This is my first GN and first project car.

Yep .....it is running really lean. I need to do some more tuning and probably get the TT chip and. Injectors so I can tune it richer on the top end.

Before you go spending money: A) How do you know it's lean and B) what is causing this issue; b/c a chip most likely won't fix it if it's truly lean; there's probably something else going on.
 
Before you go spending money: A) How do you know it's lean and B) what is causing this issue; b/c a chip most likely won't fix it if it's truly lean; there's probably something else going on.
It is still running the factory chip and factory fuel pressure regulator .....I was assuming that this was causing the kr at the top end. Runs great at idle and mid range just not full throttle.
 
It is still running the factory chip and factory fuel pressure regulator .....I was assuming that this was causing the kr at the top end. Runs great at idle and mid range just not full throttle.

The timing in the stock chip causes KR. You'll need a new regulator with a new chip anyway. How are you determining that it's lean though? It shouldn't be lean and KR throws off O2 sensors, narrow and wideband.
 
Do I need to re torque and check the heads? Is one time 10 KR reading a head/motor killer? The other KR reading was 5 then when I gave it full throttle next time is when I saw the 10 KR reading.

No, but if you ever see KR at part throttle, figure that out before going full throttle. It's not a carb'd small block, you can't "clean it out" with more throttle.

And the timing on the stock chip is WAY too aggressive for today's gas, if you want to call it that even anymore.
 
No, but if you ever see KR at part throttle, figure that out before going full throttle. It's not a carb'd small block, you can't "clean it out" with more throttle.

And the timing on the stock chip is WAY too aggressive for today's gas, if you want to call it that even anymore.
Yep. I did not see any KR at 3/4 throttle so I gave it full throttle a couple of time when I saw the 5 and 10 KR readings . After that I parked it back in the garage until I can get the rest of the fuel related items needed......when my budget catches up. After I figure the power master problem out first.
 
Get the brakes sorted out first. When tuning, sneak up on the boost one lbs (one full turn) at a time. Start low 12-13lbs. You may need to get with people in your area to help tune. False KR and real KR can have you chasing your tail, if you don't know the difference. Knowledge is the key. ;)
 
When you got 10 deg of KR on your scanmaster, what were your O2s, or AF? Also, at what MPH did this happen at?
 
IMO, I think that was false KR. Most likely happened on the 1-2 shift, or if the tires were spinning. Check to see that your down pipe or anything else isn't hitting. How are your motor mounts? False KR usually just shoots to a high number and does it during first or second gear. Real KR will go up much slower on the scanmaster. Where you want to look for real KR is at peak torque, in 3rd gear. This should be somewhere around 80 mph. If your just using a Scanmaster to tune with, you should be extra conservative on your tune as you are not getting very accurate data with a narrow band O2.

Just take your time. Have patience. Your doing fine. Let us know how it's going.
 
tires were definitely spinning...the rubber on there now is 18 years old and the roads were really cold ( 20 degrees outside)

Spinning wheels = false KR. At that low of speed, and in a low gear, your not loading the engine enough to build the high cylinder pressures that will cause That kind of KR. Especially at rich as it was. Not to say that you cant get KR from being too rich.
 
Spinning wheels = false KR. At that low of speed, and in a low gear, your not loading the engine enough to build the high cylinder pressures that will cause That kind of KR. Especially at rich as it was. Not to say that you cant get KR from being too rich.

With a stock chip, it's possible it's real kr.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
With a stock chip, it's possible it's real kr.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
True. It could be.
However, based on the limited info we have to go off of at this point. IMO, the most likely cause of this is false KR. Especially considering spinning tires and a low MPH. The car was going even slower than recorded because the tires were spinning. KR should be treated as real until you can rule it out to be false. I'd also check your exhaust hitting against the drive shaft or rear end. Remove your knock sensor. wrap two turns of thread tape around it and tighten it down hand tight.
 
True. It could be.
However, based on the limited info we have to go off of at this point. IMO, the most likely cause of this is false KR. Especially considering spinning tires and a low MPH. The car was going even slower than recorded because the tires were spinning. KR should be treated as real until you can rule it out to be false. I'd also check your exhaust hitting against the drive shaft or rear end. Remove your knock sensor. wrap two turns of thread tape around it and tighten it down hand tight.
Yes, since I am such a newbie ....I am treating it like it was real KR to be on the safe side and will not run it till I have the brakes finished up. Then on to solving the KR issues with a Adjustable regulator, new style chip from TT and new injectors since I plan on upgrading sooner than later as I am sure once it runs right I will get addicted and want more of what it can offer.
 
Well, I am in the process of moving so I have not been able to work on the car:mad: and now it will be sometime until I will be able to work on it. I will have to wait until after the move and I get a new job. Damn!! But now that gives me time to decide if I go with the Hydromaster brakes or the vacuum brakes? Then a TTchip and 60# injectors set-up and see how it runs from there.
 
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