.0 seconds at the line.
I don't dare run the 400 shot through the whole pass. Yikes.
 
That's 400 hp per run, but only activated to spool the turbo for 1.4-2.0 seconds at the line.

got you
if i go the same route of only at the launch i should be good with one bottle but 10 runs at 11plus seconds would add up real quick. but still not bad for the type of power gains it has to offer.
i wouldn't use it on the street so thats not going to be a $$ problem.
 
Keep in mind that if you use it only to spool at the line, it opens up a whole new world of turbo tuning possibilities.
You can play with larger turbine wheels and housings to lower exhaust back pressure, increasing top end performance.
You can go with a tighter torque converter to decrease TC slippage on the top end, increasing top end performance.
With the increased top end performance, you might have to change tire size or gearing.
 
Top