boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

[QUIP'6']

Can you make two recordings. One with sputtering and one without. Then lets compare both.

Wonder if the engine moving around could be an issue. As if you roll into it there is no problem.

I have seen stupid stuff like loose connections on the starter cuasing issue with the fusible links, I have seen the loom that wraps around the drivers valvecover rub on the transmission neutral safety arm and short out the 12v line. I mention this becuase I see you have aftermarket valve covers.

i have to wait till full throttle sends me my powerlogger. as for the roll in no problem. i can only do it in third if i try in second or first it still does it. i will try to look at the wires and see if any thing is loose

 

[TurboJoe3.8]

ttt

C'mon Buick guru's- Brian needs some help!

 

[Darkcyde]

cut the pic from the sig and people wont get to dizzy to post, just a thought

 

[QUIP'6']

cut the pic from the sig and people wont get to dizzy to post, just a thought

if you cant help dont post. i am fuc$ing pulling my hair out and you got to make a sarcastic comment. dont waste my time

 

[Darkcyde]

if you cant help dont post. i am fuc$ing pulling my hair out and you got to make a sarcastic comment. dont waste my time

excuse me princess, way to reply to 'just a thought'. maybe your hair is stuck up your maf pipe, might want to check that and your rear seal.

 

[ttypewhite]

Without having read 5 pages of stuff, let me through some stuff out there.

1) ignition module and coil pack
2) bad spark plug wires
3) TPsensor is out and your not getting proper voltage at WOT (check with volt meter)
4) valve springs (did you check the pressure at the seat & open on the springs? if so, what is it?)
5) whats your vaccum at idle? possible intake leak behind the motor
6) was the heads surface milled? might effect your dowel pins by bottoming out before the head is properly sealed. A simple check is to jack up the car, go underneath and look at the head gasket material hanging outside the block. If you side carbon marks blowing out from the gasket, the head is not sealed.
7) check your grounds
8) voltage????
9) how do your plugs look?
10) dirty injector or fuel filter?

 

[QUIP'6']

Without having read 5 pages of stuff, let me through some stuff out there.

1) ignition module and coil pack
2) bad spark plug wires
3) TPsensor is out and your not getting proper voltage at WOT (check with volt meter)
4) valve springs (did you check the pressure at the seat & open on the springs? if so, what is it?)
5) whats your vaccum at idle? possible intake leak behind the motor
6) was the heads surface milled? might effect your dowel pins by bottoming out before the head is properly sealed. A simple check is to jack up the car, go underneath and look at the head gasket material hanging outside the block. If you side carbon marks blowing out from the gasket, the head is not sealed.
7) check your grounds
8) voltage????
9) how do your plugs look?
10) dirty injector or fuel filter?

1 changed coil pack and module no change
2. put brand new msd wires on no change
3. tps on powerlogger showed proper voltage
4. valves springs were just changed when i had the heads done last month. plus i got it to pull hard all the way thru third.
5. vacuum at idle is 18
6. i am not sure about the head millage. will check that.
7. grounds are good but will double check
8. 13.6 voltage
9. plugs look white with a slight tan color
10. new flow matched injectors. fuel filter 2 yrs old but have a new tank and pump.
i do have a powerlogger file a few posts up if you have it load it and see what you think. thanks for the help and i will take your advise on the things i havent checked.

 

[meanchicken]

5) whats your vaccum at idle? possible intake leak behind the motor
6) was the heads surface milled? QUOTE]


Just a quick comment from a spectator...
A wise old Turbo Buick guru once told me that when the heads have been milled, and block decked, etc. sometimes it's necessary to do a little milling on the intake also to get it to seat and seal properly...at least that's what I think he said
Just a thought.

 

[QUIP'6']

5) whats your vaccum at idle? possible intake leak behind the motor
6) was the heads surface milled? QUOTE]


Just a quick comment from a spectator...
A wise old Turbo Buick guru once told me that when the heads have been milled, and block decked, etc. sometimes it's necessary to do a little milling on the intake also to get it to seat and seal properly...at least that's what I think he said
Just a thought.

18 inches of vacuum at idle heads were cleaned up and the intake was cut before. and blm's are 131

 

[Jerryl]

Well, I am going to get off the beaten path, and show my ignorance, but I am going to ask/suggest anyway .
Afteral, Without reading all of it, I think you already changed and tried everything else.

How are the ECM wire connectors?
Can you try another ECM?
What about the crank sensor?

 

[QUIP'6']

Well, I am going to get off the beaten path, and show my ignorance, but I am going to ask/suggest anyway .
Afteral, Without reading all of it, I think you already changed and tried everything else.

How are the ECM wire connectors?
Can you try another ECM?
What about the crank sensor?

great shape as far as connectors pins are fine. i did try another ecm when i did the powerlogger runs and the crank sensor was changes twice. thank you though.

 

[QUIP'6']

does anyone think i could have a wategate problem since the boost gauge is fluttering. because if i nail it in third it sputters and the gauge flutters but if i let off a 1/4 inch it clears up and stays clear even if i push the pedal back down

 

[aminga]

Can you make two recordings. One with sputtering and one without. Then lets compare both.

Wonder if the engine moving around could be an issue. As if you roll into it there is no problem.

I have seen stupid stuff like loose connections on the starter cuasing issue with the fusible links, I have seen the loom that wraps around the drivers valvecover rub on the transmission neutral safety arm and short out the 12v line. I mention this becuase I see you have aftermarket valve covers.

Julio you may be on to something here. Look at the KR when the surging starts. Something is banging around there.

I had a problem with my MAF wigging out on me but it was a remaned stock MAF and I wasn't really moving enough air to peg it. Switching to a translator and turning the base to 10% rich cured my ugly maf traces but I wasn't surging

 

[QUIP'6']

Julio you may be on to something here. Look at the KR when the surging starts. Something is banging around there.

I had a problem with my MAF wigging out on me but it was a remaned stock MAF and I wasn't really moving enough air to peg it. Switching to a translator and turning the base to 10% rich cured my ugly maf traces but I wasn't surging

yes the knock is from the motor bouncing around when it is sputtering. o2's are mid 800's so it is rich and the maf is droping and spiking because of the surge pushing air back out of the turbo back thru the maf. i put the stock maf back on with no wot change from the ls1

 

[gczarny]

yes the knock is from the motor bouncing around when it is sputtering. o2's are mid 800's so it is rich and the maf is droping and spiking because of the surge pushing air back out of the turbo back thru the maf. i put the stock maf back on with no wot change from the ls1

just got into this post ,maybe it was already mentioned on other 4 pages that I did not read in details but..... what cam sensor /cap you are using ?

 

[QUIP'6']

just got into this post ,maybe it was already mentioned on other 4 pages that I did not read in details but..... what cam sensor /cap you are using ?

new gm replacement 4 yrs old

 

[gczarny]

new gm replacement 4 yrs old

did you have cam sensor out while doing head swap ? could it be off 180 deg.? .......I had my car doing something like that 3 times , once it was spark issue , gapping Autolites to 25 fixed that but that was only boost related ,the other two times had nothing to do with boost , once it was crank sensor over some rpm /hot car would fall on it's face but the time it would sputter bad and nose dive it was cam sensor cap issue ,it was however caspers cap not GM , still I would recheck cam sensor .

 

[QUIP'6']

did you have cam sensor out while doing head swap ? could it be off 180 deg.? .......I had my car doing something like that 3 times , once it was spark issue , gapping Autolites to 25 fixed that but that was only boost related ,the other two times had nothing to do with boost , once it was crank sensor over some rpm /hot car would fall on it's face but the time it would sputter bad and nose dive it was cam sensor cap issue ,it was however caspers cap not GM , still I would recheck cam sensor .

never touched cam sensor when doing swap. when you say cap issue what do you mean

 

[gczarny]

never touched cam sensor when doing swap. when you say cap issue what do you mean

in my case it was caspers adjusteable cam sensor cap with little red diode causing bad sputtering under heavy load , no problem at idle or normal driving , they send me new one but it was also doing that little less but still doing it ,I thought at first it was ign. module since I swaped to type II at the same time but it was cam sensor causing this whole problem ,I would try another cap and make sure the rotor on the drive is not getting loose , they like to get loose even brake little tab and spin around on some roller cams , mostly billet roller cams , good luck

 

[TurboMonte 2]

When posting the 2nd (or 22nd) time, all it takes is a simple click of your mouse (under Miscellaneous Options--eliminate check in box on "Show Signature") to NOT include all "signature stuff", taking up mucho space in the thread... No sarcasm, just fact--simple & logical...