wiring a Nitrous system on a Turbo Buick

[bison]

The best way with simple electronics is to use an on/off switch that is triggered at wot. There are a lot of adjustable switches out there. Use a normally closed Hobbs switch to have it open at the pressure you want. Don't rely on any other switches unless you want to run it in the car so you can open the circuit with another switch.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The best way with simple electronics is to use an on/off switch that is triggered at wot. There are a lot of adjustable switches out there. Use a normally closed Hobbs switch to have it open at the pressure you want. Don't rely on any other switches unless you want to run it in the car so you can open the circuit with another switch.

i have an adjustable Hobbs switch that can be used 2 ways - normally closed and/or normally open.
i thought that a max RPM switch is a good idea in case something brakes or the car brakes loose while under juice at wot and prevent the engine from over revving??
i am using a BB 2 step, Do you think thats enough to control the rpm's while the juice is in use??

 

[Alky V6]

It's not a good idea to hit a rev limiter while on the nitrous, unless the rev limiter only retards the timing. Even then, avoid being on the nitrous with any type of rev limiter. Install a window switch that would limit the rpm range that the nitrous can be activated.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

It's not a good idea to hit a rev limiter while on the nitrous, unless the rev limiter only retards the timing. Even then, avoid being on the nitrous with any type of rev limiter. Install a window switch that would limit the rpm range that the nitrous can be activated.

thats what i was thinking.
this is the way i am thinking about doing the wiring

 

[Alky V6]

If you're going to have any switches and such on the same circuit that will ultimately feed the nitrous solenoids, make sure they can handle the same draw as the solenoids. I prefer to keep the feed to the solenoids controlled by a relay that is getting it's power straight from a good positive with no other devices inline, except maybe a manual switch for in case you have a sticking relay.
If you have to, use 2 relays inline to control the power to the solenoids. With multiple relays in series to control the power to the nitrous solenoids, there's a little more safety against a sticking relay. The chances of having 2 relays stick on you at the same time is very remote.

 

[Alky V6]

I would also arrange a master manual switch that would cut power to the whole system. Not just part of it.
I use 2 master arming switches mounted side by side. One supplies power to the control electronics of the nitrous system. The other controls the power that directly feeds the solenoids via a relay.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I would also arrange a master manual switch that would cut power to the whole system. Not just part of it.
I use 2 master arming switches mounted side by side. One supplies power to the control electronics of the nitrous system. The other controls the power that directly feeds the solenoids via a relay.

thanks for your input.
i'll draw up another diagram to illustrate your suggestions and also to make sure that i understand what you are describing.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Is this Better ??
M/S = Master switch –activates “Relay A”
Relay A = Feeds power to the electronics and provides the feed needed for activation.
WOT switch = when at WOT it extends signal to the RPM window switch.
RPM Window Switch = When the rpms are above a preset low setting and below a preset max setting it Extends the activation signal to the Boost switch.
Boost switch = When the Boost is below a preset Max boost setting it will extend the activation signal to “Relay 2” and “Relay 3”
Relay 2 = Feeds POWER to “Relay 3”
Relay 3 = Feeds Power/activates the Fuel and nitrous solenoids.

M/S 2 = Feeds power to “Relay 2”
Relay 2 = Feeds power to “Relay 3”

 

[Alky V6]

Yes. That looks very nice.

 

[Alky V6]

What you could add is a signal light that tells you when the activation circuit is hot or not. That would allow you to check the light real quick before you arm the main nitrous solenoid feed circuit. Light should be off. Just another simple safeguard.
Also, with the main solenoid feed switch off and the nitrous electronics switch on, you can check the electronics circuit during a burnout. Look for the light to come on, then off.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

What you could add is a signal light that tells you when the activation circuit is hot or not. That would allow you to check the light real quick before you arm the main nitrous solenoid feed circuit. Light should be off. Just another simple safeguard.
Also, with the main solenoid feed switch off and the nitrous electronics switch on, you can check the electronics circuit during a burnout. Look for the light to come on, then off.

thanks for the ideas
Now i have to figure out where the heck i am going to install all this junk

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Yes. That looks very nice.

i'll take ideas on the Bottle warmer wiring???
thanks.

 

[Alky V6]

I wire my heater banket switch into the n2o electronics master circuit. The n20 electronics master switch must be on before the manual heater switch will operate and trip the heater blanket relay. I do this as a way to make sure I don't accidentally leave the heater on for too long and drain the battery. My master switches are the type that have that big red flap on them. It's easy to catch a switch being left on when that big red flap is up.
I normally don't run the heater without the engine running. I have a fear of the heater draining the battery down, and then not being able to start the engine in the lanes.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I wire my heater banket switch into the n2o electronics master circuit. The n20 electronics master switch must be on before the manual heater switch will operate and trip the heater blanket relay. I do this as a way to make sure I don't accidentally leave the heater on for too long and drain the battery. My master switches are the type that have that big red flap on them. It's easy to catch a switch being left on when that big red flap is up.
I normally don't run the heater without the engine running. I have a fear of the heater draining the battery down, and then not being able to start the engine in the lanes.

thanks ill follow in your foot steps.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Hey Paul
I have been looking for these for a few days now and can't find them anywhere, Can you point me in the direction of some one/place that sells them?
OR
If you have them i'll buy them off of you.
Thanks for your help.

arm switch in car with 12v at common terminal
out from switch to a 20psi hobbs with N/C terminals ... honeywell 83299 screw terminals /83314 spade terminals hobbs is NC and adjustable from 10-35
from the hobbs to a N/O terminal on leaf switch mounted at throttle linkage
from leaf micro switch common terminal to the nitrous solenoid /fuel solenoid
connect other side of solenoids to ground

once armed with the switch on theres power through the hobbs
go wot and leaf closes micro switch and nitrous is on
once boost reaches hobb setting it opens and nitrous stops
lift throttle and the throttle nitrous stops

 

[pacecarta]

napa , balkamp line about 42.00
or go to ebay and find them or similar hobbs that arent adjustable even cheaper (like 12bucks)

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

napa , balkamp line about 42.00
or go to ebay and find them or similar hobbs that arent adjustable even cheaper (like 12bucks)

I saw the eBay ones but wasn't sure of the quality, I am a cheapass but I don't want to loose an engine over $25 .
I'll hit Napa on line tonight and see what they got for me.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i also found this one http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS Performance Products/555/11205/10002/-1
thinking about ordering Two of them.

 

[pacecarta]

thats an N/O (normally open) switch that below settting its off , it would allow you to delay the nos until car is rolling and at a certain bost level , NOS would be on until you lift and boost drops

for spooling you want one thats N/C so that it will turn off once you reach a boost pressure , a leaf switch inline mounted to activate by the linkage being at WOT insures that you dont spray again on decell,

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

thats an N/O (normally open) switch that below settting its off , it would allow you to delay the nos until car is rolling and at a certain bost level , NOS would be on until you lift and boost drops

for spooling you want one thats N/C so that it will turn off once you reach a boost pressure , a leaf switch inline mounted to activate by the linkage being at WOT insures that you dont spray again on decell,

as you suggested before i AM looking for N/C . This is the reason i posted it up as i didn't find any info on weather it was one way or the other.
Once again Thanks for the help.