Open Car Trailer Discussion

20psiofevil

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2013
I'm in the market for a car trailer. I cant decide between an 18' or 16' and metal or wood. The only reason I'd go 16' is because storage as my garage is 20' deep. Also need to buy a hitch for my truck (it's a stock height 04 1500) and wondering if I'll need a 2" or 4" drop hitch. I actually bought the truck about a month ago to tow my race car and hope the 5.3l does well pulling a car and trailer occasionally.
 
I have an '03 Sierra 1500 with a 5.3 and it pulls my full weight T on my 16' open perfect. No stabilizer bars either. 2" drop should be fine
 
kirban 2 cents worth....

Having trailered over 300 plus of these cars.....went thru 2 open trailers.....

16 foot is the ticket....

the lighter the better

swap out the trailer tires for a radials and get the wheels balanced...

don't worry about drop hitch until you actually put car on the trailer...Bilstein shocks on the truck are the best probably...

I went thru 2 of the 2500 HD 8.1 trucks with the allison transmissions....

denniskirban@yahoo.com

get a lot of thumbs up with open trailer and any nice turbo regal on it.....
 
Thanks for the input guys. I wish I were pulling a turbo regal but this trailer will be pulling a new edge turdstang. Wheel base, length, and weight is very close to a g body though. I'm taking next Saturday off work and headed out to the place in the link. So any other input before then will be greatly appreciated! Also love to hear feedback between metal and wood. I weld for a living so will customize what ever trailer I leave with d rings and winch. On that note what capacity winch should I get for a 3200lb car? Been looking at the harbor freight units.

http://www.oquinntrailer.com/all-inventory/car-racing
 
Trailer build makes a big difference.. never had issue towing a 18-20 ft from Diamond C.. look up the challenger.... best steel open trailer you can buy... and tows like it.
 
Those look like some reasonably priced trailers. I would recommend getting electric brakes on both axles, if possible and a trailer with a removable fender. I can't speak for the winch, though. I would think wood would be fine, especially since you're storing in a garage

I'm also looking for an open trailer, and the used ones are usually trashed.
 
If your car sits low , get it with the 2' dove tail so you don't high center your car when loading it .
 
I have been looking on the used market (fb market place and craigslist) and it seems everyone wants new or more than new prices. My car does sit low so I will look into the 2' dovetail, thanks for the heads up Dynoman.
 
Here's a pic from a couple friends who bough their trailer from those guys
 

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Even if you get a dovetail trailer you may want to take a few 2x8's. My GN was stock height with no lower spoilers and my dads trailer had the slide out rails that puts the rails almost 2 inches below the trailer when they were fully pulled out and the rails were shorter than those on my old Kaufman. The bottom of my front bumper hit the rails. What???!!, but wait it gets better, the flange for the cat hit the trailer right above the left side ramp and pulled apart my 2 piece down pipe. Ugggghhh!!!! My dad has created longer rails and the rails rest much further up the dovetail to change the load angle. If I stop be there tomorrow I will take pics of the situation if you are interested about things to look out for.
 
Oh yeah definitely interested. I figured I'd have to place blocks under the ramps to avoid tearing my Mach chin spoiler off.
 
My 20' TX rollback wasn't cheap. Loads Vettes w/o issues. No ramps to mess with. Pull 1 pin, release the two side locks, roll it back. Bought it new in 94.
Fenders are removable.
Winch is older Superwinch 5000#. Have to use a snatch block to unload the electric system, when pulling a GN onto it. I'd buy an 8K winch, if I did it again.
Brakes on both axles is a DOT requirement, for a trailer that big.
Power tongue jack is NICE, as are deck lites.
 
My 20' TX rollback wasn't cheap. Loads Vettes w/o issues. No ramps to mess with. Pull 1 pin, release the two side locks, roll it back. Bought it new in 94.
Fenders are removable.
Winch is older Superwinch 5000#. Have to use a snatch block to unload the electric system, when pulling a GN onto it. I'd buy an 8K winch, if I did it again.
Brakes on both axles is a DOT requirement, for a trailer that big.
Power tongue jack is NICE, as are deck lites.
Is this the type where the whole deck pivots and then evens out when the car pulls forward?
 
Is this the type where the whole deck pivots and then evens out when the car pulls forward?

Yep. Works just like a roll back wrecker. Has 12 steel rollers, running in channels. It rolls back over the axles, tips down, puts the tip of the bed on the ground. Drive on, Set the trlr brakes, drive the tow vehicle forward to til it tips flat, then forward to the stops. Insert the pin at the hitch, release the 2 side pins. Done.:cool:
 
Yep. Works just like a roll back wrecker. Has 12 steel rollers, running in channels. It rolls back over the axles, tips down, puts the tip of the bed on the ground. Drive on, Set the trlr brakes, drive the tow vehicle forward to til it tips flat, then forward to the stops. Insert the pin at the hitch, release the 2 side pins. Done.:cool:
now thats how to do it!...i hate dealing with ramps.
 
My 20' TX rollback wasn't cheap. Loads Vettes w/o issues. No ramps to mess with. Pull 1 pin, release the two side locks, roll it back. Bought it new in 94.
Fenders are removable.
Winch is older Superwinch 5000#. Have to use a snatch block to unload the electric system, when pulling a GN onto it. I'd buy an 8K winch, if I did it again.
Brakes on both axles is a DOT requirement, for a trailer that big.
Power tongue jack is NICE, as are deck lites.
I've looked at a few tilt trailers but out of my price range atm. You can almost buy an enclosed for what those are going for. So what do you think Chuck, 16' with 2' dovetail or 14' with 2' dovetail?
 
You can also use the jack at the front of the trailor to bring up the nose of the trailor lowering the rear if clearance is an issue, Clarence.
 
If you got semi deep pocket, buy you a new or used aluminum Challenger trailer. I'm sold !!!!!!!
 
I've looked at a few tilt trailers but out of my price range atm. You can almost buy an enclosed for what those are going for. So what do you think Chuck, 16' with 2' dovetail or 14' with 2' dovetail?

As I posted, mine is 20'. The reasoning is it provides "coverage" for the entire body, of a vehicle such as a Vette, Regal, etc.
I like the long bed, as I feel as tho it tows better, at hi speeds. JMO.
As for the dove tail, 2' is pretty common.
I've had mine since 94. I pd 3K for it, added the ft air dam, the winch, the elec jack. So, about $4500.
1 thing I did regret...The in-floor storage boxes..NASTY! Not water proof, w/ rusty water blowing down the sides of the trailer/vehicle. The plasma cutter and welder took care of that mistake.
Don't forget the breakaway requirement! Mine charges when the trlr is in use, has a trickle on it, stored. LED lites!
A problem loading a pic...Usual BS.
 
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