Installing a new turbo

Not sure how i havent managed to kick a dent in the side of this car yet lol.

Started out this morning on the allan key screws on the THDP and two of them come out perfect the other two are rounded completely off . Cant win lol.

Still trying to locate a 16mm line wrench for the FPR. AutoZone is out and waiting on Advanced to open
 
Hot wire kit negates the use of a volt booster. Volt boosters are old tech. I use a torch to heat the turbine housing for bolt removal. I start with pblaster 2 days before removal. I also tighten the bolt a tick to break them, then back them out.

On a side note when removing exhaust hardware....I sacrifice a live chicken and two beers before any attempt. :)

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You'll get it. I have faith in you.... And I killed a chicken for you.

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1. Change the fpr and chip and injectors first. Then go for a nice long ride and make sure all is good.

2. As soon as you get back try a large pair of vise grips on the DP bolts. Hopefully you get lucky. Make sure you put the vise grips on the right way and tighten them as tight as you can possibly squeeze them closed.

Plan b. take car to a muffler shop and have them remove the DP bolts. They will probably weld a nut on the stripped out bolts heat them and they will hopefully come right out.

Good luck
 
Will do , that sounds like the best idea. Im still trying to track down a 16mm line wrench all the auto parts stores are out except one store 30 miles away. I have to drive to that area tomorrow so i will pick it up then.
 
If the bolts are already stripped, they will need to be replaced. Since that's the case, don't worry about screwing them up. I had one break, and one round out. I ended up getting both out with my trusty pipe wrench!! Had to do that on a brake line at the master cylinder also.
 
Got the injectors changed out and the FPR installed. After the first install it was spraying fuel found the o ring cut up on the regulator. Changed that out and no more fuel that i can see. It looks like one of the injectors is sitting a little crooked im about to rip it apart and start all over i dont like the look of it or need to be stranded somewhere. After everything was changed i installed the TT chip and cranked her up started just fine. Drove around the block and got the mal code 45 which we all know what that means. I guess its time to figure out to tune, leaving the stock turbo on for now. My AF on the Scanmaster reads 5, it used to be way higher not sure how to adjust that. Also the gauge on my rail is sitting in the 20s, used to be 40sh with the stock FPR. Any tips?
 
It is , the nut is all the way down. I was googling the adjustments. The car dies out at WOT. It idles and drives normal fine im guessing i need to add some fuel
 
I was done for the day , decided to do some research. I didnt adjust it with the vacuum line off yet didnt even know that lol. The powerlogger wont connect to my labtop again for some reason going to look into this again first.
 
I got the injectors and the TT chip for the injectors installed. It has to be a fuel issue when i get back home im going to look back into it
 
It is , the nut is all the way down. I was googling the adjustments. The car dies out at WOT. It idles and drives normal fine im guessing i need to add some fuel
I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence but, on the adjustable fpr I just got from kirban, the adjustment is an Allen key on the top and the nut is to lock it. Were you possibly just spinning the nut thinking it was the adjustment?
 
Lol no worries you are probably right no damn wonder it didnt do anything different. I only looked at it for a minute, then my wife pulled up and we had to run to dinner. I spent about 7 hours out the day installing everything lol. When i get back home in an hour im going to check that again

I feel retarded now lol
 
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If it looks like that it's an Allen key on top. Disconnect vacuum line on top and set it to 43 psi while running. It should drop to around 38 with vacuum line connected
 
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