SD2/Powerlogger Pro general discussion

I look at all the wiring and checked everything I was told and still doing the same thing. I'm at a lost when it comes to wiring. I'm looking at moving the wiring from the map to the TPS. To give it better and clean power. After that I don't know. If anyone is near Jacksonville nc within a 3 hour drive and know the new SD2 chip and can help me out I will bring the car to you for help.

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I wish I were closer.

When you say----- "I'm looking at moving the wiring from the map to the TPS." what exactly do you mean?

It still sounds like the wire from a dash light source to pin D11 on the ECM is still hooked up.
 
Dave if you have video chat I can call you to night with I get off. If you have the time.

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D, I relooked at the pics you sent me. What is that blue wire going into the powerlogger I/O board at port 5? You shouldn't need that. I recommend running a new map sensor wire. It is too hard to tell in your pics if it is just one wire from map to I/O board. Also, as bob describes somewhere in this thread you need to get clean power to the map sensor and the tps is a good source as you mentioned above. I can talk you thru that later if you want and bob has a video on it in this thread too.


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if wiring is not something you are comfortable with, then we should go slowly there.

is there a driveability issue with this? stumbles or other issues? The issue is the ground feed to the MAP sensor, there are a couple ways to fix it, some are more complicated than others.


Bob
 
Bob, we started the upgrade on Saturday, the car was in the driveway I was able to back it up and put it back in the garage wiring is not something that I'm comfortable with doing because it's a lot to mess up. However I'm open to all suggestions and all the help that I can get I did not drive the car any other place is in the garage right at the moment

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I will look for the video and try and make that fix to the map and power logger. Will call you for help.

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huntsg said:
D, I relooked at the pics you sent me. What is that blue wire going into the powerlogger I/O board at port 5? You shouldn't need that. I recommend running a new map sensor wire. It is too hard to tell in your pics if it is just one wire from map to I/O board. Also, as bob describes somewhere in this thread you need to get clean power to the map sensor and the tps is a good source as you mentioned above. I can talk you thru that later if you want and bob has a video on it in this thread too.


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Click to expand...


I'm guessing he has a pressure transducer or something similar in slot 5. Slot 5 is I4. One of the two extra optional inputs that can be fed with a 0-5v signal for logging.

Me, I feed slot 5 (I4) with my MAT sensor, to log air temps entering the throttle body.
 
USMC_Turbo6 said:
Dave if you have video chat I can call you to night with I get off. If you have the time.

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I don't have any kind of video chat.

But I agree with Bob, if you're not comfortable around wiring we need to take this slowly.

Please take a look at the picture attached here. It's a PDF file so your computer should open it easilly. See where slot D11 is on the larger connector? empty between the black wire and the black/white wire.
Is your D11 empty?????????
 

Attachments

  • ECM conn.pdf
    164.7 KB · Views: 121
there is a plug-in harness available that can be used to handle the MAP sensor wiring changes.

I just need to remember who has it. The FAST installations sometimes use it. (for the same reasons)

Bob
 
Dave I will look when I get home. THANK YOU GUYS for all of the help. I will print it off when I start looking it over.

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Called him to day. To see if he was them. If I can't get it fix tonight than I will be ordering one in the morning.

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Did some checking and looking did not have a D11 wire in. Did some change in the VE table with the car in drive, with the light and fans on and the CF is from 128-131. When the car is in park thr CF is 122-125. When I'm have the car in drive and the fan and light on the volts drop from 14 to 12 1/2 is that ok? Didn't get time to drive it but will do it when I come home tomorrow.

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USMC_Turbo6 said:
Did some checking and looking did not have a D11 wire in. Did some change in the VE table with the car in drive, with the light and fans on and the CF is from 128-131. When the car is in park thr CF is 122-125. When I'm have the car in drive and the fan and light on the volts drop from 14 to 12 1/2 is that ok? Didn't get time to drive it but will do it when I come home tomorrow.

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That's a little too much voltage drop in my book.
 
can someone take a look at this log from the other night? it was a 11.4@120 pass with a very soft launch and 1.8 60' and felt pretty strong. my questions are: should i add a little wot fuel or turn my alky up a tad more (single nozzle currently set at about 7.5) to bring my wot cf down a little? it's adding 8% at the top of third and pulls nicely with the target set where its at. 2: why would the highest mph be only 108 on the log? it's always been accurate in the past, kinda weird. i'm running 28" tires at the track but it shouldn't be that far off. and 3: the wot timing seems low, on the tune page the chart shows more like 19-20 degrees. am i leaving power on the table or should i leave it safe (knock is pretty much at bay). thanks for any help. i'm getting closer to running the number, but fried my trans on the next pass so i'm down till next year.
 

Attachments

  • september testing.005.dat
    298.6 KB · Views: 115
Why is your WOT tps at three and a half volts???? :eek:

You better get that knock under control. 1.2 degrees is a lot for the high boost you're running!!! You want NONE at such a high boost level.

Not sure about your targets because for some reason, I can't open the tune pages. They didn't come along with the log.
 
I need to get a new throttle cable or makeshift some adjustment on it.. I have to mash it into the carpet to get it to actual wot, guess I didnt stand on it enough. Yes I removed my floormat. On the knock: where it appears then goes away then comes back, is that because its actual knock and it pulled timing then it reappeared again when timing was added back in? This run was the longest ive ever stood on it without lifting, literally the first time I ever got it to the top of third gear wot. Usually I just do short bursts on the street but never really get any useable data, hence the posting of this log. I did discover my pass header is touching the control arm at full load, my rjc rear engine brace is extremely bent! Thanks for taking the time to look at it, I value your input! I cant get to the tune page when not connected to the car.
 
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