very angry VERY

[lilredss0287]

i did check that fuse it is still good (it says relays above the fuse right?)

I TRIED THIS AND THE FAN DID CUT ON WHEN I CONNECTED RED WITH BLACK/RED BUT WHAT DOES THE UNDERLINED SECTION MEAN??? I DONT GET IT LOL

If it does run (when connecting red in the connector to the black/red), then it would appear the relay is bad, or the ecm is not grounding the green wire when it gets up to whatever temp is programmed into your chip....it was over 200 in the stock chip. You can put the connector back on the relay, cut into the green wire and attach a ground wire to it...turn the key to the on position and the fan should run..if not, it is the relay assuming the fan connector checked okay.

 

[pacecarta]

it means the fusable link is good and you have fan supply power at the relay and that the fan works and the wiring to it is good as well as the fan ground


so that leaves the relay as the cause ..sortof
the relay does what its told , on low speed fan circuit the green wire grounds at the ecm above the turnon temp (usually 168 with aftermarket chip) , if you ground that green wire terminal (key on relay plugged in) and it works then the problem is the ecm or wiring from it to relay
if the green wire shows ground and it doesnt run then the relay could be the issue or the relay solenoid isnt getting 12v (rlys fuse)

could you have two bad relays , sure if the high was out all along and you were only running on low speed

 

[lilredss0287]

its pretty funny cause i bought the car a year ago and when i thought about it, im pretty sure it never ran...and since i bought a scanmaster a couple weeks ago i finally caught it.. it sucks cause right when i want to go to the track something always goes wrong

hopefully when i get a new relay in itll solve the problem (knock on wood)

 

[SuperSix]

If this is the biggest problem with your car, consider yourself lucky.

 

[BoostedTtype]

If this is the biggest problem with your car, consider yourself lucky.

x2

 

[turbofrank]

x3 learning curve to begin

 

[lilredss0287]

so i went to autozone bought the last relay they had in stock, pop that baby in and .........nothing happend!!!!! i got home and switched the ecm chips to see if its the chip that didnt work either...so now im stumped

 

[lilredss0287]

im going thru some of the troubleshooting tips on the chart and i figured out that the black/pink wire on the fan harness isnt letting the fan run when i apply direct voltage to it , so how exactly can this be fixed???

 

[lilredss0287]

one more update i checked the brown wire that goes to the relays with key in on position and no voltage, fuse is not blown so whats the next step???????

 

[lilredss0287]

no power to fan relays

i figured i'd post a thread in this section to get some help:

my fan hasnt been working and i realized it hasnt worked since i bought it a year ago so i did some checks--

- hoooked up battery straight to the black/pink wire to see if fan cuts on, it did
- the red wires on the relays are hot at all times
- i checked the brown wires on relays with key on and no power at all
- i checked fuse for the relay and it was still good (changed it anyway)


what now??? i tried looking behind the fuse block but how do you take it off??

 

[SuperSix]

You followed the fan trouble shooting linked above step by step and still have the issue? The wiring diagram is included in that link too.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I'll try and explain.

The big red wires on the relay come from the main starter lug and should have full time power (12vdc).

The brown wire comes from the fuse panel and gets hot (12vdc) when the key is turned on.

The ecm switches the ground (green wire) on therefore pulling the rely in and activating the low speep fan.

The high speed is activated by the sensor on top of the manifold. When it hits a certain temp the sensor closes to ground and the high speed relay is activated. I forget the temp but I think it;s like 210 or something close to that.

My bet is that your fan circuit in the ecm if not working. It happens. TurboBob on this board can fix it. In the meantime run a ground to the relay and the fan will just run with the key on.

 

[lilredss0287]

but if theres no power going to the brown wire , running a ground to the relay wouldnt work since the brown wire is basicly a ignition source

 

[TurboBuRick]

I missed that part. You have no power on the brown? And you checked all fuses? Check them again. Pull them one by one and hold up to the light. Replace any blown.

 

[Nick Micale]

i figured i'd post a thread in this section to get some help:

my fan hasnt been working and i realized it hasnt worked since i bought it a year ago so i did some checks--

- hoooked up battery straight to the black/pink wire to see if fan cuts on, it did
- the red wires on the relays are hot at all times
- i checked the brown wires on relays with key on and no power at all
- i checked fuse for the relay and it was still good (changed it anyway)


what now??? i tried looking behind the fuse block but how do you take it off??

Like I said in your other thread, the 10 gauge red wire is power to the fan. When the relay is activated, it connects/switches the red wire to the wire going to the fan.

First, you need to isolate the issue of which wire, or part of the circuit, is not functioning.

The activation/switching is done when the hot ignition wire is connected to ground via grey/red stripe wire from the sensor in the intake is grounded as water temp reaches a certain limit.

A common problem I have found is the ignition-on activation wire has no power at the relay due to an open in the wire. If this is the problem, which you can test by putting temporary power to this terminal on the relay, either find to open or break in the wire, or run a new switched 12v wire to the relay.

If the ground side of the activation circuit is not working, it is either an open in the grey/red strip wire or connector going to the sensor, or the sensor itself.

Caution, be sure to check the power/ground circuits and relay first. many times I have found the problen to be corrosion with connectors, or the gunk in the original relay connections.

This is a simple relay-operated circuit, but if you are not electrically inclined to trouble-shoot this problem, find someone that can. This is why it is a good idea to post your location, maybe a local guy can chime in and hep.

 

[TurboDave]

Power on the red wires is only part of the equation, but it's good that it's there.

Now, on to the important stuff.... The relays actually get their power from the RLYS Fuse in the fuse panel via the Brown wire. But of course if that voltage is missing your powermaster brake relay wouldn't work either. How's our brakes?
The fan relay (low speed relay) gets triggered by a ground from the ecm applied to the relay on the Dark Green wire. Once triggered the low speed fan relay sends the the Red wire voltage out to the fan on the Blk/Red wire.

You can tell the difference between the low and high speed by their output wires. The low speed will have a Blk/Red output wire, and the high speed relay will have a Blk/Pink output wire.

 

[TurboDave]

High Nick. I guess we posted simultaneously.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Yea then I posted in his other thread.

To the OP, no need to start another thread. I merged your threads.

Check all your fuses and report back.

 

[TurboDave]

It's the fuse labeled RLYS.

 

[lilredss0287]

all is good now :biggrin::biggrin: i found the orange battery wire that goes into the fuse block bottom right side was loose and wasnt making a connection....plugged everthing back in and fan cut on at 171F

bad news the muscle car car show is over now (all i wanted to do was mess with some big blocks lol