Fbody radiator do I need dual fans??
- Thread starter Brocks GN
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
It all depends on the size of your front mount. I have an RJC so yes need duals big time, the pte etc. don't cover the entire rad so you shouldn't need it.
Otherwise the stock fan will do.
I also had to make sure that my rubber shourding was in place as well as well the dual fans on High all the time. IMO I didn't need as big as intercooler as I got. I run now on the Highway around 175 on fairly hot days and Idling around town 165. After a pass I hit 185-190 but comes down quick in the stage lane.
HTH
Otherwise the stock fan will do.
I also had to make sure that my rubber shourding was in place as well as well the dual fans on High all the time. IMO I didn't need as big as intercooler as I got. I run now on the Highway around 175 on fairly hot days and Idling around town 165. After a pass I hit 185-190 but comes down quick in the stage lane.
HTH
Dreamcar86
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2006
Mine works fine with the factory fan however I do not live in Florida. During July and August we had 98 degree days and my temps never went over 194 and yes that is town driving. On the highway it drops to 180's.
I dont have a front mount so its obviously not the same, but in all the seasons except summer, I run at 160 all the time. In bumper to bumper traffic, it'll hit about 168. In the summer, it'll usually run around 170, and 180 in traffic. Some people like to put a jumper across the resistor fan, so the high/low speed feature is eliminated and its just high speed all the time, but I didnt like the idea of pushing a 20 year old fan at full tilt all the time. I got a 50 watt 1 ohm resistor and used that as a jumper. If I bypass it completely and have it spinning at full speed, the fan starts doing some weird harmonics from the balance not being perfect, so I just wanted to slow it down a bit. Its important that you clean all that old hardened up dielectric grease out of the pins and sockets with the fan relays. Its a pain to do but worth it. My fan worked SO much better than before after doing that. Another tip is to pop out the factory threaded clips that hold the shroud mounting screws, use regular nuts and bolts to mount it, and attach the shroud on the inside of the mounting brackets instead of the outside of them...Im not sure if it came from the factory, mounted to the outside, but mine was. This gets the fan/shroud assembly closer to the radiator, but not completely butted up against it, which I found made it run hotter. But where I mounted it, on the inside of the brackets, seemed to be a sweet spot, and it helped cooling.
Lets go back to the beginning...Why are you buying an f-body RAD? Are you running hot.? Something to do?? If your changing to a better rad then ..what ever.. You have better cooling.!If you don't have the money! , why are you changing to a diff. rad? Free? FINE! you won't need to change fans till you get a Great big Fat Intercooler!! THANKS ALL. Lets keep it simple//KISS! DEPENDING on the size of the intercooler, yes you will probably need bigger fans! Once You can afford it!...
The only reason I would not get the dual fan setup is my money is tight right now, and Iam a bit weary on buying the fans and having them crap out in a year or two. Plus it's not that hard to change fans
Then don't worry about it 'cause you will need a whole lot bigger bucks later!!If your stock fan is performing properly, you will not need dual fans. Install the new radiator and watch your temps, then go from there.
FWIW, I was having mild cooling issues (temps would creep up over 220 hot day in FL with AC on). I put in the Fbody radiator and it helped some, but the real problem was that my stock fan was crapping out slowly.
FWIW, I was having mild cooling issues (temps would creep up over 220 hot day in FL with AC on). I put in the Fbody radiator and it helped some, but the real problem was that my stock fan was crapping out slowly.
Did you check the connection at the relays?...the dried out dielectric grease clogging all the sockets and coating the pins and killing the connection? My fan was spinning at maybe 500rpm when I got my car. It was overheating all the time. After cleaning all that crap out at the relays and making it a solid, clean connection, my fan spun like a champ. Did you also burp the system when you swapped radiators? Theres no reason for your engine to run that hot even with a fan crapping out. I can drive 33 miles all the way home without my fan even turning on. Its set to turn on at 175, and it never gets there.
waddell87- whats with the hostility?
I'm certain the stocker was on it's last leg. We're talking over 175k miles. When I bought the dual fans, I took the stocker out to test fit the new fans. I set the stock fan flat on the bench. When I re-installed, it would no longer work at all. The "test-fit" day turned into a "need to install now day". The duals kept temps down usung the factory relays untouched.
BTW, If your temp stays below 175 on a 95 degree day in FL standing in traffic with AC on high with no fans, then you have access to some miracle technology.
If you think Florida has bad traffic, then I invite you to southern california. The fans do come on, but it doesnt go above 180 in summer traffic. In the cooler seasons, I can sit in traffic with it never going above 168 and the fan never coming on. If the gap between the shroud and the radiator is too big, then the fans are absolutely doing you no good. They arent moving any air through the fins.I'm certain the stocker was on it's last leg. We're talking over 175k miles. When I bought the dual fans, I took the stocker out to test fit the new fans. I set the stock fan flat on the bench. When I re-installed, it would no longer work at all. The "test-fit" day turned into a "need to install now day". The duals kept temps down usung the factory relays untouched.
BTW, If your temp stays below 175 on a 95 degree day in FL standing in traffic with AC on high with no fans, then you have access to some miracle technology.
vacuum 6
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2006
If you mount the shroud on the inner side of the mounting brackets instead of the outside, the gap will be just about right. If you have no gap, then the fans have to work really hard and have a hard time maintaining rpm, and thereby dont have enough flow to pull air through the fins. At least thats what I found. I tried no gap and the temps shot up about 20 degrees all around. With the shroud mounted on the outside of the brackets like stock, it ran about 10 degrees hotter than with it mounted on the inner side.
Project TNX
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2006
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Does the Fbody radiator have all the same connections as the Gbody radiator? Is there a noticable visual difference? And lastly, what year F-body?
Thanks
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Does the Fbody radiator have all the same connections as the Gbody radiator? Is there a noticable visual difference? And lastly, what year F-body?
Thanks
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