Need Help - Car Stumbles/Hesitates

[BLACK6PACK]

The blm at 90 would mean that the car is pig rich and is trying to pull fuel (I could be wrong- first time for everything). Have you checked to make sure you have no leaks in the air intake between the maf and TB. It would be nice if the car would throw a code.

 

[ULOSE2A6]

TTT

 

[ULOSE2A6]

I am going to check with the scaanmaster again toady and see what the BL's and the other readings would be. I will keep you all informed as to what I come up with.

 

[ULOSE2A6]

Well the scanmaster readings were all well within the recommended ranges. I am going to check fior crimped wires or loose grounds, but my hope for it being something simple like that is dwindling, I am loosing hope here guys. What else am I missing here.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Dude, I'd love to help, but you way beyond me in TR knowledge.

Have you tried kicking it and cussing at it? It may not work, but it'll make you feal better.

I'll keep my brain working on it and ask around.

 

[Devil Car]

I think that you may have once stated that you tried unplugging the cam sensor and running it, but if not try doing this. If you unplug the connector on the cam sensor, the car will run in batch fire mode; therefore, it will not be commanded by the cam sensor.

Your problem is very similar to one that I had. After unplugging the cam sensor, the problem went away. I then ended up adjusting the cam sensor very small distances until the rpm changed pitch. After lots of testing and tuning, I finally found a position where the car would not hesitate anymore.

FWIW, the cam sensor was set correctly (using Casper's tool), but my car just needed a slightly different setting on the cam sensor.

HTH
Craig

 

[Tom87GN]

For what it's worth, I am a big fan of adjustments of the cam sensor now.

I just tracked down a different issue on a friends WE4 with some crazy knock numbers. Turns out the cam sensor was out of adjustment. Once set correctly, his knock dissapeared. It is theoretically possible that the car could miss and buck as well, depending on the tune of the car. I know that several other factors could come into play as well, just my .02 worth.

 

[6=8]

How's the diags coming? Any luck on tightening up the grounds?

I like Devil Car's suggestion on unplugging the cam sensor. Here's why:

My car was hesitating and poping upon light accel. I posted by issues here, and someone told me to start the car, unplug the cam sensor, and drive it around.

My car ran WAY better... so I was on to something...

Turns out I was missing enough teeth on the cam sprocket to cause problems with the cam sensor position. Since it is used to control the injectors, fuel was added at the wrong time in some cases, causing "Almost stalls" and limited RPM range (Couldn't rev over 3000 RPM.)

If you have exhaused all electrical items, you may need to begin to look at things more mechanical in nature. Things that come to mind are timing chain, sticking valves, broken valve spring, wiped cam lobe.... All of which may be related to the problem you describe...

I hope this helps. Good Luck!

 

[ULOSE2A6]

Well I kept driving "BUCKY-O'HARE" (my car's new nick name) and I finally got a malfunction code come up... CODE 34, which is MAF circuit low or no signal. I have changed the MAF and I have checked the grounds and I had to make a repair on one of the grounds. It was not completely busted out but it probably would have been soon. I also have checked the TPS and it too was within the alignment specs. I thought that getting the code would help narrow down the search but I have swapped out MAF and have checked the things that would cause the code but I still get the code and I do not know what to look for next. Any help now would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ULOSE2A6]

PROBLEM SOLVED !!!! Well I believe that I have solved the problem with the hesitation and hiccups and bucking. Well actually the credits go to my pops who was helping me mess around with the car today and he came up with the briliant idea to check the plug connector going to the MAF and it so happens that one of the wire going into the plug was broken. It was not totally broken off so it was shorting out while driving along and I guess it was only when it was almost completly broken that it trowed the code 34 and this helped us narrow down the search. We repaired the wire and the plug and I just came back from test driving it and so far no problems with acceleration and no hesitations. I would like to thank all those that responded and gave me great suggestions. I am thankful that the problem was not worse that what it was and I hope that for future reference the solution here can be helpful. Well thanks again all.

 

[6=8]

Sweet! Way easier than a timing chain!

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Dude, I was just thinking (after you said code 34) that since you had switched out mafs that it could be in the wiring. I didn't post it since I figured you were smart enough to check that . That is one thing I get used to checking is the wiring. 206k miles makes for a lot of busted/fragile/corroded/pinched wiring.

Glad to hear you don't have to ride bucky anymore. Bucky is a girl right.

 

[Tom87GN]

Great to hear you tracked down that gremlin, ULOSE2A6! I love finding and fixing the problem. I'll bet you had a grin from ear to ear after fixing that thing! When I fixed my buddies knock problem, I don't think I slept very well that night. All I could think about were Buicks going down the track!