boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

problem somewhat fixed. put on stock maf and it cured my erratic idle. idles perfect now. now it is not sputtering as bad at wot and it isnt nosing over just sputtering a little. it sputters then pulls hard then shifts and pulls then sputters and then 3rd
 
Very surprised others did not chime in but......

glad to see you finally nailed it. :cool: That was the first thing that jumped out on the log (maf stream) but the low spikes did not start till after the power started dropping off. Or so it did seem. It was hard to say for sure but was definitely something to go on. Great Job!


Now, did you try the hot wire on the translator b4 you switched? You may be able to fix that problem with a simple relay.
 
glad to see you finally nailed it. :cool: That was the first thing that jumped out on the log (maf stream) but the low spikes did not start till after the power started dropping off. Or so it did seem. It was hard to say for sure but was definitely something to go on. Great Job!


Now, did you try the hot wire on the translator b4 you switched? You may be able to fix that problem with a simple relay.

did not hotwire it. i still have the sputtering issue just not real bad. what is the next step.
 
The pink and black wire on the maf plug feeds the translator with 12v. Break that circut and tie a hot wire from the alternator to end going to the translator. If it ends up working, you need to install a relay to make a permanant fix.
 
Back to square one. Reset computer, look at BL's, make sure fuel pressure sis setup correctly based on BL's, switch the alky kit off and see if it runs clean at low boost. Like 15 PSI.

If so, then switch alky kit on and should run a tad richer at 15 PSI.

Dont know about the injector DC. Contact Eric on that. But adding boost should lean it out which should make the conditions better.
 
The pink and black wire on the maf plug feeds the translator with 12v. Break that circut and tie a hot wire from the alternator to end going to the translator. If it ends up working, you need to install a relay to make a permanant fix.
thanks but i am going to run the stock maf from now on

Back to square one. Reset computer, look at BL's, make sure fuel pressure sis setup correctly based on BL's, switch the alky kit off and see if it runs clean at low boost. Like 15 PSI.

If so, then switch alky kit on and should run a tad richer at 15 PSI.

Dont know about the injector DC. Contact Eric on that. But adding boost should lean it out which should make the conditions better.
will try with low boost and alky off. thank you

Any PL files with the stock MAF on the car?


K.

no going to order one on sunday.
 
took it out tonight brought boost to 15 turned off alky and it sputtered at 4600 and full boost shifted to second sputtered at full boost and 4600 then shifted to 3rd then kept it floored through 3rd and the boost dropped and rpm dropped like the car shut off and it came back to life after i lifted a 1/4 inch of pedal stayed smooth until i floored the pedal then sputtered again. could not get a full run.
 
Now that you are back to running a stock maf, throw it into batch fire (limp mode) and see if it clears it up. You know how to do that. Right?
 
Yes, to put in batch fire, unplug the cam sensor while it's running. Go for a short ride and see.

Fuel filter or pump sure could be a possibility. Do you have a gauge that you can put up by the windshield? What are the o2's doing? Where is that log? Are you still seeing spikes in the maf stream?

I was being sarcastic when asking how much for the stuff. You really should hold on to it till you figure out the problem here. It's really much better than the stocker.
 
Yes, to put in batch fire, unplug the cam sensor while it's running. Go for a short ride and see.

Fuel filter or pump sure could be a possibility. Do you have a gauge that you can put up by the windshield? What are the o2's doing? Where is that log? Are you still seeing spikes in the maf stream?

I was being sarcastic when asking how much for the stuff. You really should hold on to it till you figure out the problem here. It's really much better than the stocker.

ordered a powerlogger lastnite. going with a plx wideband and a 6.0 chip. as far as the pump yes i have a gauge 24/7 on my cowl to see fuel pressure and at 42 line off it is 60 at wot with 17 pounds of boost and stays there the hole run. as far as the maf my car likes the stocker. when i am in third gear and floored after going thru first and second the car noses over and dies untill i lift the pedal a 1/4 inch then it comes to life and pulls hard then if i push it down all the way again it dies out again. my 02's are 820
 
ordered a powerlogger lastnite. going with a plx wideband and a 6.0 chip. as far as the pump yes i have a gauge 24/7 on my cowl to see fuel pressure and at 42 line off it is 60 at wot with 17 pounds of boost and stays there the hole run. as far as the maf my car likes the stocker. when i am in third gear and floored after going thru first and second the car noses over and dies untill i lift the pedal a 1/4 inch then it comes to life and pulls hard then if i push it down all the way again it dies out again. my 02's are 820


Did you swap out the coilpack/ignition module again?

O2's at 820 is fine. Shouldnt pop or sputter at 820. Sounds electrical... you can check AF on the scanmaster should go 254/255 and stay there at 16 PSI.
 
Did you swap out the coilpack/ignition module again?

O2's at 820 is fine. Shouldnt pop or sputter at 820. Sounds electrical... you can check AF on the scanmaster should go 254/255 and stay there at 16 PSI.
didnt swap out coil pack again and yes the maf does go to 255 but on the powerlogger it showed a spikes up and don wants it hit 255. tonight when in 3rd gear if i go 3/4 throttle for a while then nail it it will pull all the way thru but if i just mash it in third and hold it it just sputters
 
Can you make two recordings. One with sputtering and one without. Then lets compare both.

Wonder if the engine moving around could be an issue. As if you roll into it there is no problem.

I have seen stupid stuff like loose connections on the starter cuasing issue with the fusible links, I have seen the loom that wraps around the drivers valvecover rub on the transmission neutral safety arm and short out the 12v line. I mention this becuase I see you have aftermarket valve covers.
 
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