Pics of TRZ rack from underneath please!

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I never noticed any feedback at the steering wheel, but as seen in videos there's a heck of alot of bump steer going on, the front wheels shimmy from side to side upon landing the wheel stand. I'm planning on replacing all the original (yes all vintage 1987) center links before I take it out again.

The A-arms are from PA racing, so I know there's no play in the suspension... From what I've been reading on this forum and others, I think it's all in the steering linkage. Also, I've replaced the steering box with a Flaming river manual unit...so I know it's not in the box.

BUT, you also loose all bumpsteer issues which is nice when you carry the front end for a ways:D No more of the steering wheel trying to be ripped out of your hand when the wheels touch back down.
 
I never noticed any feedback at the steering wheel, but as seen in videos there's a heck of alot of bump steer going on, the front wheels shimmy from side to side upon landing the wheel stand. I'm planning on replacing all the original (yes all vintage 1987) center links before I take it out again.

The A-arms are from PA racing, so I know there's no play in the suspension... From what I've been reading on this forum and others, I think it's all in the steering linkage. Also, I've replaced the steering box with a Flaming river manual unit...so I know it's not in the box.

I had the s-10 manual box. It always had about 1/4 turn of play when the wheels touched back down.
 
cool deal Chris.. I did mine a little different. I chose not to run the shaft threw the frame..and only used 2 of the u-joints
 
I don't think there's enough room. But is it possible at all? Thoughts? Since my cross member is modified, I'm using the center link and lower A-arm pivot point as a known (stock) reference point.

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I agree, theres enough space for the rack. If you get creative with the shaft it looks like you could make it work.
 
Curious, is the only reason you guys are converting to a rack, the bump steer issue? I'm not getting any of the steering wheel ripping out of my hand on touch down like was mentioned. Don't think this has anything to do with bump steer, but I'm also running the Flaming Rivers manual box.

Does anyone know the weight savings of going to the rack?
 
i just did it cause it looked cool, and i wasnt happy with my s-10 box..

and the steering ratio on the rack is quicker..
 
Curious, is the only reason you guys are converting to a rack, the bump steer issue? I'm not getting any of the steering wheel ripping out of my hand on touch down like was mentioned. Don't think this has anything to do with bump steer, but I'm also running the Flaming Rivers manual box.

Does anyone know the weight savings of going to the rack?

I did it for weight savings initially. After driving a mustang I noticed how much better the steering felt after a long wheelstand so I swapped.
 
Chris. How much was your crossmember dropped to make room for the oil pan??

The issue I see is being able to set the height of the rack so that your rack arms will be at the correct angle to eliminate bumpsteer.

I doubt you'd be able to mount is as closely to the crossmember as the rest of us. You'd probably have to move it forward toward the radiator so you could move it higher.

Here's a vid of my 5.12 qualifying pass. It's about 4 seconds into the vid. Wish the vid would have caught the whole launch.

It was the 1 and only qual pass we got due to rain. It went 1.37 to the 60' and 144 on 22# of boost. It later went 5.05 on 24# and 1.34 to the 60'. The 94mm will only make 24#

YouTube - Huntsville ORSCA
 
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