so p----------- off
- Thread starter crazygn
- Start date
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
man im stumped so far im working on one lately that wont turn over 4000 no matter what .
it will free rev over 4 with no problem but not under load...weird but i will figure it out.
his is mostly all stock been rebuilt and i got alot of dumb stuff to get out the way before i get directly on finding the rpm problem.
like cracked headers and other stuff making t run bad then hopefully i can find his problem and yours will be the same thing ??????????
it will free rev over 4 with no problem but not under load...weird but i will figure it out.
his is mostly all stock been rebuilt and i got alot of dumb stuff to get out the way before i get directly on finding the rpm problem.
like cracked headers and other stuff making t run bad then hopefully i can find his problem and yours will be the same thing ??????????
It will rev under load in first gear , i can hold it to about 4500rpm but it fells dead when it hits 4200. but 2nd and 3rd 4000 and theres no power and it fell like it rev very slow and wont make it past 4300 or so. I can rev it in park but it hits 4800 and a dead stop , it wont go past it even if my foot is to the floor. Thing is no back fire .
i did beat a ss monte carlo shifting at 3800 last night
i did beat a ss monte carlo shifting at 3800 last night
its the same a the scan tool, i wish. BEWEAVY and i played with it the other night and cleaned up my plug wires again after burning up my new msd's . Took some vac from the turbo350 trans and we some how got 5000-5400 rpm out of it. I ran a 2002 bulliit mustang and a 70's vett and pulled about 5-6 car on both at 16psi and 4900 rpm . I up the boost and it seems to wont to rev a little more, but to me it seems to need more power for the set up, maybe its me . I really think the problem is in the trans and stall set up iam running now , its just not right for the car and the way they work .
i think i need a real race to see what it will do then i will know where it stands.
thanks every one, and i'll let yea know how its going.
. Took some vac from the turbo350 trans and we some how got 5000-5400 rpm out of it. I ran a 2002 bulliit mustang and a 70's vett and pulled about 5-6 car on both at 16psi and 4900 rpm . I up the boost and it seems to wont to rev a little more, but to me it seems to need more power for the set up, maybe its me . I really think the problem is in the trans and stall set up iam running now , its just not right for the car and the way they work . i think i need a real race to see what it will do then i will know where it stands.
thanks every one, and i'll let yea know how its going.
Well iam unhappy again, i want out for a drive tonight and got into some racing when i know i should not but i ran a stock trans am and pulled it pretty easy, a new mustang with weld wheels , he told me it ran 13.5 , we ran from a 2nd gear 3400rpm start and i only pulled half a car on it. Then on the way home i ran a new WS6 trans am and could only stay with it but ran out of room.
The bad thing is that is at 19-20 psi, if this car runs 13's at 20 psi i need to sell it, the scan tool checks out good on every thing, just seems like its losing some pull in the 4300-5000 rpm range.I was thinking of a low to mid 12'sec car at 20psi My stock intake and ta33 would eat this setup alive. Theres gotta be something wrong.
i guess i'll park it tell my brf trans is checked out.
but i ran a stock trans am and pulled it pretty easy, a new mustang with weld wheels , he told me it ran 13.5 , we ran from a 2nd gear 3400rpm start and i only pulled half a car on it. Then on the way home i ran a new WS6 trans am and could only stay with it but ran out of room. The bad thing is that is at 19-20 psi, if this car runs 13's at 20 psi i need to sell it, the scan tool checks out good on every thing, just seems like its losing some pull in the 4300-5000 rpm range.I was thinking of a low to mid 12'sec car at 20psi
My stock intake and ta33 would eat this setup alive. Theres gotta be something wrong.i guess i'll park it tell my brf trans is checked out.
Refresh my memory...Did you do anything to the heads??? Mill the heads down any???
Reason why I'm asking is, I just got my latest edition of the GSCA GSXtra in the mail today...In it, Ramin Ansari talked about have a slow rpm climb and a low rpm ceiling...Someone suggested to him that he had to much lifter pre-load...He was using stock length pushrods with .040 milled heads...Mind you, this was with a BBB 455, but the principle is the same...Not sure if it would affect a turbo motor the same, but worth a shot to check...
Hope this helps, but if not, it rules out one more possible cause of the problem...
Reason why I'm asking is, I just got my latest edition of the GSCA GSXtra in the mail today...In it, Ramin Ansari talked about have a slow rpm climb and a low rpm ceiling...Someone suggested to him that he had to much lifter pre-load...He was using stock length pushrods with .040 milled heads...Mind you, this was with a BBB 455, but the principle is the same...Not sure if it would affect a turbo motor the same, but worth a shot to check...
Hope this helps, but if not, it rules out one more possible cause of the problem...
nope , no head work yet. All stock but the valve springs are set at 90lbs. I tryed to regap the cr43ts plugs to 30-31 , but it seems to be bad to, they where at about .33. I also unpluged my cam sensor and the car ran ok maybe a little better so i guess that means its not the cam sensor. I feels out of timing or something to me but it all reads good on the scantool and cam sensor is set.
should i go get some new plugs and try to gap them bigger.35 or more. The bad thing to is 14psi seems about the same is 20psi.
should i go get some new plugs and try to gap them bigger.35 or more. The bad thing to is 14psi seems about the same is 20psi.
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
only lifters i know of that picky about preload are comps.
my ht 969 lifters arent pumping up with all the preload.
went with single steel shim on my 87 motor which is around .040 difference and my lifters are really preloaded and my motor hits the 6200 fuel cut off with ease.
i have had some comp lifters pump up and cause that problen and only way i got it to quit was to run them at 0 lash with no preload at all or it would mess with the rpm range.
my ht 969 lifters arent pumping up with all the preload.
went with single steel shim on my 87 motor which is around .040 difference and my lifters are really preloaded and my motor hits the 6200 fuel cut off with ease.
i have had some comp lifters pump up and cause that problen and only way i got it to quit was to run them at 0 lash with no preload at all or it would mess with the rpm range.
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
not saying thats whay your problem is but i have had that problem before.
I wont run anything that says comp cams on it
I wont run anything that says comp cams on it
it could be , i dont get it so i'll try any thing. It does not back fire now , just a dead stop at 4800 in park and does not fell llike any top end pull witch i should have with this set up. Its like it has a rev limiter or the valve are floating and lot rev like it should.
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
Not sure if this will mean anything, or if any idea's will come out of it, but I just went thru a similar situation with my boat, with a chev 350...
The distributor isn't a GM HEI, but it IS one of those with the 8 metal tabs flying by a hall-effect sensor (like the crank sensor works) to trigger the coil. The specs call for a .002 gap between the tabs and the sensor.
The engine was dropping cylinders the faster it revved. Upon checking the distributor, I found the shaft has mucho play in ONE direction, indicating the shaft bushing is now oval-shaped.
I played with the sensor adjustment. When I was done, the engine ran perfectly, right up to 2000 rpm, then wouldn't go any faster, even in neutral at WOT...and as a note, there was NO backfiring going on, it just acted like engine had a governor or rev limiter...
What was happening, was the faster the distributor shaft spun, the farther the shaft (and the metal trigger tabs) was pulling away from the hall-effect switch! It's possible the advance weights had something to do with it, but regardless, the problem was simply that at higher RPM's, the trigger tabs were too far away from the sensor to trip the hall-effect switch! (I DID get it to run okay, by actually setting the air gap to ZERO! Shaft repair is coming up shortly before I wear a hole thru the $232 sensor though!)
ERGO, I'm just wondering if it's possible that, for some reason or another, that your crank sensor is losing "trips" at higher RPM's? Not exactly sure what you would want to look for? Loose trigger wheel, loose (or broken!) damper, messed-up woodruff key at the crank/damper, loose or broken crank sensor and/or the sensor mount, sensor adjustment...???
Just a thought!
The distributor isn't a GM HEI, but it IS one of those with the 8 metal tabs flying by a hall-effect sensor (like the crank sensor works) to trigger the coil. The specs call for a .002 gap between the tabs and the sensor.
The engine was dropping cylinders the faster it revved. Upon checking the distributor, I found the shaft has mucho play in ONE direction, indicating the shaft bushing is now oval-shaped.
I played with the sensor adjustment. When I was done, the engine ran perfectly, right up to 2000 rpm, then wouldn't go any faster, even in neutral at WOT...and as a note, there was NO backfiring going on, it just acted like engine had a governor or rev limiter...
What was happening, was the faster the distributor shaft spun, the farther the shaft (and the metal trigger tabs) was pulling away from the hall-effect switch! It's possible the advance weights had something to do with it, but regardless, the problem was simply that at higher RPM's, the trigger tabs were too far away from the sensor to trip the hall-effect switch! (I DID get it to run okay, by actually setting the air gap to ZERO! Shaft repair is coming up shortly before I wear a hole thru the $232 sensor though!)
ERGO, I'm just wondering if it's possible that, for some reason or another, that your crank sensor is losing "trips" at higher RPM's? Not exactly sure what you would want to look for? Loose trigger wheel, loose (or broken!) damper, messed-up woodruff key at the crank/damper, loose or broken crank sensor and/or the sensor mount, sensor adjustment...???
Just a thought!
Hey guys a fast question, i pulled my valve covers to day to check my rockers and lifters out. Question is , are these rockers like the small blocks and all where i need to check them with a feller gauge , or do i need any clearance between the rockers and the springs. Mine are very tight and it take a few turns on the screw to get it so i can move the rocker any, it even looks to be pushing the spring down pretty good when i tighten them down. This would be opening my valves if to tight right and lose compression.
So how do i check these out to make sure i dont need shorter push rods .I never checked any thing with the rockers when i put the comp 206 cam and comp lifters in , maybe this is my problem, but i did run 12.6 with them like this last year.
what do you guys think
So how do i check these out to make sure i dont need shorter push rods .I never checked any thing with the rockers when i put the comp 206 cam and comp lifters in , maybe this is my problem, but i did run 12.6 with them like this last year.
what do you guys think
Where did every one go
I put some stock speed pro 969 lifters in today and pulled my comps. I also pulled the after market pust rods out and put some stock ones in , the stock are about a 1/8" shorter then the others.
I read that the lifter preload must be at .030 to .040 is this true, if so it was probably around .060 or higher. The turbo will be back on to start it after work so i will let yea's know.
thanks guys for the help, i didnt give up yet
I put some stock speed pro 969 lifters in today and pulled my comps. I also pulled the after market pust rods out and put some stock ones in , the stock are about a 1/8" shorter then the others.
I read that the lifter preload must be at .030 to .040 is this true, if so it was probably around .060 or higher. The turbo will be back on to start it after work so i will let yea's know.
thanks guys for the help, i didnt give up yet
I haven't read the whole thread, but a friend of mine had a similar problem with his boat. The engine was a 455 Olds, and he wasn't able to get it running right. The engine was going strong up to 3800 rpm then it just died and wouldn't pull until it had been cruising at 2000 rpm for a little while, then he could rev it up to 3800 again before it died. It would go strong at 3500 - 3600 for long time without any problems.
The problems were solved when he discovered a leak in the fueltank and had to replace it: There was a small piece of plastic in the tank being drawn into the tube end when the fuel flow to the engine became strong enough.
The problems were solved when he discovered a leak in the fueltank and had to replace it: There was a small piece of plastic in the tank being drawn into the tube end when the fuel flow to the engine became strong enough.
Turbo Riviera
New Member
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
Here's a thought...
Might be it, might not. I had a problem on my '87 GN and my '84 GN that under high RPM conditions, the hose running from the MAF to the throttle body ('84) and MAF to the turbo ('87) was collapsing. Obviously it was running out of air, but I didn't realize it because I was in the car! Check the strength of all hoses from the air cleaner to the throttle body and make sure they aren't collapsing under RPM.
One way I've seen to check this is to take the air cleaner pressure gauge found on power stroke diesels and install it at the air filter. But I think you'll be able to tell if they're collapsing without going to that much effort.
Might be it, might not. I had a problem on my '87 GN and my '84 GN that under high RPM conditions, the hose running from the MAF to the throttle body ('84) and MAF to the turbo ('87) was collapsing. Obviously it was running out of air, but I didn't realize it because I was in the car! Check the strength of all hoses from the air cleaner to the throttle body and make sure they aren't collapsing under RPM.
One way I've seen to check this is to take the air cleaner pressure gauge found on power stroke diesels and install it at the air filter. But I think you'll be able to tell if they're collapsing without going to that much effort.
Similar threads
