Questions as they come up about my V2 project!!

[1QUICK85]

I am going to use this thread to ask you guys any and all questions on my V2 system install~~~~hope this thread works good for me....so keep looking in here and help my sorry a$$ out!

First set of questions:

I got no vacumm block with my intake? 84/85 doesnt work! the bolts are to close together to mount it.....will the 86/87 vacumm blocks work......are the mounting bolts further apart? Anyone they got they can measure the holes in it to see how far apart they are.
The guy did give me a vacumm block off a FORD!!Maybe it will work. It is a inclosed unit that doesnt need to be mounted anywhere special. It has 4 connections and has writing on it:
Writing Hole size
S big
B/R very small
S/C medium
B/B big.........same size as the S one.

My TPS on the trottle body is busted, just noticed it, had to have happen in the delivery..... I believe it is the TPS it is on the oppisite side of were the trottle cable hooks up and has a three pin or probe connection...........the 84/85 stock one will not work as it is working in the opposite way.........the little metal clippy thing does move the same as the V2 does??? 86/87 one going to work or am i up a stream without a TPS??

Were the EGR valve connects to the intake there is the two holes for the two mounting bolts and then no hole for the EGR.....it is welded shut......ok.....good!..........but what do I do with the hole were the EGR tube runs to at the back of the intake right under were the stock system had the turbo go into? just find a bolt and put her in there.......?

How do I get the injectors out............can i just pull the whole fuel rail with the injectors? Intake is off the car now...........I am just trying to get everything organinized and ready to go and have found probs.............

Were does the V2 intercooler bracket connect to on the engine??I havent really looked to hard yet.......

NO inlet bell(got one from Turbowrenchead), vacumm block, intercooler had three leaks in it(local radiator shop fixed it for $88 and repainted it), TPS is broke and gosh darn I am just getting But, seeing has how I wont run into one of these again probably I will make it work no matter what parts I am missing or are broke....I am sure I will run into more probs........as this is my first intake and major mechanical thing I have done on a car! So I want to take my time and get things right the first time. I appreciate all you guys help and input and anything you can throw at me..........and also any advice on intake install what to look for, anything.

Ok i think that is it.........sorry for the long post........wait no I'm not Thanks again guys!
Nick

 

[fireberd350]

well i cant help you with 95% of your ?'s but I do know how to get the fuel rail off....LIFT! its just held in by the injector o-rings(assuming you took out the bolts ) work your way around it and be careful. when I lifted mine i lifted the back too much and bent(kinked) the fuel return line that connects under the AFPR, and it wasnt cheap to replace...so be careful!!

 

[1QUICK85]

I got the bolts out........AFPR is off the rail too.....and the intake is off the car so shouldnt have a prob with kinking any fuel lines.......I just wanted to check and make sure I was doing it right.....so I am and I will go and give her another tug.
Thanks, Nick

 

[1QUICK85]

Ok guys I still need some answers to my first set of questions, anybody out there running a V2? I know you guys are there

I was throwing stuff on to the intake.........like fuel rail with my 40#'s, temp sensor, etc. I noticed the V2 has two ports under the thermostat housing??? the one is for the temp sendor and the other is for what..............another temp sendor port maybe?

Thanks guy my project is going along pretty good.........esspecially since it is my first intake swap and injector swap and turbo swap.........thanks again Nick

 

[6 to go]

The vacuum ports on the throttle body should be blocked and
use the closed vacuum block to run your vacuum lines.
Mount it in a convenient place. The correct block to fit
the throttle body, is, of course, the 86/87 style block.
The stock vacuum block will interfere with the hose from the turbo
to the IC when you are all done, if you try it. HTH

 

[6 to go]

BTW, the TPS is a stoock 86/87 style. Just go the parts
house and buy a new one.

 

[1QUICK85]

87 TPS........thanks that helps a lot!!

So I cant use the 87 stock vacumm block on my V2 and because it will interfer with the hoses going to the intercooler..were can I find a closed vacumm block or do I have to make some sort of plate for the bottom of my 85 vacumm block.

Also that is a PCV valve on the back side of the intake, is it worth wild to eliminate that with some sort of check valve that ATR or someone sells.

Nick

 

[6 to go]

You will have to use a vacuum block that is closed.
The pipes will interfere with the factory one.
Jay made a block that he supplied with the kit.
Yours may have been lost or ???????.
HTH

 

[1QUICK85]

Never got one with the kit..........except for some vacumm block for a FORD!!

There is no place I can get one?
Could I use the stock 85 and put a piece of metal on the bottom to seal it.............

Ordered a ATR downpipe and they went up in price.....damn I should have ordered it a couple of months ago when I was going to. Ordered my TPS sensor too!!

That extra port by the temp sensor is for the "S" shaped 87 hose that I got!! Just have to get a fitting to go in the intake...

Nick

 

[6 to go]

Nope, sorry, but you have to have a vacuum source.
That's why it sits on top of the TB - to get vacuum.
Go to the sticky's and I think BFH has a good vacuum
drawing and then map yours out from your new
vacuum block and source to do the same functions.
Sorry I can't be more help.

 

[1QUICK85]

Thanks man, I talked to the guy I bought it from and he said the vacumm block he gave me is what he was given. So if the block doesnt sit on top of the TB then were does it get its vacumm from? Please be patient with my slow a$$!

Nick

 

[BuickTV6]

V2 help for you!!!!

This is how it goes. Theres 2 ports on the backside of the intake manfold. This is where you get your vacuum sources from. the one on the drivers side has a bigger port on it. What you need to do is run a hose from that port on the intake to the check valve that was supplied with the kit. If you dont have a check valve, you'll have to get one. Install the checkvalve with the arrow on it pointing to the intake. You do this so when you're under boost, the check valve shuts and no boost goes to the vacuum block, because anything connected to the vacuum block does not need boost. Then Run a hose from the check valve to one of the big fittings on the Vacuum block. Then connect all your vacuum hoses to that block the same way it was on the old hotair setup. Connect lines to purge canister,cruise control,air conditioning/heater controls, pcv valve, line and to egr solenoid right into the vacuum block and you're done with Vacuum lines. I mounted my vac block right on the firewall closer to the drivers side wherre a ground was attached, so it was close to the intake, and easy to run.


Now the port on the passanger side of the intake manifold is also prettty simple. What you want to do with this port is to connect anything to it that needs boost. Such as your fuel pressure regulator, and your boost guage and such. Anything that needs boost, connect to that port


The only other thing you may experience problems with is mounting the intercooler. You should have recieved a intercooler bracket in the kit. It has 2 pieces of metal welded together. One side mounts to the side on the intercooler with 2 bolts, and then there should be 1 on the bottom. On the opposite side of that there should be a hole for one screw to go in. This side of the bracket is what mounts to the engine. It gets mounted to the lowest bolt on the passanger side of the engines front cover. Right above the oil filter. This gets quite tricky to get just right, as it took me a few times to drive it home. The easiest thing to do is to mount the intercooler to the bracket loose. You will also want to snug it up to the front cover but not too tight, cause you want the intercooler to be able to move around when putting the piping on. If you try tightening the IC bracket up too tight, it will want to wander off and get out of line, and will interere with your stearing.You will probably need an extra set of hands to help you with this cause I did . After the intercooler is loosly mounted to the front cover, dry fit all your piping to see where it will all go. Then you have to slowly put it all together snugging up all the clamps that runs from the turbo to the intercooler. after its all in place and the pipes are where you want them, use a swivel rachet to snug up the bolt on the front cover where the IC is mounted, and then righten all of your clamps. If it is all done correctly, the intercooler will be very tight and will not have any play in it at all. Be aware that if any of the pipes are not hooked up to the turbo or intercooler, the intercooler will move a little. Thats why it is very important to do this in sequence, or things will not line up well. I actually Had Jay, the maker of the kit assist me on the phone while I did this! so he seems to know best!

I think that is pretty much it for the installation. Everything else is pretty self explanitory, but if you have any more question, i'll be happy to answer. sorry for such the long writeup, and I hope its what you need! Its still all freash in my mind as I just put mine on lasty week! HTH!

 

[1QUICK85]

That helps me out alot..........
Now I am good on everything that needs to be done. Just looking for some pipe fittings and looking for a one way valve or check valve. Thanks for info guys.

Nick

 

[6 to go]

The check valve that ATR sells is a plug and play for the large
port he is talking about.

 

[1QUICK85]

I have two vacumm holes coming off the intake...........one is towards the back on the driver's side..........and the other one is on the passenger side...............the only check valve I saw in the ATR catalog was the Positive Action Check Valve...part number CV101......which looks like one of my vacumm fitting going in to the intake with a check valve on it that pushes into were the PVC valve goes?? Dont I need to run that PVC? Is there a check valve made that can just screw into the intake like the regular vacumm valve does?? Or is there a inline check valve available, that I could run in the vacumm line before it gets to the vacumm block?

TIA Nick

 

[6 to go]

ATR says that their check valve replaces the PCV valve.
I put it in series with a GM PCV valve on my car
and it all seems to work.

 

[BuickTV6]

I used a pcv valve right where it is supposed to be. The only place the check valve is needed is on the drivers side intake port where the vacuum lines run. All you need is a one way check valve for the vac block. just cut 2 pieces of vacuum line. Run one from the port on the intake to the check valve with the arrow on the valve pointing towards the intake, and another line from the other end of the checkvalve to one of the big ports on the vacuum block. I would just use the pcv valve and dont worry about putting a check valve there. Just put in a pcv valve wherre it belongs, on the driver side back of the intake, and run a vac hose from the pcv valve to the vacuum block.

 

[6 to go]

I used the check valve behind the PCV valve to help my
blowing oil problem. It did and everything works
so I'm leaving it alone. It works for me.

 

[1QUICK85]

Ok guys good advice.............I am going to go ahead and order the check valve from ATR and figure out how I want to run it....I think most my answers have been answered.......but more advice is always nice..........any advice in how to put the intake in.......torque it to 45lbs. i believe.......and special pattern........were do i need to use gasket sealer at on the metal gasket I have for the intake?? Picked up my TA49 from the guy today........man that thing is going to kick my a$$ all over the road....

Just wanted to say thanks agian and keep the info coming for me.......I am feeling very confident with this project thanks to your guys and this board!!!

Oh one more question: The new "s" hose connects to the thermostat housing and the water pump............didnt the water pump hose run to the metal line above the metal plate that covers the passenger side injectors?? What goes to that spot now that the water pump hose runs to the thermostat housing??

TIA Nick

Nick

 

[6 to go]

The heater lines routing is the same with the TM kit
as before. The "s" hose is the bypass that Jay blocked
off.