Idles 1000 rpm

[jim0207]

All sensors are new and known to be in good working order. All vacuum lines are brand new. Good 93 octane and I use TT 5.7. My signature will provide additional information. At idling #'s are:
TPS-40
MAF-005-006
02-.08-.94
BLM-142
INT-128
Temp-96
Open loop
IAC 57 @96degrees-005 @165degrees
LV8-32
RPM- 1000 @ 96d and @ 165 d

What should I look into. MY TB blade is closed, my adjustment screw is backed completely off.

 

[FullThrottle87]

That screw does not control the idle speed, its controlled @ the IAC Valve.
What is the voltage at your Throttle Position Sensor with everything hooked up?
You should be around 0.38v-0.44v at idle with throttle blade closed, 4.4volts or so @ wide open throttle.
If I'm not mistaken your IAC number should be around 20 or less, but I might be getting confused with something else.

 

[FullThrottle87]

Keep looking for vacuum leaks, maybe the intake manifold, or the rubber connectors where a vinyl vacuum line adapts to a component.
It seems like I keep finding vacuum leaks even after I think that I've gotten all of them squared away and replaced all my hoses, oh, there's another one!

 

[Shawn N]

Chip controls idle rpm's through the IAC but if the screw has been jacked with that's likely what's wrong. Adjust it a little and see if you can get the idle down to 850 on the scanmaster.

 

[buddy]

I had same problem and it turned out the cruise control cable was holding throttle blade open, try disconnecting it and see if it backs off. Just a thought.

 

[toofastforyou]

This happened to me last summer and on my case, it turned out that I had a blown intake gasket… The computer seeing the large amount of air going into the engine was trying to compensate a lean condition by putting more fuel which in turn was increasing the rpm's…

Claude.

 

[jim0207]

I had same problem and it turned out the cruise control cable was holding throttle blade open, try disconnecting it and see if it backs off. Just a thought.

Now that is a good possibility.

 

[bpman1234]

Blms high .vac leaks keep looking you got more also check cracked header .also if you have an afpr diaphragm might be leaking .

 

[jim0207]

Blms high .vac leaks keep looking you got more also check cracked header .also if you have an afpr diaphragm might be leaking .

The headers are the GS Club header by Hooker. The idea of my PR showing signs off aging is not far from reality. It has been on the rail for 20 years.

 

[bad V6]

The adjustment screw should be adjusted in until it makes contact with the linkage then roughly 2 full turns when the IAC and TPS are correctly set.

 

[aminga]

All sensors are new and known to be in good working order. All vacuum lines are brand new. Good 93 octane and I use TT 5.7. My signature will provide additional information. At idling #'s are:
TPS-40
MAF-005-006
02-.08-.94
BLM-142
INT-128
Temp-96
Open loop
IAC 57 @96degrees-005 @165degrees
LV8-32
RPM- 1000 @ 96d and @ 165 d

What should I look into. MY TB blade is closed, my adjustment screw is backed completely off.

Unless you dropped a 1 in the engine temp it's not fully warmed up. Try again with it warmed up.

 

[69RSCLONE]

Definitely looks like a vacuum leak. MAF reading at 1000 rpm would be higher than 5-6. Like already stated, intake gaskets, dog house, pcv. Probably something of decent sized leak. Spray some carb cleaner around and listen for the idle to raise.