Holding boost at the line

tlturbo

Tag - WUTSA V8
Joined
May 27, 2001
OK, let's hear others methods.

I can hold 10 lbs at the line but do you guys build the 10 lbs in pre-stage or after final stage?

Our tree operators are pretty quick and I find if I final stage then bring boost up to a steady 10 psi, they might trigger the tree before I'm there.

If I build 10 psi in pre-stage, it is a pain to then try and inch forward into final stage holding 10 psi.

How do you guys do it?

Terry
 
I fully stage (as quick as possible. ie FIRST) then build 15psi then let 'er rip.. My reaction times are BAAAAADDDD but I don't care about anything but the ET/MPH.. I won't launch until the boost gauge is reading what I want it to.

:cool:
 
if you wanna win bracket races, forget building boost unless you have a well matched converter....ie one that will build the same boost off the first yellow every time (not the stage yellows)

if you can't do that, just leave at zero boost or some consistent rpm...you won't go as fast, but you will be consistent........

that's what wins bracket races

if you are racing heads up, you need to start building boost when both racers have turned on both stage lites...otherwise, if you do like Kevins, and I am racing him, I will lite the first stage lite and sit there until he either red lites or blows his tranny/engine/thrust bearing/......in other words, I will burn him down.......

guys that stage early piss me off!!!
 
What I am doing, I installed a hobb's swicth and have it connected to a shift light. I have the Hobb's swicth set at 4#, So when I prestage I bring the boost to zero and bump into the stage beam. Where I watch the tree, but also give some gas to get the boost up to 4# And I can see the shift light out of the corner of my eye. So If I do my job I am at 4# by the time the third yellow comes on, so "sometimes" I can cut a good light. But the car is very consistent.
 
Heres a question I always wondered- Does a bad reaction time affect your final ET. say you run a 13.00 run and your reaction time was a terrible 1.00, would you actually run a 12.50 if you could catch a perfect .500 light?
 
No timers dont start until you move. I always sit for a while and build boost and everybody tells me that i need to work on my reaction times but of course they dont know what im doing.
 
What are you guys doing to hold so much boost at the line and not frying the tires?

I have not done the S10 wheel cylinder modification yet and I'm on BFG drag radials. I can only manage to hold 3 psi at the line before the tires break loose.

Does the S10 mod with 2 long shoes help hold that much more boost?

FS
 
I still use the stock brakes, ie no big cylinders or shoes.
I just push until the brake pedal goes through the floor board and my shoes hit the concrete. I use a really soft compound sole on my shoes and this helps hold the car back..:D
 
i've got a problem and i figured this is as good of place to post as any. I was trying to build up some boost today from a stop and could only get 2#. the wheels weren't spinning, it wouldn't build any more boost. I have a pretty well stock set up except for whats in my signature. any ideas?

Have you checked the driver side header? Typically there will be a crack between 3-5 exhaust ports.
 
Best method for me, pre-stage, bring it to 4-5psi, then let it inch forward and stage. When I fully stage and then try to build boost I find myself leaving at 1-2psi. Anyone else use this method?

pat
 
sounds to me like you guys need to learn how to drive them buick lmao. First off, you need to pre stage and stop there. Build the boost up a few pounds almost until the car inches forward. Then stage it and once u flash the converter, by this time he is starting the tree floor the car all the way down, by doing this you are flashing the converter to buil a ****load of boost once u leave the line. My 60ft times are 1.65's and the car run's 12.50 @ 109mph at around 13 pounds of boost. My car falls on it's face in the big end because i use those dumbass 28in tall slicks. I have stock turbo w/ 3in downpipe, K&N Filter, 100 octane chip, rear air bags, Adjustable fuel regulator, 305 fuel pump. I think if i went back to 26in slicks ill be around 12.0's or something.
 
Originally posted by d0n_3d
reaction time is only important in bracket racing
reaction times can mean the differance between win and loose if the two cars are closely matched.
 
MY best reactions times were around 10 psi of boost because our lights down here are very quick also, just make sure your the last one to stage so you can do it calmly.

I've gotten .030 - .100 lights consistantly with only 10 psi of boost, any more and the tires start to move on their own.
 
I've gotten .030 - .100 lights consistantly with only 10 psi of boost, any more and the tires start to move on their own.

how do your lights work in Co. Here in Ohio, a perfect light is .500 of 1 second. I find it best to let off the brake at the start of the last yellow on the tree.
 
Yes, perfect is .500 but most people just say how much it is after the .500. A .600 would be called a .100, just depends on situation.

But the .500 is the time that the yellow light turns off and the green light turns on. I launch when I see the yellow light turn on. By the time your brakes let go your tires mark over the line at a pretty good time.
 
At Bandimere in Colorado, they iinstalled new LED lights this year and a perfect light is "0.000". My first pass this year I ran a .515 and thought "all right" but then found out it equated to a 1.015 on last years trees. :(
 
Yes, WHAT SHOULD happen is on the timesheet it should say .100, but really MEAN .600 in actual time.
 
Hand Brake Method

To be quick with the light and be a good Bracket Racer, I used the Hand Brake method. Pre-stage, bring it up to #10 and then stage. You can play with the boost as much as you like. #15 +
Kind of a pain in the A$$ but it works..
 
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