Help Me Tune
- Thread starter thbjcb
- Start date
Sinister CO
Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2005
If memory serves I have a poly motor mount on the drivers side and a regular one on the passenger side.
Replaced the trans mount and the back of the trans sits about a 1/2" higher. by doing this is added clearance for down by the frame but it also caused the heat shield by the Ac/firewall on the passenger side to rub so bend that up. My son helping me noticed that the down pipe had a melt spot on the rubber coated AC line that runs by the pipe. Currently there is a 3/8" gap, with the car in drive and load up slightly he can almost see them touching. So from this I know the engine is rotating about a 1/2" under load. So does this mean the drivers side motor mount is bad or is this normal. I had the strap unhooked
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NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
1/2 max movement doesn't seem like a lot. But, is that all there is?
Check with the pry-bar again. Look for separations or unusual movement. Mostly on the passenger side. I know this is a PITA when you don't have a lift. But again, the more you look around, the better you'll feel about leaving no stone un-turned.
Outside the garage, build some boost on the foot brake. Have someones stand along side the car and take a look to verify the amount of engine rotation. Log for knock as well.
If you still determine you have too much engine movement then maybe you do need motor mounts. But, maybe you can just tighten up on that ratchet strap a bit.
Check with the pry-bar again. Look for separations or unusual movement. Mostly on the passenger side. I know this is a PITA when you don't have a lift. But again, the more you look around, the better you'll feel about leaving no stone un-turned.
Outside the garage, build some boost on the foot brake. Have someones stand along side the car and take a look to verify the amount of engine rotation. Log for knock as well.
If you still determine you have too much engine movement then maybe you do need motor mounts. But, maybe you can just tighten up on that ratchet strap a bit.
Open hood.
Have observer watch engine from the side, or if by yourself, see if you can look between the hood & cowl at the top of the engine.
Start engine, apply brake & hold, place in drive, apply small amount of throttle, watch engine movement. Now repeat, but with trans in reverse.
Personally, I would replace both engine mounts. Most likely the loss of the trans mount placed more stress on engine mounts.
Have observer watch engine from the side, or if by yourself, see if you can look between the hood & cowl at the top of the engine.
Start engine, apply brake & hold, place in drive, apply small amount of throttle, watch engine movement. Now repeat, but with trans in reverse.
Personally, I would replace both engine mounts. Most likely the loss of the trans mount placed more stress on engine mounts.
Engine movement was the same in both directions. Went out for drive and now it make it to 15-16 lbs of boost before any issues. I let off the gas once i saw some detonation. It showed 11 ° of retard when I let off. This is big improvement from the 12 lbs of boost with 20°. Motor mounts are next on the list . Just wish the were not so expensive at 250.00 for the good ones.
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2010
Go with a h&r drivers side mount and a stock replacement pass side, along with the transmission mount...Mike
Ok guys reviving an old post AND i am Ready to throw in towel here. So finally installed both HR poly motor mounts and tranny mounts. Put the best in and don't do it again. Drivers mount was cracked and was very loose. Now things are worse than they were before. Boost launch with 2-3 lbs and it cam up with 52 ESC counts and 20 degrees of RTD in one frame using the old turbo link. ARG!!!!!! O2 are at 800. boost at 15 to 16. 91 octane. New plugs, new wires. As i stated in the previous post the knock detector still goes off when shifting through gears at 0 mph. I thought for sure the mounts would take care of this. Since I had the turbo tweak chip I tried backing down the timing by about 4° but this didn't help either. SAME BS... I was going too try and fill up with some 110 octane even if it is leaded but the local store does not carry it any more. Could this be something like u joints, stock Upper or lower control arms, something inside the tranny???? For now its just a car show queen. God it would be fun to get on this thing like the old days and have some fun once in a while.
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
I forget did you turn the boost down to 12 or 13 and see if knock retard goes away?
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
You should verify your spark timing. Maybe your crank sensor wheel slipped or is wrong. Post #21 on this link.
http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/verifying-ignition-timing.377617/page-2
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
You should verify your spark timing. Maybe your crank sensor wheel slipped or is wrong. Post #21 on this link.
http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/verifying-ignition-timing.377617/page-2
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
I know this is a long shot but I noticed you had a torque strap tied to the accessory bracket. That is a no-no. I had a customer with a false knock problem. Turned out the torque strap had loosened the accessory bracket and it was rattling causing false knock. Remove the torque strap, take the serpentine belt off and see if you can rock the accessory bracket back and forth. I actually took a video of the loose bracket caused by the torque strap. If you have the HR mounts you don't need the torque strap anyway.
torque strap is gone with the new mounts but I will definitely check the accessory brackets. As far as checking the spark timing, I like the thought and read the post but I would need some pics or better details. Thanks for the ideas. I will be trying the high octane fuel in the next few days, so i will see how that goes.
put in some 110 for testing. Octane should be around 104 with what was left in the tank. Enter a on ramp to the highway and while in third gear I hit 16 lbs of boost with no knock issues at about 1/2 throttle. The wife is with so on a side road I tell her its time to try a boost launch. Launch out of the hole and once it hits second there is lots of knock. Didn't have the scan tool hooked up at the time but reminded me of before. I get back and pop the hood to look for any thing making any noise. I can hear a very faint grinding noise. I push on the turbo shield or intercooler pipe and the noise would go away. After a few minutes of investigation I found that the small square bar that goes from the passengers side manifold to just under where the turbo is for support is broken just under the turbo. Not sure if this is the issue but i was thinking an exhaust shop could weld while on the car. It could be that under the higher RPM's and more shock to stuff on launch its vibrating more.
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