boost flutter at wot along with sputtering

[meanchicken]

tried coil pak, module and wires and it doesnt stall but it still sputters under hard quick wot runs. i guess it is either cam or valve springs. i still think i hurt the springs from over reving by not knowing it was in second and ran it to 7,000 rpm. because after that it started to run like ****

I don't think one over rev would kill your springs, but....Possibly you floated and slightly tweaked a couple valves....?

Have you checked the rocker shafts and rockers for any cracks or tweakage?

I used RJC shaft strpas on my rcker shafts as a safe guarde against these shafts known occasional breakage under heavy loads.

 

[QUIP'6']

I don't think one over rev would kill your springs, but....Possibly you floated and slightly tweaked a couple valves....?

Have you checked the rocker shafts and rockers for any cracks or tweakage?

I used RJC shaft strpas on my rcker shafts as a safe guarde against these shafts known occasional breakage under heavy loads.

no havent checked the valve i wish i did before because i had the heads off thinking i blew a headgasket. i notice the car doesnt have the power and revving capabilities as when i first put these heads on. then when i over reved it it was down on power and sputtering. i had it revving for a good 5 seconds or more before i realized the shifter was in second

 

[meanchicken]

no havent checked the valve i wish i did before because i had the heads off thinking i blew a headgasket. i notice the car doesnt have the power and revving capabilities as when i first put these heads on. then when i over reved it it was down on power and sputtering. i had it revving for a good 5 seconds or more before i realized the shifter was in second

A proper leak down test should confirm and isolate any suspected valve train or bottom end damage....

 

[QUIP'6']

A proper leak down test should confirm and isolate any suspected valve train or bottom end damage....

thanks

 

[QUIP'6']

well today i went and put street tires on because drag radials were bald so i turned boost to 15 and timing to 20/18 and shut off alky. the car runs AWESOME still has a slight sputter top of first but cant hardly tell. o2's in low 800's all 3 gears. wonder if i have less strain on valve train "springs" does still seem to drop of power at the top of each gear but not alot like before. man i tell you even with bald drag radials they still bit because these new street tire will break loose at 60 mph at 15 pounds of boost in third gear

 

[QUIP'6']

well it started acting up even with the low boost. it does it then it doesnt. i dont think it is valve springs because something mechanical will always be consistant. i am stumped because i checked everything

 

[Clark6]

quip , what ratio rockers do you have? length pushrods? are they the stock ones? Im sorry to say and i could be wrong, but if it was me, (you have nothing but time).. If your crank snout,key or the crank disc for the crank sensor is ok. and youre positive about the cam , cam sensor and all, Id just put the old original, heads back on IF you still have them and go from there and be done with it.

This problem( which you've had for months) would eat me up, so i know its eating you up. But once youve exhausted all possiblities im just sayin i'd pull the heads, if that dont work then the motor. Hey its all in a days work...:tongue:

 

[QUIP'6']

quip , what ratio rockers do you have? length pushrods? are they the stock ones? Im sorry to say and i could be wrong, but if it was me, (you have nothing but time).. If your crank snout,key or the crank disc for the crank sensor is ok. and youre positive about the cam , cam sensor and all, Id just put the old original, heads back on IF you still have them and go from there and be done with it.

This problem( which you've had for months) would eat me up, so i know its eating you up. But once youve exhausted all possiblities im just sayin i'd pull the heads, if that dont work then the motor. Hey its all in a days work...:tongue:

thanks for replying i thought this thread was dead!!! i am down to putting the stock heads back on. they only have 1000 miles on them. thanks

 

[yullose]

I don't know how you've kept your sanity this long.

My problems lasted 2 weeks and it drove me bat$hit crazy.

 

[yullose]

tried coil pak, module and wires and it doesnt stall but it still sputters under hard quick wot runs. i guess it is either cam or valve springs. i still think i hurt the springs from over reving by not knowing it was in second and ran it to 7,000 rpm. because after that it started to run like ****

Holy carp... how did I miss that remark ?

You are lucky it still has all the rods in the oil pan.

You probably floated and bent valves...

Where is Aliquippa PA ?

Bring it down to Reading if you need a hand with it. I have a truck and trailer too if needed.

Edit to add:
Oh hell... nevermind. lol you are at the opposite end of the state.

 

[QUIP'6']

Holy carp... how did I miss that remark ?

You are lucky it still has all the rods in the oil pan.

You probably floated and bent valves...

Where is Aliquippa PA ?

Bring it down to Reading if you need a hand with it. I have a truck and trailer too if needed.

Edit to add:
Oh hell... nevermind. lol you are at the opposite end of the state.

thanks for the offer on help. was your car consistant of sputtering could you ever get a clean run. sometimes my car doesnt do it but most times it does

 

[QUIP'6']

i think i may have stumbled upon something here!!!! i took the car out tonite and it stalled on me 3 times while driving. well before that it would sputter at the top of gears and then after a while it would sputter just pulling out or getting on the gas a little bit like half pedal while cruising. then it would stall after that while cruising. well when i pull over and try to start it it wouldnt start!!!! now i am pissed and so i start jiggling wires and then it would start and i would go a couple miles and it would stall. i did this 3 times till i got it home. with the car running i cant get it to stall in park so i dissconnect the maf and the cars idle smooths out. then i go in the car and put it in gear with the maf plug off and try to spool the turbo and it spooled up to 15 psi with no maf plugged in. why would this be. shouldnt it died out

 

[aminga]

i think i may have stumbled upon something here!!!! i took the car out tonite and it stalled on me 3 times while driving. well before that it would sputter at the top of gears and then after a while it would sputter just pulling out or getting on the gas a little bit like half pedal while cruising. then it would stall after that while cruising. well when i pull over and try to start it it wouldnt start!!!! now i am pissed and so i start jiggling wires and then it would start and i would go a couple miles and it would stall. i did this 3 times till i got it home. with the car running i cant get it to stall in park so i dissconnect the maf and the cars idle smooths out. then i go in the car and put it in gear with the maf plug off and try to spool the turbo and it spooled up to 15 psi with no maf plugged in. why would this be. shouldnt it died out

Maf may be bad. The ECM will only code if it's disconnected. If it's connected but giving bad Airflow data it'll run like crap. Disconnecting it puts it in limp home mode and disregards the MAF data.

 

[QUIP'6']

Maf may be bad. The ECM will only code if it's disconnected. If it's connected but giving bad Airflow data it'll run like crap. Disconnecting it puts it in limp home mode and disregards the MAF data.

then why do people say that if you dissconnect the cam sensor and if it quits stumbling then there is your problem. well i assumed it is the same with the maf

 

[aminga]

then why do people say that if you dissconnect the cam sensor and if it quits stumbling then there is your problem. well i assumed it is the same with the maf

It is the same. When the MAF is disconnected it goes off of the limp home data.

 

[knperformance]

Brian, we had a car in the shop that would die when you put it gear and gave it gas. Turned out to be the MAF ground wire was broken some where in the main harness, we attached another ground wire to the MAF to bypass the broken circuit and fixed the problem.

 

[QUIP'6']

Brian, we had a car in the shop that would die when you put it gear and gave it gas. Turned out to be the MAF ground wire was broken some where in the main harness, we attached another ground wire to the MAF to bypass the broken circuit and fixed the problem.

hey khai the car drives great except wot and after driving a while it sputters down low then it starts to stall and wont start. something is getting hot

 

[Black Power]

Any updates? My car has very similar symptoms and it's driving me insane. I am about 2 inches away from pulling the 4.1 out and tossing it in a lake.

 

[QUIP'6']

Any updates? My car has very similar symptoms and it's driving me insane. I am about 2 inches away from pulling the 4.1 out and tossing it in a lake.

no still running like crap!!!! pulling motor and going roller also going over every wire under the hood. what is your car doing?

 

[Beamer]

Last year when I ran at Reynolds, I noticed that my boost was fluctuating a lot and just not pulling like it should have. I was fighting some popping also occassionally through the intake. I performed compression and leak down tests and they looked good. I finaly said WTF, and went to a roller system. When we got my cam out, I had 2 worn lobes by appearance at least. The #3 intake and another. After my roller system was in and everything was back together, my boost does not fluctuate anymore and the car pulls like a mule. My sig says enough, a 10.81 with a little ole PT54 turbo.

Good luck and keep us posted.